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Swapping broken 6.2 for newer 6.2

I went ahead and pulled the motor back out, switched the flywheel and everything went back together as it should.

When you say to put my IP in the exact same spot on the newer motor as it was on the older motor, is that for the timing? IIRC the timing is supposed to be set a smidgin to the right. Or are you saying if I just change the switch (the little black box thingy)?

What's the flexplate? I'm not sure if my tranny has one, isn't that for manual trannys?
 
the flexplate is what the tranny bolts to. you just switched it. a flywheel is for the clutch to sit against and weighs a whole lot more.

as for the IP put in back in the exact same place you had it on the old engine. a hair one way or the other with change the timing by a couple of degrees.
 
No I said swap the switch. I would not swap the IP. The switch should fit but it's adjustable or eccentric IIRC so you have to put it on the new IP exctly the same way it was on the old IP. I guess you could swap IP's if you want but swapping the swith is much easier. Also DO NOT USE STATING FLUID ON THIS MOTOR. When you are ready to fire it up we wil guide you. NO STARTING FLUIDS!!!!
 
I didn't know I could swap switches, I swapped the whole pump. I figured about the NO starting fluid thing because I've read some other threads in here by a few different people saying that.

To fire it up we usually crack the injector lines where they meet the injectors and crank until fuel comes out then tighten them up, is that how you do it?

Also they had some kind of red fuel (or preservative?) in the IP which I thought was odd because I've only seen blue diesel fuel.
 
RNation said:
I didn't know I could swap switches, I swapped the whole pump. I figured about the NO starting fluid thing because I've read some other threads in here by a few different people saying that.

To fire it up we usually crack the injector lines where they meet the injectors and crank until fuel comes out then tighten them up, is that how you do it?

Also they had some kind of red fuel (or preservative?) in the IP which I thought was odd because I've only seen blue diesel fuel.
Click to expand...

Yes, crack the lines at nozzles. The military AFAIK uses red off road fuel. either that or someone was running it on heating oil.Not to worry. It won't hurt it. IN fact it's better for it. When I bought my CUCV it had red fuel in it from the Municipality. Somehow they get away with running off road fuel on the Highway. The ULSD is actually very bad for the DB2. Running additive is a must. I fill a 100 gal transfer tank in my CUCV with ULSD then put in various additives , then dispense it to my trucks.
 
I don't know what ULSD is but I'm thinking it's the off road fuel? And I don't know what the DB2 is either, but I'm thinking it's the model IP I have.

My grandpa makes a bio diesel fuel. I think he uses methanol, lye, some additive, and used cooking oil (he lives in the country so I believe the used oil comes from mom pop restaurants). I'm thinking about using it at some point in time but I want to read about it first to see if the cheaper fuel is worth the long term effects (if any).
 
I personally don't believe in running WVO but that is My opinion. I'm sure others will chime in to the opposite view.
ULSD=Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel. What is sold at the Pump.
 
So the regular fuel you get at gas stations is bad for the DB2 (is that the IP)? What kind of additives do you put in the fuel?

As far as the swap goes I'm almost done, works been keeping me busy luckily. I think we have about an hour left. Just 2 tailpipe to exhaust bolts (which we can't get the nut to thread on the bolt for some reason, same nuts we took off), a double check of everything, and then bleed the air out of injector lines.
 
the regular fuel(USLD) is bad for all of them. it worse for the DB2(IP) or any other rotary head pump. the best stuff is the high sulfur version but it's only legal for off road/farm use.

standyne, powerservice or 2 stokle motor oil are the most popular. the oil has to be a certain kind but I can't remember what.

the last odds and ends are always the hardest :mad2:
 
Ok, I had it up and running after bleeding the injector lines twice and moving the IP a little. It ran for about a minute then made a knocking noise (I thought was maybe because the oil was drained so it took a bit to spread the oil around?) for a couple seconds then ran about 20 more seconds and shut off. I tried to start it a few more times with no luck. We kept moving the IP around with no luck, I think right now it's about a 1/8 inch to the driver side. We also bleed the injector lines once more with no luck there either. Maybe I need to bleed the lines a few more times to get any air pockets out? I also let the air out on the fuel filter every time we cracked the injector lines. Any ideas?

My buddy said we could try starter fluid if all else fails, I told him no. But I don't actually understand how it's bad for the motor, I just know it is because I've heard you guys say it once to me and a few times in the thread. He said his old boss did it to there old work truck and it didn't hurt it. He said he thought it could seize the motor up if you did it too much but I'm not risking anything and I know you guys know diesel motors better than my buddy.

We did a double check also, every things hooked up. The whole glow plug system is new, glow plugs, inhibitor switch and a couple other sensor things that screw into the heads towards the back. IP is newer. We have the air filter deal off and I put my hand over the intake and it had suction. So I'm not sure what else it could be but the fuel system has an air pocket somewhere. I think diesels only need air, fuel and, compression?
 
NO STARTING FLUID !!! The knocking was air. Once it starts you have to keep the RPMs up for a minute or so until it clears out. Are you getting fuel from the Inj lines ? Does the truck have mech or electric lift pump ? If it s a mech LP it can be a bitch. You may need to use a hand pump or if you have an electric fuel pump laying around hook it up just before the IP on the effluent side of the fuel filter and let it pull the fuel. Also you need good High CCA batteries. If the truck is cranking slowly it will not start. Make sure glows are staying on long enough as well. Starting fliud in a 21;1 compression motor can crack rings, piston heads, crank shaft. At a very minimun one shot of it will wipe all the glow plugs.
 
HAHA...gotcha, that's enough info for me to say hell no to the starting fluid.

We are getting fuel from the injector lines, when we cracked them I stopped when the fuel was coming out. We cracked the lines where they go into the injectors. As far as a lift pump goes, I don't know where or what it looks like. And I also don't know how to tell if it's mechanical or electric. I'm guessing the lifter pump has something to do with the fuel getting from the tank to the IP? I tried to google it for some info but all I find is for sale.

I think I have two 1000 cranking amp batteries but I'll check tomorrow for sure. They are fully charged though. I had the one sitting on slow charge all night. And when I turn the key the glow plugs were staying on for about 10 seconds maybe 15.
 
Lift pump on a 6.2 usually looks similar to a fuel pump on an old small block chevy and in similar location. If you are getting fuel at the injs it should start. remember when cranking, the accelerator needs to be to the floor. And when it starts keep it between 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for a few minutes.
 
I fired it up first thing this morning, after having one of the batteries on slow charge all night. I floored the gas like you said and it started, so I held the rpm's up for about 2 minutes but when I let go to see if it would run on it's own it died, and wouldn't start back up. The battery sounded weak also after 2 time of cranking (1 when it started then 1 after it died) so maybe I should switch out my regular alt. for the one that came with it. I don't know if it's ok to work the alt for a 24v system on a 12v system or not.
 
I also started it up when I got off of work and it started but died while I had the RPM's up after about 2 minutes. Any ideas on why that might be?
 
Well I started it again this morning. IT ran again for about 2 minutes then shutoff. Once it shuts off it won't start again till awhile later. I also noticed that about the time it shut off smog/smoke/steam (I don't know which one) came out of the intake.
 
Check your pink injection pump wire. Turn key on and pull off wire. You should hear a click. If not check for 12V at the wire. There is a connector 4-6" back from it than can be loose. You broke the fragile aged connector retainer clip I imagine so use a tie wrap to keep it together.

You have to run WOT for a bit to get the air out. I had to de-soot the toilet seat in the shop bathroom from all the smoke keeping it running WOT to get the air out.

I recommend that anyone changing these 10+ year old engines out replace both exhaust manifolds as they are $100 each on ebay and are a bittch to change later when their warpage causes them to leak. If you can even get the bolts in. Making the manifold holes bigger to fit again will result in a leak down the road. (Mine on the driver's side made it one day after making the holes larger before leaking and sooting the hell out of everything.) Don't forget lost boost etc.

The Military take out engine(s) is priced right to drop in an running engine on little budget. Head gaskets and studs held 14 PSI of boost for the 7000 miles I ran it. It ran good but heartbreaking after hitting an elk 3 weeks after dropping it in. I am thinking about dropping that military surplus engine in the current high mile and high blowby truck to fix the blowby issue...
 
Checked the pink wire for 12v with key on and it was good. I couldn't get the truck started though to check it while running but I'd assume it's the same, maybe. I didn't see a connector though, the pink wire and a green wire (green wire plugs into the 2 plugs on the IP, pink wire connects to what I think is some kind of throttle thingy) run into a wire harness with all kinds of other wires then runs to the back of motor. But I didn't see a clip.

As far as running it wide open, it will start after letting it sit a few hours with no problem then just shuts off after about 2 minutes of running. Does that sound like theres still air in the lines? If so i'll try that too.

I guess I'm screwed on the manifold part though huh? Maybe I'll just buy the ones on e-bay.
 
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