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Rebuilding a GEP Engine

A couple of pictures of the engine in and a start on the mount for the Provent. I also started on the fix, got the torque converter unbolted. There are no leaks so that's good. Hope moving the trans back enough to reach the flexplate won't be too bad.

GEPEnginein04-1201.jpg


GEPEnginein04-1202.jpg


GEPEnginein04-1203.jpg


That is the original metal tube for the CDR. Just used some old hose to see how everything will fit. A little hard to get to the dipstick, but not real bad.
 
Very very nice Bobbie, that dosen't look like the same engine we loaded into your truck a couple of months ago!! Lots of good info for when i get out GEP #2 and start on it in the fall.
Don
 
I got the flexplate turned the right way and it runs very smoothly. I have only driven it about 15 miles so far, but all seems well. Spent Sunday making the mount for the Pro Vent. I think the pump timing is a little retarded and I need to fine tune the TPS, but I'm pretty happy with the way it runs now. The only problem I have is the cold start is always on. I checked the wires for a short, but they are fine. It was replaced with a new one when I installed the second engine, but I guess its bad. I don't look forward to changing that, but with the inner fender removed it won't be too hard.

The oil pressure varies a lot with RPM. Cold, it has about 75 PSI, but once it warms up only about 30 at idle. It comes right up as soon as the revs rise so I guess all is well. I need to get the AC charged up and a few other small things like that and put some miles on it.
 
Your signature needs to be updated:D Maybe I jinxed the temp switch by asking about it:confused:
 
Excellent job, and congratulations!

We'll look forward to more pictures and MAYBE a video?

Thanks for sharing,

-Rob :)
 
Oil pressure seems consistent with other 6.5's that idle at average 20 warm and 50 cruising. Yours may be a tad higher.

Great to hear she's purring smoothly. Bet you can't wait to have this thing lugging the family around again!
 
Got the new cold start switch today, the dealer replaced it under warranty. That fixed the cold start problem. Now just have a leak in the AC lines somewhere. I've gone over every connection but no luck. I may take it to a guy I know and see if he can find something. I have driven it a bit and its running very well. Its the smoothest 6.5 I've ever driven, I guess the balancing paid off. Hardly shakes at all at idle. I'll get pics and a video soon, I hope!
 
Since the engine is in and running, I'll be posting most of the pictures back on my Suburban Renewal thread. That is what started this anyway. Once its all done, I will post a wrap up here.

Here are a couple while I'm waiting for the new AC line.

GEP-1.jpg


GEP-2.jpg
 
The AMG engine has about 800 miles on it now and I'm very happy so far. Its running well with no problems. I changed the oil at 400 miles, but I haven't really hammered it yet. It runs pretty well, I think better than before but its hard to tell. In another 200 miles or so, I figure it will be broken in enough to try some full throttle runs. I have the TM set to 8 lbs during break in, I'll turn it up soon and try it out.

One thing that has surprised me is the lack of smoke and oil usage during break in. Other then the very first time it started, there has been really no smoke from the tailpipe. And it has used virtually no oil. I don't know if its careful assembly or the Mann ProVent or maybe I'm just lucky so far, but I'm glad about that. The original engine used about a quart of oil every thousand miles, pretty much from day one until I took it out. I'm running regular Rotella T, which is what I have been using for the last 10 years or so.

I had some reservations about having the rotating assembly balanced, but seems to be very smooth. So I would recommend balancing. I debated on balancing or maybe a Fluidamper. The AMG engine had a new balancer and I figured I could add a Fluidamper later if I wanted, but this was my only shot at balancing, so that is the way I went. Maybe when this balancer gives out I will try a different damper, but right now I'm going to keep it the way it is. My wife even commented on how smooth it runs.

If you are switching from a GM block to an AMG, a couple of things to remember. First, the engine to transmission studs are metric threads. The GM blocks were SAE. You will need 6 studs, the GM part number is 15724226. Also, the motor mount bolts into the block are metric. I do not remember the size. The original GM bolts were grade 8, so I used 10.9. They were a little hard to find, but my local NAPA had them in stock. Be careful on these, the original SAE bolts are very close, in fact they will screw in a few threads. When you screw in the original SAE bolts, it feels like the threads in the block are damaged, but in fact they are metric. You have been warned! There are 3 bolts on each mount. Other than the trans studs & motor mounts, you can reuse everything else from the old engine.
 
Great news BM... Glad things are runnin smoothly.

I don't think you'll ever regret the balancing. HB's are rated for around 100k, so give it a few years and toss a Fluidampr on there when its time to replace.. In the meantime run it for a few years, let it start to pay you back!

Once again nice work. These are the types of projects I don't see myself ever having the oppurtunity to do. I sure like reading about them though!
 
bobbiemartin said:
A long day today, but I got it running. It has good oil pressure and once I got the air out of the lines, it starts right up. However, it has a vibration.
Well, looking back at some pictures I found the problem. :mad2:
I can't believe I was that stupid! :cryin:
I put the flexplate on backwards!!!!! :oops:

GEPReadytoInstall2.jpg


So I guess I know what I'll be doing next Saturday!
:ANGRY_~317:

At least its not something the engine has to come out for, but its bad enough.
Click to expand...

Geez, lucky I read that thread, wasn't even thinking about checking that. I might have made the same mistake....
 
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