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The forced air induction\more fuel thread...

Wow those sound like some interesting jobs, very fulfilling I would imagine.

Thanks for the ohm values, looks as if the scale is a bit different for the IAT scale vs the ECT scale. So my option would be to like NVW said try to modify the gauge in the dash to show the correct temperature. I will take a look at the temperature sender that came with my multimeter, it might work, how would you suggest plumbing it into the intake, like a small pipe thread fitting with the wires threaded through, and then sealed off somehow?

Also, couldn't the balled end become damaged in the intake, should they be in a well like a reg thermocouple?
 
If making a permanent install yes it should be in a well, you could get a IAT sensor from the junkyard and drill tap intake for that, or possibly a 6.5 intake with the IAT bung would work, for temporary tests I slip the K probe into the rubber coupling, for IAT since I'm OBD II I use the MT2500 scan tool to read IAT for my permanent readings.

The OMEGA site I linked you to, has RTDs and thermocouples with threaded bodies in NPT you could drill/tap RTD would work as well as a thermocouple for IAT since it does not get very hot
 
Thanks for the ohm values, looks as if the scale is a bit different for the IAT scale vs the ECT scale.
I think you misread, the IAT & ECT for the 94/98 are same resistance value operating with 5vdc that gets converted to a temp/PCM input.

The ECT for the 90s ECT is a 12vdc signal that gets modified the 90 did not have a IAT sensor but extrapolating the designers logic, I assume if it had both it would have followed same conventions as the OBD-I/II does both sensors operating with same voltage, but the word assume does give me some pause I could be misreading the thought process of the design.

IAT via RTD or TC should be straight fwd, since you have 12V available modify that to the readout, OMEGAs tech line folks are generally helpful and can discuss needs for what you want to monitor.
 
Haha ok yeah I must have misread, I did take a look at that OMEGA site, and I even did go through "build your own" thermocouple, even though I didn't really know what I was doing, and it gave me a thermocouple that would cost $42, really not bad.

I think I might pursue this gm iat thing. I just need to track down a IAT sensor, and plug it into the coolant temp plug and see what happens, I just gotta think of a way to test it before I tap my upper intake.

If that doesn't work I might get in tough with omega and see what they say.

Thanks again tim
 
.6_002.jpg

here a pic of the bullet set-up..... it will set someone back a cool 1500 for used, or 3500-5000 new...

[Who makes this sick set up and where can I get one?

I think they sell it. A lot of money though and probably not much better perfromance than a turbo.

As with anything related to forced induction.There are trade offs and limitations to any system, however one thing thats hard to put a price on is cool factor. Imagine lifting the hood of your truck with a nicely detialed engine bay crowned by this jewel.
I somewhat doubt finding a complete kit for $1500 used, but I would snap one up in a heartbeat if it could be had. This would be some serious bling and a great way to top a new Optimizer 6500. Does anyone know what model Eaton blower that is in the photo?
 
It would also allow you to eliminate the crappy turbo manifold and crossover setup and go to a real Y-pipe for the exhaut. That would eliminate backpressure that could free up a lot of the horsepower lost to the belt blower and, and possibly make it more efficient. The turbo drive pressure/engine backpresure is parasitic loss that most people dont take into account. Thats how an exhaust brake works afterall, resistance to the piston on the exhaust stroke. When bumping boost way up it really becomes quite a factor.

Or some efficiency could be had from a more ideal exhaust route, like an inline cylider engine or center mount turbo system or twin turbo would be better than center.
 
there's a fair amount of diesels that have both superchargers and turbos trying for the best of both worlds on the boost side of things
 
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