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The forced air induction\more fuel thread...

DO you want me to stop making comments about the posts you make? And would rather not have me suggest anything?
 
Then what was the christian comment for. I'm a christian also and don't throw that in you face.

And thanks for the advise, you're right about the gap, that was just put on for mockup to show that it lines up and doesn't sit to far foward or back.
 
You can make all the comments you want, I want to learn/share with everyone including you.

Let's just keep it civil from here forward and not dig on eachother.

I really do want to get along with you and everyone on the board. I don't want to make enemies of anyone.
 
Cause I had to talk to the pastor this morning about you, so I have gotten past it already, Dam souther Tar Heel roots won't let go.
 
robzombie4551 said:
View attachment 29479View attachment 29480View attachment 29481

Here is some pics of the start of the install.

The good is it lines up with the intake,but had to shim upper 1/4inch. I cut the V-band portion off the turbo, and had to trim 1/4 inch off the upper intake.
Although I plan on making a custom upper in the future anyways, this was for people contemplating this swap with no welding/limited fab skills.

The oil return line looks like it was made for it, no mods neccasary, and the oil feed line no mods either except tapping for GM fitting.

The bad,[if you can't fab] is the receiver dryer will have to be move 2.5inches to the right so I can utilize the 3 1/2 inch D/P fitting.

I will have to locate a receiver dryer repair kit so I can lengthen the pipe and relocate to the position I want it. If anyone knows where to get one to cut down on my search time it would be appreciated.

Otherwise i will continue to update as I progress.
Click to expand...

mmmm, new... looks awesome, hows the quality look so far? just lookin at your pics it is a sweet deal for sure.... keep up the good work...
 
robzombie4551 said:
Then what was the christian comment for. I'm a christian also and don't throw that in you face.

And thanks for the advise, you're right about the gap, that was just put on for mockup to show that it lines up and doesn't sit to far foward or back.
Click to expand...

hey now boys lets play nice... the sand box is big enough for everybody..... by the way, i love how industrial looking the W.G. holsets are....
 
turbonator said:
here is a video of a 6.2l with the detroit style blower... so it looks like it can be done....:rolleyes5:
http://butty-run.com/startup.mp4

oops the link is gone, but here is a pick...
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3905637&postcount=162

it is on the other site, and the video was off it runnung, but it is a little over the top for my likings... we are thinking eaton m-112....
Click to expand...

THANKS FOR that

I was GOING to do the belt with a COG belt but that is the basic jist of how I mocked everything up except the intake and of course I didn't use the 671 style blower with the large mounting plate, V-671 and V -92 blowers were much more compact. I might decide the v belt is more economical to make this, I just might have one one-day.
 
mmmm, new... looks awesome, hows the quality look so far?
Click to expand...

I don't see any issues that would concern me. The castings and turbine and compressor wheels look high quality.

It looks like I should have paid more, let's hope it works as good as it looks.

I guess the real test of quality will come when it's up and running.
 
Probably 90% +++ of our autoparts are out-sourced now and not manufactured in N.America. We may do some of the final prep and of course box it up to sell. The "Made in China" pieces is no different than when the Japanese started selling cars here in the 60's and 70's....everyone said junk...junk...junk. They stuck at it and replaced the "big three" as world leading auto-makers. Figure the Chinese will do the same....

But I digress also.....must be contagious.....LOL.

p.s..... very good thread, lots of info shared. We are at 3500' here, lots of good hills to do the testing and we have a dyno-days two hours away in the spring......
 
we bought and parted a 1986 3500 1 ton dually 4x4 in the spring.... heavy duty life it had, 10 ft snowplow on the front, 8ft side blade, and a 2 yard sander in the dumper box... 6.2l NA, one of the cleanest innerds i ever seed... and not one crack in the mains... still original print-o-seal head gaskets... 225000 km onner..... our block for our build for sure.... anyways, long story short, it had extra cast aluminum pulleys on it from fisher... thinkin the three extra belt will work good to spin our eaton m-112...:thumbsup:
 
turbonator said:
we bought and parted a 1986 3500 1 ton dually 4x4 in the spring.... heavy duty life it had, 10 ft snowplow on the front, 8ft side blade, and a 2 yard sander in the dumper box... 6.2l NA, one of the cleanest innerds i ever seed... and not one crack in the mains... still original print-o-seal head gaskets... 225000 km onner..... our block for our build for sure.... anyways, long story short, it had extra cast aluminum pulleys on it from fisher... thinkin the three extra belt will work good to spin our eaton m-112...:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

sounds like a good find! My motor with 101K on it had ridges in the cylinders you could catch your fingernail on and a crack in main journal #2! :(
 
rob...wouldn't you like my Peninsular upper...:rof:
Nope, aint partin with that one. It was a Bday present from a former respected 6.5 member...
I could look in the Four seasons book tommorow . I know what you are talking about but I don't think they made them for that. They made those repair kits with the compression fitting for the OBS Harrison boxes. I'll look though. I have an '06 catalog.
Silver solder on aluminum ? Please explain....We used silver solder on compressor replacements on copper but not aluminum. AFAIK the only way to weld an Aluminum a/c line is to tig it.
A steel compression fitting "might" work as that is all the repair kit was anyway.
Too bad we could not get Cumminalong in on this. I am SURE he could chime in on HX40's
 
I removed the dryer filter bracket,and simply bent it back against the firewall ,almost touching the overflow. I'll find out later if the evaporator line cracked,although it looks ok.
 
That's exactly what happened.Cracked the line and now need to repair or replace the evap., I didn't want to pull the dash to change it but looks like I might have to now.

This didn't happen while doing the turbo install, it's been like that for over a year. When I was in school I let them put a new comp/dryer/orifice in and they pinched the line near the firewall while changing the dryer.

They never told me and I didn't find it until the freon charge was low this spring.

Maybe I'll just remove the dryer and continue with the install, I just don't want the system open to get comtaminated and have to start all over.
 
rob...wouldn't you like my Peninsular upper...
Click to expand...

Yea it would be nice, but I will probably use my 6.2 lower to buid off of while I drive the burb.

could look in the Four seasons book tommorow . I know what you are talking about but I don't think they made them for that. They made those repair kits with the compression fitting for the OBS Harrison boxes. I'll look though. I have an '06 catalog.
Click to expand...

That would be great as that's exactly what I'm looking for.

They're getting harder to find because the idiots at the parts stores only know how to look up crap in the computer.

When I worked at advance or get this one Kenny,remeberMOTOMART in the 80's, that's when you could get any oddball thing you needed.
 
Kenny. Did you ever figure out what turbo was the best for your project?

Will possibly be in your neck of the woods in October, might be a chance to meet in person.
 
Slim Shady said:
Kenny. Did you ever figure out what turbo was the best for your project?

Will possibly be in your neck of the woods in October, might be a chance to meet in person.
Click to expand...
I will probably use the GM4 for now. My only issue is the way the ex flange comes off it gets ugly trying to squeeze a downpipe in. Alot of guys run the exhaust on the outside of the frame or deal with a custom made DP hitting the cab. I do not want a bodylift so I'll figure something out. The reason why the holset interested me was I was looking for the same low end grunt the GM4 has but with a more flexible ex flange angle to work with. A gm5 or higher or ATT will probably not be what I am looking for. This truck will not tow save for draggin my camper home in an emergency and I want low end out of the hole for off road use and snow plowing. To be honest I wasn't even going to screw with the turbo until spring but the exhaust system is literally one bump from falling completely off the truck and I am not spending money to fix it knowing it will be worthless on a turbo truck. I will run the race next weekend N/A and then the turboswap will begin. I will start a new thread on it when I do. In the meantime...drool boys drool...this was a gift from a former 6.5 er...wanna talk about flow....
Actually I was wonder Dennis why you never tried one of these with ATT. I wonder what effect it would have if any.
 

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