• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Swapping broken 6.2 for newer 6.2

Dang, ok. I will try the lines from the other motor since I have them on already. I'll wait to see if it works though before I try the other injectors.

Actually the guy that told me to do that was this diesel mechanic in my area. It's kind of scary though because that's all he does is the fuel system stuff and turbos. So you would think he would have known that.
 
It wasn't the lines. It was the IP wire that warwagon was talking about.
It's the one towards the bottom of the picture. I believe that's the IP solenoid? I unhooked the wire there and ran an alligator clip from battery to that clip and it started and ran for awhile till I unhooked it. When I tested the wire for 12v with key turned on it didn't show any voltage while motor was hot. I'll try again in the morning when the motors cold. I'm thinking there's some kind of temp sensor some where between the clip and the ignition switch that's making it only run when cold then once it warms it shuts off voltage to the wire, maybe? Somebody told me something about a cold start thingy and they thought it had something to do with my problem.
 
I think warwagon was referring to a pink wire but mine are green. I can't remember what wire I checked though when he was telling me about it, but the green wire has a connection that connects to the top clip and another green wire coming off that connects to the bottom clip.
 
Pink wire goes to the top. that would make alot of sense if you have those wrong. The green wires are for the cold advance and high idle. Make sure the pink wire goes to the top of the IP not the side.
 
RNation said:
I unhooked the wire there and ran an alligator clip from battery to that clip and it started and ran for awhile till I unhooked it.
Click to expand...

Wow. I can't say that I have not done something like that.

The good news is your cold start switch is working.

X2 on pink wire said above... The engine will start with pink only - without the green wires on. You do have a pink wire in the CDR, tuna can, pic of yours.
 
Ya I saw it there too, I had it running to the cruise control thing. So I think I just had the wires backwards. One of the smarter things I've done in my life. ):h
 
I hooked the pink wire (wich does get 12v with key on) to the top clip on IP and the green ones to the other clip on IP but the last green wire wouldn't fit on what I think is the cruise control. But it ran ran the two minutes then shut off again. Does the pink wire connect to the top clip in the picture? And what is supposed to connect to the bottom clip? I guess something with a 12v constant need to run to the bottom clip? Which I did test the green wire while motor was cold with key turned on and no voltage. So maybe I had the wires backwards but also the green wire might have a short somewhere.
 
did you get any power on the green wire when it was cold? there is a sensor for it between cylinders 6&8 in the head. check and see if you have power there. the sensor is a on/off temperature switch. it's also a great crap collector.
 
haha...no it didn't have power when cold either. Whicch seams odd to me because then the truck was starting without power to the IP. The only power was to the cruise control.But here's a picture of the pink and green wires. The clip on the right of IP fuel hose is where I had the pink wire ran to.

 
Ya, but that wire was ok. What does it do anyway?

It was the pink wire. I had the pink wire on the cruise control thing, it needed to be on the IP solenoid. Then the two green wires I guess are for the cold advance and cruise control. Which on my picture are the top clip and the clip to the right of the fuel hose.

But I am up and running, sucks I could have been done for almost a week if I would have taken a picture of the motor setup before I took the first one out, then I would have known where the wires were supposed to be.

Anyhow I do appreciate all the help and advice, you guys were a major help and I doubt I could have gotten this done without all the knowledge floating around here.

I am interested in the wires for the IP. If anyone knows what the different colors and functions are. So far I think I know the pink is the constant 12v source for the IP that connects to the solenoid. But that's it.
 
the green wire is for the advance and fast idle. the doubled one goes to advance(tab by the red dot) and the other goes on the fast idle solenoid. your right about the pink wire. it's a 12v IGN wire.the pink wire also supplies the glowplug controller.
 
3 wires. Fixed pic

I had to walk out and pop the hood. Member "just a number" describes it above.

Your pic looked wrong and I wasn't sure. So I popped the hood and redid the pic with labels. The pink wire is not connected to the proper location in your picture. The text is correct.

You have timed the engine somehow? As the marks are off, understood it is a different IP than the engine came with? I would not move IP or re-time the engine if that is how it was sent to you. Without proper tools or ear...

Engine has to be stone cold for the green wires to have 12v. Switch is by above advice.
 

Attachments

  • wire1.jpg
    wire1.jpg
    52.8 KB · Views: 5
Now I have the wires setup right like you marked them in the picture. I just didn't know before what the different wires were and the the functions.

The guy I bought my IP from (the same guy that told me to switch the IP out by leaving the lines in and just bend them out of the way) told me to set the timing a little bit to the driver side. The truck starts up on the dime though. Is there any down sides to having where I do?
 
Bill Heath's outfit says to time it by ear. Do 45 MPH with a warmed up engine. Steady speed should have light diesel clatter. Add throttle, aka heat to the precups, and clatter should go away.

Couple of antique tools available to set the timing properly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top