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The forced air induction\more fuel thread...

vdb11 said:
I have heard alot about those blankets, I wonder if I could find a reasonable one for the VGT, I know they have cheapy ones on the big site, I wonder if anyone has tried one.

Tim, what does that sensor plug into? What is a DMM? Remember I have no sensors at all from the factory and I am running an aftermarket upper intake, which is why I was just looking for a simple gauge with its own mechanical or electric sender. That Omega site is pretty cool.

I will keep an eye out for cheap pipe, I might shop around this week if I get time. Thanks Tim.
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check on the bay for a blanket... needs to be a t-4 size... had one for the vgt that burned, very good quality, and good price... think it was $ 75.00 to our door shipped it was... go on the bay for your pipe, check mandrel bending solutions for aluminized steel pipe... comes in u-bends good price too
 
DMM = digital multi meter, and sensor plugs to it, the module converts temperature to a mV signal which is displayed as a temperature on the meters read out.

Hopefully I finish the job I'm on tonight and I'll take pictures of one I have so you have an idea of what I'm talking about
 
OK Tim I would surely appreciate a picture. I was looking at that Omega site and I saw where I could build my own J-type thermocouple, but was having trouble figuring out what that would plug into. The meters and displays are very pricey on that site.

And turbonator I will check that out, I would imagine a blanket might even lower IATs a bit maybe?? I guess thats another thing I could test. I will check for that tubing too.

I would love to have something that could display all sorts of things on like a little screen, like what Bullydog makes, but boy are they expensive. Right now I just have gauges all over the place. I would also like to mount them all above the dash but that would be quite the project too.

Also Tim one more thing, that temp sensor you showed me, does the end with the red and black tips plug into the DMM? If so does the wire on the other end connect to a thermocouple?

Thanks again!
 
So I have been doing some research and from what I have found (mostly internet forum stuff) a tranny temp gauge or a water temp gauge (electrical) will work???

Also, would it be possible to just buy a GM IAT sensor for the 6.5, and then use some type of electrical temp gauge? I have seen though that different gauges use different scales in terms of volts to a temp reading. Could I plug in my factory coolant wire? I am not using the one in my dash and the sensor takes the same plug. However, the reason I am not using the gauge in the dash is because it wasn't accurate with the water temps.
 
If the plug is the same, with the same two wires, does the PCM read the IAT signal just like a gauge would?
 
What kind of probes do those have Tim?

I have a multimeter with a temperature probe, but it is just two wires (I think) with little balls on the end, no real "probe" to it, are these designed to take air temp as well? I guess I should test mine.

Also, another question for ya, what would cause the coolant gauge in the dash to be wrong other than the sender? Mine never showed more than about 165, and I had replaced the sender in the head once before with no change. So right now I am running a cheap mechanical water temp gauge which is accurate. I plan to keep it this way since its easier to read. But I would like to get the one in the dash fixed so I can try plugging an IAT sensor into it.
 
I've read some members take the dash apart and hold the gauge shaft still and rotate the needle to the proper reading.
 
oh ha ok, I had a feeling it was in the dash but I was not sure.

That sounds like a bit of a project haha, but it would be nice to get the darn thing working again.
 
vdb11 said:
What kind of probes do those have Tim?

I have a multimeter with a temperature probe, but it is just two wires (I think) with little balls on the end, no real "probe" to it, are these designed to take air temp as well? I guess I should test mine.

Also, another question for ya, what would cause the coolant gauge in the dash to be wrong other than the sender? Mine never showed more than about 165, and I had replaced the sender in the head once before with no change. So right now I am running a cheap mechanical water temp gauge which is accurate. I plan to keep it this way since its easier to read. But I would like to get the one in the dash fixed so I can try plugging an IAT sensor into it.
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The 2 wire with ball tip is a K type thermocouple same as what your EGT uses but without the well,& will work for IAT as well or any other temp, where is the sender you are working with? later models have 2 one for PCM and other for the dash check pins on sender resistance cold & hot see if it changes in resistance ?
 
ECT range 100,000 ohm @ -40F & 70 ohm at full scale 266F and modifies the 5v signal the PCM sends, since you are tron free now possibly you aren't getting the 5v ? and may have to go with a mechanical temp sender
 
Looking in my 90 GM service manual which would be closer to your 92 looks like the ECT sensor gets 12v @ ignition which gets modified via the ECT sensor that makes the gauge change so ignore previous as it pertains to "more modern" PCMs
 
Looking further for the 1990 6.2 Diesel which should be close to yours I think, 1400 ohm is cold and 55 ohm for hot, so if you had a decade box or individual resistors of those values into the pin with DK green wire and other to gnd should give the full cold @ 1.4K & full hot reading 55ohm with ignition on.
 
Hmm I will have to look and see what I have at home, so I can verify the sender by testing it in some hot water and seeing what kind of ohms I get? When you say hot and cold, does that correspond to the extreme values on the dash gauge? Or like 0 degrees and 260 degrees?

Thanks for checking on that for me Tim, now does the GM IAT sender use the same resistance scale?
 
vdb11 said:
Thanks Tim!

Also btw, what do you do? I never found out, but it seems as if you travel a lot.
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Field Engineer I work this stuff now http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?32087-Almost-finished also working small-medium-large steam turbines.

I was US Navy turbine tech/operator 80-86 then a field engineer/rep for factory with aero-derivatives until 2008, switched to GE Diesel locomotives in 08 as locomotive overhaul shop manager, & back to the field in March 2010 probably do this until I retire now, running a shop sux much better in the field though it does require a lot of travel.

Mostly near home these days, but back when I was working aero-derivatives I was traveling a LOT nearly 2 million air miles, I think 53 countries and over 500 different cites last time I tried to add it all up.
 
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