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Rebuild about done

for OBD1 there are very few. depends on what you want to spend. I use some software on my laptop called GMTDscan with a homemade usb adapter. the software is free but if you want to time it, you have to purchase a license for it that costs $100. it will also do just about everything that the tech 2 will do but is built specifically for the 6.5 diesels. it won't work on other gassers. if you are interested, I can provide some links to the $15 device I ordered off amazon to connect to the PCM through the USB on the laptop and where you get the drivers for the device.

google search "how to read codes on 6.5 diesel under $10" look for a thread posted on the DP forums. credit goes to the guy that made that thread, but it works. the device only uses two wires on the PCM connector, I always leave mine connected to the truck and have the USB hidden in the dash. when I need to use it, I just pull the laptop out, dig the USB out of the dash and connect. keeps me from misplacing stuff LOL.
 
dbrannon79 said:
for OBD1 there are very few. depends on what you want to spend. I use some software on my laptop called GMTDscan with a homemade usb adapter. the software is free but if you want to time it, you have to purchase a license for it that costs $100. it will also do just about everything that the tech 2 will do but is built specifically for the 6.5 diesels. it won't work on other gassers. if you are interested, I can provide some links to the $15 device I ordered off amazon to connect to the PCM through the USB on the laptop and where you get the drivers for the device.

google search "how to read codes on 6.5 diesel under $10" look for a thread posted on the DP forums. credit goes to the guy that made that thread, but it works. the device only uses two wires on the PCM connector, I always leave mine connected to the truck and have the USB hidden in the dash. when I need to use it, I just pull the laptop out, dig the USB out of the dash and connect. keeps me from misplacing stuff LOL.
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That is probably what I will need to do. Can you please send the link for the cable you ordered? So the cable needs to be adapted/modified to run the software?
 
Here is the link on DP for most of the details on making the cable.

www.dieselplace.com

How To: Scan your OBD1 6.5 for less than $10!

www.dieselplace.com www.dieselplace.com

the USB adapter I got on amazon


and the drivers for it to work on windows 7 or 10.

D2XX Drivers - FTDI

ftdichip.com ftdichip.com

on the adapter you'll have to solder the TX and RX together or just combine the two leads from the adapter so that a single wire lead comes out that is connected to both of those terminals on the adapter. the second wire lead is connected to the ground terminal on the adapter.

on the ALDL PCM connector under the dash you will only use the two pins on the end. here is a pic.

1687405336372.png

the red M terminal is connected to the wire lead from the TX/RX on the adapter, the black A terminal (ground) goes to the ground wire lead from the adapter. connect the USB on the PC after installing the drivers it should be recognized by windows. Open up the GMTDscan software and in the settings you need to make sure the correct COM port is selected. you can look in device manager in windows to see which COM port windows assigns to the adapter. Now try to connect to the PCM using GMTD. my suggestion is to download the free version of the software and make sure you can connect and read codes and live data from the PCM before purchasing the license.

once you have everything all working and purchase the license, register the software with your license and your golden.

Setting the timing had it's own procedure as well. I'm sure you know the engine has to be up to normal operating temp (170+ degrees) and if the IP is way out of adjustment, it can be a B to get it within spec. I'm talking about loosening the IP nuts and bumping one way or the other in minuscule increments. about the width of a strand of hair's movement can change the timing by a lot! we all can help you get it right when you get to that point. Just don't move the IP with the engine running, but I'm sure you knew that already.
 
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one of the things I still want to do on mine is purchase a USB extension cable or mount a USB port permanently on the dash somewhere so my adapter stays permanently mounted (becomes part of the harness under the dash) so all I need is a simple USB cable to use in the truck.

one advantage with this adapter is you can use a couple of other apps, one on a PC and another that's for an android tablet or android style stereo unit where you can record and monitor fuel maps and other neat things like guys do on the more modern vehicles, even create a digital dash gauge cluster if wanted. I started a thread here somewhere how I got it all working, just never perused it much or finished it. I'm not too much into the modern digital things, just thought it was awesome it could be done on these old rigs. even did some custom tuning on the PCM too, which I still have running in my truck. I mainly tuned it and changed some parameters in the PCM for it to adjust to my old worn out engine making it start easier and whatnot.
 
Doing the timing now. Before tdco it was -1.32. Now that we've learned it is 0. Need to search through the threads to find out which way to turn the pump toward driver or passenger. BTW once it did it is ran rough then died.
 
New question. I got it up to temp. Turned TDC timeset on. It ran rough for about 30 seconds till it turned it off. Not sure how long it is supposed to be on for. I turned on the tdc learn and it dies. Let me know what you guy's think. I did turn the pump toward the driver side.
 
I am getting a 63 - pedal position 3 circuit too high
97 - cylinder 1 imbalance
98 - cylinder 8 imbalance

I think the imbalance is due to the roughness during time set.
I have replaced the pedal position sensor in this about 6 years ago. It may be going out again.
 
Bad news!!! We got the TDCO to -2.00 and then the starter started spinning. We either put the flywheel on backwards or the starter gear doesn't engage all the way into the flywheel causing the back half of the teeth on the flywheel to shear off. It needs a new flywheel now and probably a starter as well. Since I had the everything balance not sure what will happen when adding a new flywheel to the mix without having it balanced.

I really don't want to pull the engine again. I'm thinking it might be easier to pull the trans to get at it however it will probably be a pain without a lift. I may just have it towed to a trans shop and have them do it because it's mostly labor. What thoughts do you guys have?
 
I was able to remove the flex plate by putting the truck on jack stands, slide the transmission back and then just have at it. Got a transmission lift from Harbor Freight and supported the engine with the floor jack one the trans was pulled back. Bolts are accessible though the confines are a little snug. I’m not very flexible and shoulders cramp early and often but, was able to get it done without trouble.
 
Paveltolz said:
I was able to remove the flex plate by putting the truck on jack stands, slide the transmission back and then just have at it. Got a transmission lift from Harbor Freight and supported the engine with the floor jack one the trans was pulled back. Bolts are accessible though the confines are a little snug. I’m not very flexible and shoulders cramp early and often but, was able to get it done without trouble.
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Thanks. What about the transfer case?
 
When the engine was balanced, they are supposed to do it and NOT MODIFY flexplate or balancer. But if they did get the crank closer and used the flexplate for some of it- it will still be better than it was without anything being done.

If you want, you can always replace just the ring gear. You should be able to remove the current flexplate and compare with the new one for any additional drilling or weights welded on.

On supporting the engine, besides a jack under pan you can use an engine support bar. Wally world sells one for less than harbor freight. If you have some steel tube/pipe around, diy one isn’t hard. Remember you aren’t holding the entire weight of the engine, maybe 30% of it.

I remove the driveshafts, use trans jack and slide trans& xfercase back together.

Labor of r&r trans at a REPUTABLE transmission shop might be a better awnser depending on your schedule and cashflow. Definitely a trans shop not Joe’s garage id smart.
 
Will L. said:
When the engine was balanced, they are supposed to do it and NOT MODIFY flexplate or balancer. But if they did get the crank closer and used the flexplate for some of it- it will still be better than it was without anything being done.

If you want, you can always replace just the ring gear. You should be able to remove the current flexplate and compare with the new one for any additional drilling or weights welded on.

On supporting the engine, besides a jack under pan you can use an engine support bar. Wally world sells one for less than harbor freight. If you have some steel tube/pipe around, diy one isn’t hard. Remember you aren’t holding the entire weight of the engine, maybe 30% of it.

I remove the driveshafts, use trans jack and slide trans& xfercase back together.

Labor of r&r trans at a REPUTABLE transmission shop might be a better awnser depending on your schedule and cashflow. Definitely a trans shop not Joe’s garage id smart.
Click to expand...
Thanks will. I am leaning having a trans shop do it. Mainly for time. When everything was balanced they didn't do anything to the flex plate. I was looking on rock auto and the picture of the gm plate they have is identical to the one in there. The pictures of the other manufacturers are a little different.
 
ak diesel driver said:
That starter looks odd, like not the right one
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Looks like an off brand. Between that and the bolt that doesn’t look right- probably what ruined the flywheel.
I don’t have problems with many aftermarket and lower cost parts for many things. But I have learned from so many times of me putting on factory or high end parts in place of low cost on that are “new” - that there are things I just won’t install.
 
Will L. said:
Looks like an off brand. Between that and the bolt that doesn’t look right- probably what ruined the flywheel.
I don’t have problems with many aftermarket and lower cost parts for many things. But I have learned from so many times of me putting on factory or high end parts in place of low cost on that are “new” - that there are things I just won’t install.
Click to expand...
Definitely. About everything electrical. Especially starters and alternators.
 
I will second the powermaster 9052 starter. I recently bought one from Summit racing. it was a night and day difference. use the GM starter bolts or you can go with the ARP bolts from Summit. make sure the rear bracket is installed too. that little bracket is a block killer when not installed.

on the flexplate. I was able to drop the driveshaft at the rear diff, undo the bolts on the center support bearing and unbolt the trans and slide it back enough to get in there to replace the flexplate without dropping the trans. the trans cross member should unbolt from the frame and slide back with the trans which will also help hold the trans and xfercase weight in the rear.
 
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