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The forced air induction\more fuel thread...

Hey aces I just bought one of those, I am excited to put it on. I originally attempted a piece of plate steel with an exhaust elbow in it. Then a thicker piece of steel. I have YET to get it to stop leaking some boost, whether it be through the welds or at the joint between the custom upper and lower. I figured this will solve my problems and look much better :)

Hey about the DP, my buddy (cub124 on here) had a GM-8 on his 6.2 with a downpipe going down through where the factory 6.5 does. I believe he had it bent at a shop with 3" pipe, but I am not 100% on the size, it needed modifications. He is running the same turbo as me now with the same DP.
 
okay, here are the pics.... if you look down low, you will see the polaris heat exchanger that i modded to use as a engine oil cooler...:hihi:
 

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Does it fit better with the inlet and outlet at the top ? Are the nipples 3 inch ?
 
Does it fit better with the inlet and outlet at the top ? Are the nipples 3 inch ?
due to the shape of the intercooler (wedge shaped sort of) when the inlet/ outlets are at the bottom it contacts the grill big time, down like that it only needs the bottom lip on the grill shaved, and the marker lights trimmed.... and the outlets are 3"
 
two things...One I guess you have no a/c so that won't work for me but as far as the oil cooler, you could use an aluminum replacement Rad for an OBS truck and hook the engine oil cooler into the rad and loose the cooler altogether. I was going to do that eventually. The only issue with tat is you would have to extend the tranny lines to the drivers side. If you used the OBS oil cooler lines they are alum and cross the rad for added cooling effect.
 
Tranny cooler is already moved to the rear of the pass side of cab, lines are no big deal as most of our lines are hydraulic lines anyways. We are looking at engine oil coolers now and probably re-locate to rear of truck also. Might go the route of fan/cooler combo. The rad is a 4 core with the brass ends, its only 4yrs old, so when motor is ready, it'll go back to the rad shop for a re-fresh (full flush and re-paint). By the way, good to see you here still.....LOL.
 
I have that in the works. that filter was just put there to see how the install and turbo performs.

I'm getting a R/A hood and fabbing the box to filter when the hood gets here.

Thanks for the compliment.

OH YEA and the whistle it makes is SSWWWWEEETTTTT!!!!!!! Damn it's loud, I might have to put the tone ring back in. NOT!!!
 
I have that in the works. that filter was just put there to see how the install and turbo performs.

I'm getting a R/A hood and fabbing the box to filter when the hood gets here.

Thanks for the compliment.

OH YEA and the whistle it makes is SSWWWWEEETTTTT!!!!!!! Damn it's loud, I might have to put the tone ring back in. NOT!!!

ill give credit where credit is due anytime... it is a turning point using one of the knock-off holsets... i have been watching them since march, but have not had the money loose or there would be one here on our "new parts pile" on the living room floor... for the price, there is nothing else that compares....:thumbsup:
 
anybody ever here of the switchback turbo from blaylock turbos? seems to be another interesting version of the VGT/VNT/VVT style...

Look at the graph close.

They both have about the same back pressue but the he351 is making close to 80lbs. versus the 45 lbs. boost of the switchblade.

I thinks there might be some trickery goin on .
 
I can't sleep so I will try to document what went into this install.

The first pics are showing factory flange opening and after grinding to gasket match it. What I forgot to take a pic of was how I ground the divider to a point and cut the divider out of the gasket.

IMG_9216.jpgIMG_9221.jpgIMG_9223.jpg


These are pics of the turbine, they are bigger than my gm8, but look small in this housing.


IMG_9206.jpgIMG_9222.jpgIMG_9227.jpg



This is the compressor wheel in and out of the housing so you get an idea of the size and shape.
IMG_9201.jpgIMG_9202.jpg
 
Here is what was involved in the install.

First I cut 3/8'' to 1/2'' off the turbo [the v-band clamp], and about 1/2'' off the upper intake.

Then I had to make a 1/2'' spacer to fit between the upper and lower intake to get the same height as the turbo.

The oil feed and return lines required no mods except tapping the feed line for the GM oil line.

I did have to custom make the exhaust elbow from a 3 1/2' elbow. I cut to the shape I needed and tig welded it together.

I then welded a reducer with a v-band fitting on the bottom of the elbow so I didn't have to cut the diamond eye down pipe at all, direct fit/bolt on.

The only other exhaust mod was cutting 2'' out of the intermediate pipe and welding it back together so the over the axle pipe wouldn't hit the front side of the axle.

All in all an easy and painless upgrade that only took about 10/12 hours total time invested.

This was almost a direct bolt on turbo, if I had gone with a 3'' exh. v-band turbo it might have been easier.
 
Nice...I want to know low end performance. If I did this and used my Peninsular upper that would eliminate the need for the spacer correct ?
 
I would imagine so, I would take the measurements and have an exhaust shop bend up a 2 1/2" or 3" piece of stainless pipe to connect to the peninsular upper and just make a brace to support it to the lower intake
 
Nice...I want to know low end performance. If I did this and used my Peninsular upper that would eliminate the need for the spacer correct ?

Yes, you wouldn't have to make the spacer.

You would have to fab the intake pipe from turbo to pennisular upper.

I plan on making a custom upper when the R/A hood gets here, but wanted to do this on the cheap and as easy as possible so others with low funds or fab abilities also can do this swap if they so choose.
 
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