Rebuilding a GEP Engine

[Brooklyn Tow]

The AMG engine has about 800 miles on it now and I'm very happy so far. Its running well with no problems. I changed the oil at 400 miles, but I haven't really hammered it yet. It runs pretty well, I think better than before but its hard to tell. In another 200 miles or so, I figure it will be broken in enough to try some full throttle runs. I have the TM set to 8 lbs during break in, I'll turn it up soon and try it out.

One thing that has surprised me is the lack of smoke and oil usage during break in. Other then the very first time it started, there has been really no smoke from the tailpipe. And it has used virtually no oil. I don't know if its careful assembly or the Mann ProVent or maybe I'm just lucky so far, but I'm glad about that. The original engine used about a quart of oil every thousand miles, pretty much from day one until I took it out. I'm running regular Rotella T, which is what I have been using for the last 10 years or so.

I had some reservations about having the rotating assembly balanced, but seems to be very smooth. So I would recommend balancing. I debated on balancing or maybe a Fluidamper. The AMG engine had a new balancer and I figured I could add a Fluidamper later if I wanted, but this was my only shot at balancing, so that is the way I went. Maybe when this balancer gives out I will try a different damper, but right now I'm going to keep it the way it is. My wife even commented on how smooth it runs.

If you are switching from a GM block to an AMG, a couple of things to remember. First, the engine to transmission studs are metric threads. The GM blocks were SAE. You will need 6 studs, the GM part number is 15724226. Also, the motor mount bolts into the block are metric. I do not remember the size. The original GM bolts were grade 8, so I used 10.9. They were a little hard to find, but my local NAPA had them in stock. Be careful on these, the original SAE bolts are very close, in fact they will screw in a few threads. When you screw in the original SAE bolts, it feels like the threads in the block are damaged, but in fact they are metric. You have been warned! There are 3 bolts on each mount. Other than the trans studs & motor mounts, you can reuse everything else from the old engine.

Mat, besides the flexplate, this seems to be a deal breaker as well.............Seems very important!

 

[cHEAVYGUY]

Back around 2006(sorry not to sure on the year) when my cousin was serving in Afghanistan he said they tried blowing their engine in their Humvee to get a new engine SMH he said the newer engines were faster. Main point of my message >>> They ran the engine with no oil and a cement block on the accelerator. It took 12 hours for the engine to quit and then the engine was still salvageable but cost was comparible to a new engine. I just thought I'd post this. The whole conversation came about when he said our N/A 6.2 sounded like their Humvee's. The 6.2 has 3.5" true dual exhaust with glasspacks their Humvee's straight pipes. P.S. Great Build!

I don't know Mike but he's in my prayers now.

 

[jeffrey98335]

Very nice. I wish I would have seen this before I replaced my engine. Beautiful Job!!!

 

[rich J]

Forgot one picture, no question it has oil squirters. on picture 3 what is the yellow thing with wires called