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Rebuilding a GEP Engine

Like the silver hammertone. A little texture to hide surface imperfections, but won't hold grime like the wrinkles.

Coated mine mirror black for simplicity, but like bk95td says, black sort of disappears in the engine bay.
 
It would be interesting to Dyno your engine and bk95td's engine and compare HP and TQ numbers....

Mine is pretty much stock, so not expecting any big numbers. I have sold the Marine injection pump and now have a slightly tweaked DB2 831 pump. Stock injectors, but will probably run 10-12 lbs boost. So maybe a bit over 200HP?
 
Mine is pretty much stock, so not expecting any big numbers. I have sold the Marine injection pump and now have a slightly tweaked DB2 831 pump. Stock injectors, but will probably run 10-12 lbs boost. So maybe a bit over 200HP?

Just curious if the Optimiser has a performance edge over the masses......I "think" Barry did a stock build as well, and was just wondering how the two Optimisers' would play out, numbers wise....
 
Yep, Mine is pretty much stock also. I do plan on a fairly stout chip. Maybe 220hp?I'm looking more for durability.
 
You know that low pressure switch wont give you much indication of filter condition being on the dirty side.

You got me thinking, so I made some changes. Here is the new MK II Version!

GEPFuelManager2.jpg


GEPFuelManager1.jpg


Now it will indicate a low pressure from a clogged filter. It has -6 hose up to the pump inlet. I drilled out the fittings to match the inlet size on the pump, so it should flow at least as much as the pump will.
 
Well darn! Because the fuel inlet is on the end of the DB2 pump, Fuel Manager MK II had some clearance issues so I had to make some more mods. I'm back to having the pressure sensor on the air bleed. I also went to a barb fitting on the fuel supply. Such is life.

GEPFuelMan-3.jpg
 
However, on the plus side, the engine is now back in the Suburban! Its all bolted in, and with some luck, will be running this weekend.

Here are a few pictures just before the install.

GEPReadytoInstall4.jpg

BTW, to show you that my Mini post do have some relevance, that is a Mini gearbox selector shaft holding the chain up (behind the thermostat)

GEPReadytoInstall2.jpg


GEPReadytoInstall1.jpg


GEPReadytoInstall7.jpg


And two with it in the Sub

GEP-Itsin2.jpg


GEP-Itsin3.jpg


Still a ways to go, but I'm on the home stretch now!
 
Well darn! Because the fuel inlet is on the end of the DB2 pump, Fuel Manager MK II had some clearance issues so I had to make some more mods. I'm back to having the pressure sensor on the air bleed. I also went to a barb fitting on the fuel supply. Such is life.

GEPFuelMan-3.jpg


Yea its a pain getting a fuel gauge in between the filter and IP on a DB2, I have to slip my manifold under the filter after the lines are hooked up. I have maybe 4-6" inches of 3/8" line between the two.
 
Bobby, what is the blue fitting on the oil pan in post #150, first picture? Is that a return for a bypass filter? Really, really, nice job BTW!
 
Bobby, what is the blue fitting on the oil pan in post #150, first picture? Is that a return for a bypass filter? Really, really, nice job BTW!

Thanks. I thought someone would see that. Its a weld on -8 hose fitting. Its for the drain on a Mann Pro Vent. I'll be using that instead of the CDR.
 
A long day today, but I got it running. It has good oil pressure and once I got the air out of the lines, it starts right up. However, it has a vibration.
Well, looking back at some pictures I found the problem. :mad2:
I can't believe I was that stupid! :cryin:
I put the flexplate on backwards!!!!! :oops:

GEPReadytoInstall2.jpg


So I guess I know what I'll be doing next Saturday!
:ANGRY_~317:

At least its not something the engine has to come out for, but its bad enough.
 
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Could the vibration be the exhaust touching something? I had that happen when I changed turbos.

Never mind, I see you found the problem and already posted it. I should finish reading to the end of a post.:smile5:
 
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Thanks. I thought someone would see that. Its a weld on -8 hose fitting. Its for the drain on a Mann Pro Vent. I'll be using that instead of the CDR.
See my sig on the 98.

you got a drain valve with yours? cause if not,your pan drain fitting will be to high.

i got my return drain inlet 2" from the bottom,the oil level acts as the valve.

Nice job on the rebuild:thumbsup:
Sucks to have to tear the mill back out
 
you got a drain valve with yours? cause if not,your pan drain fitting will be to high.

Yes, I bought check valve. I thought about going with the return below the oil level. Had these thoughts that the fitting may come loose one day and all the oil would drain out. Probably a silly reason, but in any event that is how I will be plumbing mine.
 
A long day today, but I got it running. It has good oil pressure and once I got the air out of the lines, it starts right up. However, it has a vibration.
Well, looking back at some pictures I found the problem. :mad2:
I can't believe I was that stupid! :cryin:
I put the flexplate on backwards!!!!! :oops:

GEPReadytoInstall2.jpg


So I guess I know what I'll be doing next Saturday!
:ANGRY_~317:

At least its not something the engine has to come out for, but its bad enough.

Dont feel bad. I have a flywheel at work off a GEP 6.5 that has two counterweights 180º apart and these guys build these all the time, must have been a disgruntle workers last day that built the flexplate. The guy that installed it should have caught it also.

Sorry to hear about the mishap, it happens, atleast it was a cheap mistake just time consuming. You may be able to slide the trans back about 2" without unhooking every thing and flop the flexplate, on HMMWV's I use a couple starter bolts to keep it lined up and sometimes use a ratchet strap to hold the trans toward the rear while I work.

Great looking engine BTW.
 
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