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Swapping broken 6.2 for newer 6.2

redshift96 said:
You'll need to use your old injection pump, and/or have it rebuilt (or at least checked out). I'm pretty sure the military version is 24v unit. If you do get a pump with the new motor, you can probably unload it on steel soldiers (another forum for CUCV owners) and make a few bucks back.

Likewise. you'll need to use all your original 12v accys: alt, starter, GP controller, etc. Swap in your vacuum pump if the new motor doesn't have one.

Injectors and lines should be a direct swap. Both engines will be coarse thread unless someone put '82 heads on your old motor. If your injectors have 80k+ on them, you might want to at least have them checked before reinstalling them, if not putting new ones in.

Can't recall if the fan clutch on those is the same or not. If in doubt, use your old one or replace it with a new unit of the same (civilian) style.

No other advantage to the military motor aside from lack of EGR, as far as I'm aware.
Click to expand...

That is NOT correct. You need to identify what the motor came out of first. If it came out of a CUCV , everything BUT the starter is 12v. ONly Humvee engines had 24v glows and ESO. And the ESO can be changed on truck. No need to replace IP. In fact I would leave the Mil spec one on unless there is something wrong with it.They are slightly turned up AFAIK. Motor mounts are the same. Coarse thread is pre 82 red block. 84+ will be fine thread and interchangable. The motor shoud be drop in barring whatever accessories you need. CUCV motors have a vac pump as well. It is used for the kickdown on the trans. If you have a TH700r4 then you will need the vac pump off the old motor as it has ESS in it. CUCV ones do not. I am not sure what years needed those. My 91 Jimmy had it. My 90 Burb does not but has a TH400.
It is a J code motor. No emmisions....:D
 
While you are doing all this, Lose the Mech LP too. Junk. An electric factory LP from a 93 6.5TD works very well. I used that on my Burb. Of course my CUCV has a Raptor.....:devil:
 
Acesneights1 said:
That is NOT correct. You need to identify what the motor came out of first. If it came out of a CUCV , everything BUT the starter is 12v. ONly Humvee engines had 24v glows and ESO. And the ESO can be changed on truck. No need to replace IP. In fact I would leave the Mil spec one on unless there is something wrong with it.They are slightly turned up AFAIK. Motor mounts are the same. Coarse thread is pre 82 red block. 84+ will be fine thread and interchangable. The motor shoud be drop in barring whatever accessories you need. CUCV motors have a vac pump as well. It is used for the kickdown on the trans. If you have a TH700r4 then you will need the vac pump off the old motor as it has ESS in it. CUCV ones do not. I am not sure what years needed those. My 91 Jimmy had it. My 90 Burb does not but has a TH400.
It is a J code motor. No emmisions....:D
Click to expand...


Thanks for the corrections, Aces... I said fine thread when I meant coarse. Glad you caught it.

Am I imagining that I read something about some military IPs being 24v? I coulda sworn...

You sure the TH700r4 needs vacuum? I thought they just needed the ultimate-cable-that-does-it all thingy. Or are you saying that it just needs a speed signal input? Still haven't finished the engine R&R in the new truck, so my first TH700 experience is yet to be had.
 
I'm searching google but I can't seem to find out which transmission my suburban has...all I'm seeing is th700 but nothing else after the 700 part?
 
redshift96 said:
Thanks for the corrections, Aces... I said fine thread when I meant coarse. Glad you caught it.

Am I imagining that I read something about some military IPs being 24v? I coulda sworn...

You sure the TH700r4 needs vacuum? I thought they just needed the ultimate-cable-that-does-it all thingy. Or are you saying that it just needs a speed signal input? Still haven't finished the engine R&R in the new truck, so my first TH700 experience is yet to be had.
Click to expand...

Let me clarify...
TH700R4 needs(some kinda a grey but believe 89+ )Vac pump WITH ESS
TH400 Needs Vac pump for shifting
TH700r4 uses vac for HVAC and tranny IIRC Could be off on the tranny part. Last one I owned was 10 yrs ago. I could look at my 83 Jimmy tommorow but for somereason I think the TCC is different. Perhaps Missy will chime in.
No, CUCV's are 12 volts except starter. Humvees are 24v Start, ESO and glow.
Glows very easy to tell.
Flat Spade conn=12v
Round spade=24v. If the engine has round spade glows assuming some idiot didn't put 24v in a CUCV then it's probably a 24v motor and ESO will need to be changed. Very easy to do on truck.
 
I was talking to a guy at boyces earlier and he did say that the only thing that was 24v was the starter and glow plugs. He said the motors came out of a 84 - 87 K3500 Chevy 1 ton.

Sorry for all the questions, but Aces you said if it has the 24v glow plugs I need to change the ESO? I looked ESO up in the acronyms page with no luck, so what is it?

And just to verify is there a difference between TH700R4 and TH700r4? I'm guessing not but I've got very bad luck with guessing

My tranny has the D -2 -1. Is there a TH400r though, because for some reason I vaguely remember when talking to the transmission guy a few months ago I thought he said something with an R on the end. But he didn't look at the truck, he was saying that based on me telling him the make/model/year.
 
RNation said:
I was talking to a guy at boyces earlier and he did say that the only thing that was 24v was the starter and glow plugs. He said the motors came out of a 84 - 87 K3500 Chevy 1 ton.


r.
Click to expand...

He is wrong. The glows are 12v. Look in my sig...Go to steelsoldiers to confirm. I hate it when people give wrong info.
 
Well I should get the motor sometime next week. Ended up being 1150 including delivery. I'm getting kind of excited, so I guess I'll play the waiting game now.
 
Something else I was thinking about was the cooling system. Since, from what I understand, it's a very crucial element to engine longevity and safety I think if I could make a few changes (simple and low cost) that would make the cooling system more efficient my motor would be better off. I was reading a thread in the 6.5 section and saw something about a water pump that might be better than the standard one, also I saw something about a guy named Heath and some system he had come up with. Any ideas?
 
RNation said:
Something else I was thinking about was the cooling system. Since, from what I understand, it's a very crucial element to engine longevity and safety I think if I could make a few changes (simple and low cost) that would make the cooling system more efficient my motor would be better off. I was reading a thread in the 6.5 section and saw something about a water pump that might be better than the standard one, also I saw something about a guy named Heath and some system he had come up with. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Best advice I could give you is to get the truck up and running with the stock system, then see how it does before upgrading. Chances are good that without a turbo and with a good clean radiator and fan clutch, you'll do just fine. Even on the hills. Unless you plan to start towing... and even then there are probably other pieces to upgrade first before sending Heath or Peninsular a big check.

That said, I did just order a high(er) flow water pump from Peninsular, but only because I had to buy a pump for the new motor one way or another, and the difference in cost wasn't too terrible.

But then, my motor is turbocharged, and will generate more heat than an NA unit.
 
I use mine for a work truck so I do toe a smaller trailer every day. It's a 10' enclosed utility trailer, usually filled with tools and drywall. I think it weighs around 3500 lbs, but I will pull it every day. I'm not sure though if that's enough to make the truck produce more heat to need to be dealt with or not. I'll drive it probably around 3 hours a day on average but not 3 hours straight.

I was just thinking it would be easier to install a new water pump before I put the motor in the vehicle, but if it's not that important I would rather save the money.
 
I'm curious if the Peninsular one makes a difference. Heath does not make a cooling upgrade for the 6.2 that I am aware of. His kit is for 6.5. Totally different. Serp belt, CCW rotation.
 
Just an added tidbit of info on the Peninsular HO pump... apparently there were two models available for the 6.2, both of which put out incrementally more flow than the original GM pump. The tooling for the higher flow of the two options was lost in the transition of manufacturing to Mexico. The lower GPM piece still puts out more than stock... but I can't recall the exact numbers. Call PD for more info if needed.

Neither of these are/were manufactured by Peninsular. Makes me wonder who does make them.
 
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I wonder if a CUCV 6.2 has the standard water pump or if it's an upgraded version due to the "military" edition. If not do you still think it's not worth the money to get a better water pump seeing's how I tow a smaller trailer for work everyday?

I don't even know what a better water pump consists of, is it just more pumping volume (GPM I believe is the term)? Or is there other internal components that produce a more efficient cooling?
 
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