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Swapping broken 6.2 for newer 6.2

RNation said:
I wonder if a CUCV 6.2 has the standard water pump or if it's an upgraded version due to the "military" edition.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't bet any money on it.

RNation said:
If not do you still think it's not worth the money to get a better water pump seeing's how I tow a smaller trailer for work everyday?
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If you have to buy a new pump anyway, why not? $85 plus shipping.

My 6.2NA certainly ran hot on grades and towing loads, even with a nice fresh radiator and fan clutch. Never overheated, but definitely flirted with the temp redline. If it hadn't committed suicide by fire first, next step would have been a better fan clutch, then perhaps an HO pump if needed. If you're starting from square one and know you'll be towing, seems like a minor investment to get the better pump.

RNation said:
I don't even know what a better water pump consists of, is it just more pumping volume (GPM I believe is the term)? Or is there other internal components that produce a more efficient cooling?
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Pretty sure it's just an enlarged gap in the plate and modified swept volume to increase the overall flow. (Yes, in GPM.) So yes, to both q's, slightly different internals to provide more volume/flow.

I'm sure Peninsular would be happy to tell you the exact differences between theirs and the stock unit. I didn't care enough to ask for the rundown. It's not a lot of extra flow anyway...

Here are a couple pix of the PD pump:

Peninsular HO Water Pump - Frt.jpg


PeninsularHO Water Pump - Rear.jpg
 
Well I finally got my new motor today. All I had time to do was get the old one out. But I was looking at the new one (actually the used one from boyces) and on the side of the injection pump is a little black box looking thing with a black hose coming off and going to the flying saucer (don't know what it's called or what it does) looking thing in the back of the valley. The IP that I have from the bad 6.2 has a little black box but with an electric plug instead of the black hose (I think it's a vacuum hose). So is the one with a hose mechanical and the other obviously electrical? If so I would imagine the electric ones better?
 
I think my tranny is TH400, I have D-1-2 plus overdrive. I went ahead and switched the IP anyways. But the first two pictures are the unknown one and the third picture is the one I'm going to use. Then the forth picture is the newer motor (newer to me anyways) and the last picture is the no good motor.

As far as progress goes all I need to do now is put the intake and motor mounts back on the motor then drop her in.
 
the third picture of your new IP, are there 3 wires coming off of it? it looks alot like where the TPS would be mounted. the old one looks like it had some form of a vacuum switch on it. maybe for the transmission?
 
My IP has only 2 wires. Is TPS throttle position sensor? Do you think the vacuum switch IP is worth any money?

We did finally get the newer 6.2 motor in their, after only 7 hours, 4 of which were spent on 2 motor mount bolts that were pretty crabby...hahaha...but the hard parts done. All we have left is to put all the hoses and radiator back in.

BTW, the glow plugs had a flat head but the shape was like a spade and was a little skinnier, is that 24v or just a different brand 12v? The ones I have from busted 6.2 have the flat head but it's more square and the head is a little bit wider than the spade head ones, maybe I should post some pictures though?
 
yes TPS is throttle position sensor. I'm tring to figure out why it has a vacuum lines on it. first thought is for a transmission kickdown?
 
Flat spade is 12v. They could be wellmans though. I'd get rid of if they are. IIRC The military uses Wellmans. They are crap. Pull one out and see if you can see a name on it.
 
I switched the spade ones for the square ones I had. I'll probably just keep them for extra parts. Now I have all kinds of extra parts, I'm not sure though what to do with the old motor. I want to keep it to find out what the original problem was, but realistically it would just sit there for 5 years before I decided to get rid of it.

I would have to agree about the TPS vacuum line being for the tranny. I can't think of anything else that would be required to know some where the throttle position is.
 
Welp, I ran into a problem now. We had the tranny bolts in place and tightened, but the fly wheel bolt holes won't line up to the torque converter bolt holes. We tried turning the flywheel but the holes still won't line up. It appears the fly wheel needs to go up or the torque converter needs to go down. I did measure the distance on the flywheel between the outer edge to the inner edge of a bolt hole on both flywheels, mine from broken motor and the one from the drop in motor, they had two different measurements. They were about a half inch different. I called boyces and he said the motor he sold me had a TH400 tranny and I thought mine did too ( it has OD-D-1-2). Do you think the flywheel needs to be switched?
 
You have a TH700. Overdrive. That is why you have wires on your IP and The new motor has vaccuumm switch. Use everything off your old motor inlcuding flexplate.(You have a flexplate not a flywheel, flywheel is manual trans...)Scribe the switch on the IP before you take it off and make sure you put it on new IP in exactly same place. You may need the vac pump off your old motor if it has wires going to it.
 
Whats the easiest way to switch em? As far as I can tell we can either pull the motor back out (or just pull it forward enough to get the bolts off) or slide the tranny back but that might be harder to do because we can't figure out how to detach the drive train.

On the tranny note, does that mean the drop in motor I got would have the 400 and mine was the 700 model?
 
It sounds like it. Take a dead on pic of the trans pan if you can. The shape of it will tell the tale. Make sure when you swap your swtich from your IP to the new Motors IP that you put it in EXCATLY the same spot. That should get you close if not dead on. Earlier generation 700s IIRC did not use an RPM sensor on the Vac pump but later models did. My 91 had it. I don't hink my 83 does. Both had 700's. As far as the flexplate that is really up to you. Not sure where you are on the install. If nothing is bolted on the motor yet may be easier to pull the motor back out.
 
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