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Resurecting New Engine

Well got the new-used latch in from the junkyard. Was 5 bucks. Looks like the two operation springs both were broken, which caused the failure. Almost looks as if they have been broken for a while though.

Side note, while installing my Kodiak handle back in i noticed the threads were real light on one side. While tightening it in i ended up stripping the other side, and the first pull stripped the light threaded side. Luckily i happen to have a spare Kodiak handle in my basement, im almost 99% sure its the drivers too.. When i get home tonight i will install the other handle.
 

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The bottom picture is the one I reffered to. The rod from the handle inserts there, if there is downward pressure on it the latch won't "reset" and will stay locked even though the lock cylinder says its unlocked.
With the spring sagged out like in your picture I can see why you had problems.
 
The bottom picture is the one I reffered to. The rod from the handle inserts there, if there is downward pressure on it the latch won't "reset" and will stay locked even though the lock cylinder says its unlocked.
With the spring sagged out like in your picture I can see why you had problems.

That day i went to mess with it i tried exactly as you said. I got a screw driver under that lever and hit it upward. Pulled the handle and the door popped right open!
 
The bottom picture is the one I reffered to. The rod from the handle inserts there, if there is downward pressure on it the latch won't "reset" and will stay locked even though the lock cylinder says its unlocked.
With the spring sagged out like in your picture I can see why you had problems.

That day i went to mess with it i tried exactly as you said. I got a screw driver under that lever and hit it upward. Pulled the handle and the door popped right open!
 
Got the new latch installed, while i was at the junkyard i picked up these door piece from a '94 burb. Planning to install on my truck to make it accommodate eventual power towing mirrors!

And a wash while it was in the 40's!
 

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You're gonna regret that offer Leroy! I am going through my parts list for another order (fuel filter rings included) and I might have to request one of these controls.
 
Well, I just checked and looks like I only have two sets. Both are a light brown/wheat color. Both DS and PS $50/set + ship
(I paid $45 for them at the JY)
 
That's the setup I put in for my powered mirrors. I only found the drivers side in the pick-n-pull, so my passenger side is still as it came from the factory.

The stock door panel can be easily modified to accept the Burb switches. The metal inner door panel already has the slots for the metal clips. All you will need to do is put the clips in place. The switches will need to have the wires put into the Burb connectors as the pickup connectors do not interchange. It really isn't hard to do.

I did have to get some plastic paint since I needed grey and the panel parts were tan.

Don
 
I will keep this in mind if you guys are interested next time i go to the yard. I paid $35 for mine. I have been looking for a good set of these for YEARS. Now i just need to find a red set from a 2-door tahoe, so i can eliminate the back 2 window switches that the burb needs.

I almost bought a set of tow mirrors yesterday, but cant spend the $202 right now. I want the power and LED signal mirrors. Will post pone a bit longer..

Heated mirrors would be real nice, but i dont have a switch for that function. Has anyone done this on a 94' and older vintage rig yet? The heated/power/signal mirrors are about 20 bucks more than the power/signal mirrors.
 
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