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Resurecting New Engine

Went to replace the joints and got the wrong two from advanced. So, since gun opening is this Saturday and i NEED 4wd i took it to Fleet Pride. They said correct way is slip joint towards the axle. So apparently mine has been back words all 5 years I have owned it..
 
See now my 93 is slip toward the T-case, and my 84 K-10 is slip toward axle currently.. I dunno what if any difference there would be in operation.
 
Picture of the goodies from last week. Some stakes for my newly acquired drives this season, almost new plow shoes, frame gussets and the newly jointed shaft.
 

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3500GMC said:
See now my 93 is slip toward the T-case, and my 84 K-10 is slip toward axle currently.. I dunno what if any difference there would be in operation.
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I am getting mixed answers that are half and half. So for now we will slap in in this way and keep an eye peeled for adverse effects.
 
tanman_2006 said:
All of mine have the slip at the tcase, just saying. That's 4 GMT400's
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Did some young and foolish stuff this am
Installed the shaft in 20 dergree weather on the pavement. So its currently in slip joint towards the axle. I was checking clearence between the t case and thick part of the shaft and there is about 1 inch gap. Hopefully its enough. Felt ok on the ride in otherwise today!
 
Since we are getting closer to the season i decided to install the hydraulic plow belt for the season (usually take it off during summer). Last summer my idler pulley went and shredded the serpentine belt and chewed a small spot in the plow belt. So i opted for the fancy Napa green unit (supposed to last longer?). We will see. Also snapped a quick picture at work with the snows on, might look into getting some Cooper Discoverer M&S. My Wrangler TD's have about 40K and are showing. Can't quite swallow the pill yet on the cost, school has drained me.
 

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Well had some more issues pop up with the truck lately. My drivers door has been getting very tough to latch. After dis-assemble come to find out the tiny return spring on the striker latch is broken. Since i was working for the moment i put it back together well lubed. Test closed the door without the panel on 3 times. Put the panel on and now the door is stuck closed! I can look down with the weather stripping removed and all rods move freely clear to the latch mechanism. I know the unlock rod is in the unlocked position. But it seems as the latch itself is way gone. Anyone know of a trick to popping the latch? I stopped at the junkyard today and got a new-er latch. just need to get my door open again to replace. Thanks for any ideas.
 
You have the kodiak handles right? On mine the rod was pushing down slightly on the latch, well it must come up fully inorder to operate right the next time. Try messing with the handles paddle and see it it is putting pressure on the linkage if it is it won't unlock.
 
Burning oil said:
You have the kodiak handles right? On mine the rod was pushing down slightly on the latch, well it must come up fully inorder to operate right the next time. Try messing with the handles paddle and see it it is putting pressure on the linkage if it is it won't unlock.
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Thanks for the tip Leroy. I can look down in the door and i can pull the paddle, however the de-tent spring is broken that returns the latch to. The spring is on the actual latch on the side of the door. I tried this technique some last night when i got home until i froze.

Its so hard to explain, i wish i had the extra one here to take a pic... Wait forgot my cell phone and camera today so i guess that wouldn't happen anyways.

I really think im down to trying to remove the door panel while the door is shut, my panels are very nice though, i dont want to ruin them. Maybe some work at lunch today...

Also was firing up the truck this am, and sliding across the passenger seat when i heard a pop/click. My interior lights went out and my radio went out. Thinking i also blew a fuse now. Just before the door stuck shut i replaced the drivers door light switch, mine was broken. I replaced it with a junkyard unit and am thinking it shorted or something. Thats the only electrical change ive done since its blown. I also got a new headlight switch that may be the culprit, but still havent installed yet. Time is killing me with starting back at school next Monday.
 
Well i ended up carefully pulling the door panel off without damaging it. Loostened a bunch of screws on the guts part of the door and got a screw driver in there. Played with the latch where Leroy suggested and finally got it to open! Of course as soon as i closed it the door stuck again, but i now know i can at least get it open!

Thanks!
 
The rod from handle to latch may be to long? Put a small bend in it to shorten it alittle. Did you use GM rods or modify the original?
 
Burning oil said:
The rod from handle to latch may be to long? Put a small bend in it to shorten it alittle. Did you use GM rods or modify the original?
Click to expand...

I used the stock rods for Kodiak trucks, so i swapped mine out. When i get the latch out i will try to get a pictures to show which spring is broken.
 
Mine feel like the door latches are not opening all of the way and they drag while opening. Would bending the rods help my issue too? Also my door locks don't work, the key won't turn the ds door.

I got my kit from you, Leroy, and think I got new rods with it iirc.
 
I installed new lock cylinders in my kodiak handles, but i got just cheapie ones from PepBoys. They already dont work worth a crap..
 
tanman_2006 said:
Mine feel like the door latches are not opening all of the way and they drag while opening. Would bending the rods help my issue too? Also my door locks don't work, the key won't turn the ds door.

I got my kit from you, Leroy, and think I got new rods with it iirc.
Click to expand...

If you used kodiak linkage you should be good. Sounds like you need new latch and or door bushings/pins
I did both and it made the door like new again
 
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