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Replacement turbo

Hey fellas! Has anyone heard from Slim? I had a couple A-Team Turbos on order before you went on-line. Not sure what to do? Any thoughts? Thanks!
 
Thanks a whole big bunch, Slim!! Now I'll just have to sit back and wait for Santa Claus to arrive. I know we don't really need gauges for a stock fueled unit with the A-Team Turbo, but does anyone have a suggestion for the best set of a-piller gauges? Also, has anyone thought about insulating the turbo? Since the ATT does not have the shield, it may be a good idea. I started thinking about adding insulation to the ATT for my fuel economy experiment, but I may also do it on my daily tugger. Anyone know where to start looking for turbo insulation? I'd really like to just buy a sewn-to-fit unit if they aren't too darn outrageous. I realize this may be a little off topic, but I wouldn't be on the topic if it weren't for the new turbos!
 
matuva said:
Have a look at my garage, I just put fresh pics of my turbo dressed with heatshield blanket ;)
Click to expand...

Matuva was the first A-team purchaser, he has been there from the start, Pm is being readied my friend. I will be in contact, he does things with class. Nice pics.

Slim
 
Thanks all.
Material is coming from eBay.

The heat shield blanket comes from seller kp_performance, it comes in a 36" x 40" piece. He is not selling anymore on ebay, but a search with "heat shield blanket" yeld several results e.g. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T...rQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1914wt_758

the downpipe wrapping is THERMO TEC EXHAUST WRAP COPPER 2"X50' #11032 from americanracingsupply seller. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/THER...462340299QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts#ht_833wt_758
 
There are a few kits sold w/ generalized sizing - eg. for T3, or T4 sized tangential turbines. Search "turbo heat shield" at Summit Racing's website.

You could also just buy the material & cut/fit to shape.

Not certain what year they started, but the later truck's AC accumulators did have some type of insulation/covering.

If it's to shield the AC acumulator, you might even try the rolls of Al foil covered, dimesized bubble, bubblewrap. Can't recall what it's called, but is usually the home centers (Lowes, HDepot, etc.) in either insulation or HVAC areas. Seems like they also promote it sometimes to insulate garage doors.

If the area's temp isn't so high as to melt & deflate the bubbles, that stuff is pretty effective at blocking both radiant & convective heat movement. The material is cheap enough to buy some & just tape a chunk where you'd like to use it - then see if it melts/deflates the inner bubbles. I've used it to insulate an intake mass airflow sensor from seeing & reacting to external hot air from radiator fanwash.

Just cut & wrap the material to suit. Then use Al foil adhesive tape to hold it together & seal it up. The Al tape maintains the shiny/reflective radiant heat barrier.
 
I would advise using caution with the heatshield wrap on the downpipe. I wrapped the PS header on my Blazer with it to try and keep from frying the starter. It held moisture and rotted the header. Had to buy another pair of headers just to get the passenger side one.

Anyone need a drivers side Hooker header for a 74 Blazer with 350?
 
packratt said:
I would advise using caution with the heatshield wrap on the downpipe. I wrapped the PS header on my Blazer with it to try and keep from frying the starter. It held moisture and rotted the header. Had to buy another pair of headers just to get the passenger side one.

Anyone need a drivers side Hooker header for a 74 Blazer with 350?
Click to expand...

Very good point.

The crossover was the only part of my exhaust I got in stainless. I also ceramic coated it w/ Cermakrome. Wanted all the corrosion protection I could get on that piece since I intend to insulate it with header wrap to get back some of the heat retention the OEM double-walled piece had.

Now, if I can just get a minor oil leak (that's currently dripping oil on the crossover) in my remote oil filter system fixed, I can then install the header wrap. Don't want to risk it catching/collecting enough oil to be a fire risk - reading a couple of the 6.5's lost to fire posts gets one's attention.
 
packratt said:
I would advise using caution with the heatshield wrap on the downpipe. I wrapped the PS header on my Blazer with it to try and keep from frying the starter. It held moisture and rotted the header. Had to buy another pair of headers just to get the passenger side one.

Anyone need a drivers side Hooker header for a 74 Blazer with 350?
Click to expand...

I find it very hard to believe that something that reaches 1000df + can hold 'moisture' enough to rot away. All that moisture should be evaporated off in a hurry unless the vehicle sits alot??
 
Matt Bachand said:
I find it very hard to believe that something that reaches 1000df + can hold 'moisture' enough to rot away. All that moisture should be evaporated off in a hurry unless the vehicle sits alot??
Click to expand...

If you like I'll snap a pick of my crossover that is looking ugly due to wrapping it in header wrap, smart idea that was!

Cheers
Nobby
 
I thought the same thing - and no doubt any residual water gets baked out quickly when it's running. But all the same, I've seen wrapped portions of exhaust come off vehicles that showed notably more corrosion than unwrapped portions further back.

Could be the corrosion starts when things are cold. Then as the rust proceeds towards the flaking point, the hot/cold cycles accelerate the flaking & expose new metal to corrosion faster.

I also saw a wrapped - very nice/expensive, custom 304 stainless downpipe (from a 2.0 Mistu turbo engine that occasionally saw EGT's to 1700F - knowing the guy, maybe even higher) accidentally dropped onto a concrete floor. A couple places in the tubing cracked, almost as if the material was crystalized & shattered upon hitting the floor. That situation drove the maker of the downpipe to begin putting a disclaimer on the product that they couldn't stand behind the product if installed with header wrap.

Since I intend to wrap my crossover, I'm betting my 6.5 would melt something internal well before getting the exhaust hot enough to impact the crossover's metallurgy.
 
nobby said:
If you like I'll snap a pick of my crossover that is looking ugly due to wrapping it in header wrap, smart idea that was!

Cheers
Nobby
Click to expand...

Nope, i believe it. I wasn't doubting any of you or packratt for saying it makes them corode faster...

Where I live it would no doubtedly trap salt in there and as everything else does, rust away............
 
Matt Bachand said:
I find it very hard to believe that something that reaches 1000df + can hold 'moisture' enough to rot away. All that moisture should be evaporated off in a hurry unless the vehicle sits alot??
Click to expand...

Wasn't setting, at the time it was my daily driver. These were the ceramic coated headers.
 
I too have seen header wrap rot out pipes faster than having nothing there. You can evaporate the moisture out, but it will get wet again and again and not shed as well as a plain pipe. It also holds the salt in.
Didn't I read somewhere heat wraps on exhaust isn't legal for street use?
 
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