Rebuild about done

[Will L.]

It is hard to see if they are lined up in this picture.
The comparison of the factory gears to the aftermarket is key- if he still has it open- tell him put little white paint on the teeth where the marks are, do same with factory and line them up- then take pic.

 

[dieselolds]

My son texted me this picture after using tho old gear and chain to set timing. He then took it off the time keeper. Unfortunately he didn't take a picture with the chain. He thinks he installed the time keeper off by 1 tooth originally. How does it look?

By looking at it closely it appears the dots are aligned in that picture but still could be mis-stamped.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

The build I'm working on now required a offset key to get right...

 

[jrsavoie]

The build I'm working on now required a offset key to get right...

I wonder how close the offset keys that have been needed are to being all the same.
If the production is all the same, you'd think they'd all be made wrong, but the same

 

[Rodd]

It is hard to see if they are lined up in this picture.
The comparison of the factory gears to the aftermarket is key- if he still has it open- tell him put little white paint on the teeth where the marks are, do same with factory and line them up- then take pic.

It is still open. I'll have him do that.

 

[Rodd]

The build I'm working on now required a offset key to get right...

What is an offset key?

 

[Will L.]

Instead of a square, the keyway the holds the timing gear is manufactured with an offset for a specific amount of degrees. These are offset keyways:

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

The gear set may very well be correct, remember there are keyways cut in the cam and crank, either of them could be off a bit.

 

[Rodd]

My son finally came over to switch back to the stock chain. The dots line up.

 

[Will L.]

So knowing that the crank and camshaft are in the correct factory position, you can slide off the chain set and slide on the gear drive. Do it without rotating the cam or crankshaft and you’ll know it is factory timed.

 

[dbrannon79]

So knowing that the crank and camshaft are in the correct factory position, you can slide off the chain set and slide on the gear drive. Do it without rotating the cam or crankshaft and you’ll know it is factory timed.

and post a pic too.

 

[Rodd]

So knowing that the crank and camshaft are in the correct factory position, you can slide off the chain set and slide on the gear drive. Do it without rotating the cam or crankshaft and you’ll know it is factory timed.

That's what I figured. My son is coming back to do it tomorrow. He did say that it felt like one of the gears onthe time keeper was a tight fit when he pulled it off. We'll see when he puts it back on.

 

[Rodd]

and post a pic too.

will do.

 

[Rodd]

Here is the time keeper installed. Looks like the bottom gear mark is off to the left by one tooth.

 

[dbrannon79]

Be sure to mark the gears with a center punch and a paint marker so you know where it needs to be if you ever have to do a tear down again or for the next person.

 

[Will L.]

100%
Mark it and please post pictures.

 

[Rodd]

I'll get it marked.

 

[MrMarty51]

Thank You so much for posting this portion of Your rebuild thread.
It has helped Me immensely, I will be dropping the pan on My engine, pulling the timing cover and installing the gear set.
This portion of the thread is going to help Me a lot.

 

[Rodd]

Thank You so much for posting this portion of Your rebuild thread.
It has helped Me immensely, I will be dropping the pan on My engine, pulling the timing cover and installing the gear set.
This portion of the thread is going to help Me a lot.

You shouldn't need to drop the pan to replace the timing gear/chain.

 

[dbrannon79]

I think Marty is playing that game of you name it, it leaks lol. mee too lol my parking spot is turning black. for me it's the valve covers and some on the pan. I have been studying the 6.2 block I have and thinking of looking around for a few sets of those cover hold downs that were used on the older 350's chrome covers that had the tee handles for bolts. all I have found are now made of aluminum, if I can find some made of steel, I can use a torch and flex them a bit to wrap around the curves of the valve covers and give certain areas a little more rigidity and maybe seal. after washing the engine and driving a couple of days. I have been able to locate most of the problem areas. all are around the "dips" or low points of the lower side of both covers. if I can add just a scoosh of clamping force in those areas I think I will have the covers 90% sealed without having to pull it all apart again!