Pseudo-Resto 96 K-1500…Um, when was this a good idea?

[SS FORCE]

I was always jealous of all your shiny under hood parts and how clean you kept everything.

Any ideas on where you plan to mount the filters yet? There should be room on the passenger side frame rail by the tranny cooler inlet-oulet line for those right? Do you plan on leaving the aux cooler in the grill or remote-ing it with a fan?

 

[Paveltolz]

I had planned on mounting them both in the bed, inside a "wheel well tool box." Even had one mocked up for two FS-2500s; one for Engine Oil, the other for the Transmission.




I didn't care for the way the box sat in the bed though so ordered new ones and didn't care for those either. Too finicky I guess. Mostly I didn't like the long runs for the lines and the holes to drill out of the bed.

I had an idea for mounting them below the bed on a hinged plate that would lower allowing access to change the filters. In the mean time it would raise up and lock in place so the filters sat horizontally. That's ok according to the Filtration Solutions people. It would be on the driver's side to keep the assembly away from the exhaust.

I may just replace the lines for now with the braided stuff and then work on the Filter set up as time allows without further dead-lining the truck.

 

[Burning oil]

Rainy parade notice.
Sorry those are the wrong fittings, they may screw into the rad but.......
You need 3/8 inverted flare.

 

[NVW]

I was looking into "Painless" wiring harnesses this spring, IIRC they were cheaper through Summit Racing

 

[Paveltolz]

I was looking into "Painless" wiring harnesses this spring, IIRC they were cheaper through Summit Racing

Agreed. That's where I sourced mine. The kits are well done, the instructions are pretty straight forward and the results don't disappoint. I know some are able to engineer these things on their own for less and would that I were that guy. Alas....

 

[Paveltolz]

Rainy parade notice.
Sorry those are the wrong fittings, they may screw into the rad but.......
You need 3/8 inverted flare.

I'm taking my time and not discounting your advice. I'm going to a local supply house to source 3/8 inverted flare fittings to check out. Which ever I feel fits best, stays in the truck. Fortunately, there's nothing pressing me to get this truck back on the road. City code enforcer inspecting new homes going up and destroying my views noted my back yard wasn't finished and I've been in the place longer than the allotted time so guess where the Front End, BDS Lift and Painting budget is going so I don't get fined $30 a day?

In the meantime, smaller projects and, for this one, I've got my umbrella out and not just because the weather calls for thunderstorms all week.

 

[Burning oil]

Terminology may be different. On the line I used to test the fitting it says 3/8" and its inverted flare, so thats what ive been calling it. Another manufacturer/injustry may call it something else. Anyway check this link it has the style fitting you need, but I cant remember what size flare/jic you want to run?
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/inverted-flare-fitting

 

[Paveltolz]

Yes, I think we're in a terminology ping pong match with us both being correct except you are more correct. I'll explain:

Everything I'm seeing for 3/8 inverted flare refers to the tube size and the threads are 5/8"-18. "Fitting, Straight, 3/8 Tube Inverted Flare with 5/8-18 Male to -6 AN Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each" That's where we are both correct.

Here's why you're 'more correct (IMHO). On closer visual inspection of the products in your link and from my own searchings at Summit, the inverted flare will seat/seal better than the ones I have now.

The ones I have don't have the inverted flare.

Fortunately, I can return these as they are almost double what the ones I have cost me.

Thanks for hanging in there with me through another learning experience.

On edit. I found a document I put together a couple of years ago while following another 6.5er on the Place and the project he was doing. A document I had forgotten about, and low and behold, guess which type of -6AN to 5/8"-18 fittings he used? Earle's no less.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Paul post a pic of the inside of the 5/8-18 end

 

[Paveltolz]

Paul post a pic of the inside of the 5/8-18 end

Here you go.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Looks like there's a taper/flare in there?

 

[Paveltolz]

Looks like there's a taper/flare in there?

It also looks like it would actually match up quite well against the internals of the radiator's fitting.

Now what to do?
And, on a side note, can you believe I've managed to drag out a simple transmission cooler fitting for almost a full page worth of comments? Of course, I've had help.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Well since the rest are back ordered I'd probably go for the cheaper ones

 

[Burning oil]

x2 just get the correct fitting. The blue one is an "oring boss". I believe AN an NPT are same thread pitch, but just cause it fits the same hole don't mean it'll work.

 

[btfarm]

Tomorrow at work I dig out the Parker fitting book.

 

[Paveltolz]

x2 just get the correct fitting. The blue one is an "oring boss". I believe AN an NPT are same thread pitch, but just cause it fits the same hole don't mean it'll work.

Agreed. Turns out, the other two PowerFlow fittings will be here tomorrow. Regardless, I ordered 'other' units that are 5/8-18 to -6 AN with the 3/8" Inverted Flare. As AK Diesel Driver said, they cost less and are the correct ones.
I don't know about the similarities in AN and NPT thread pitches. But, earlier in this thread (page 5) btfarm posted a chart showing AN to SAE thread sizes:

Tomorrow at work I dig out the Parker fitting book.

Thanks Amigo, very much appreciate the research on my/all of our behalf.
In addition to the fittings, I ordered a line pressure testing kit. Since I'm building the lines too, I don't want to find the leaks after I'm 'done' putting everything back. Plus, I can check the oil feed and return lines I built to find where the misting is coming from.

 

[Paveltolz]

Ok, I'm officially impressed with Summit Racing. I ordered the fittings yesterday while bantering on here and today, less than 24hrs later, I have them in hand along with the pressure testing fittings.
These will come in handy...or frustrate me in exposing my ineptitude at assembling lines.


As to the fittings, Pictures will tell the story.

Both fittings are -6 AN to 5/8-18. Left has the 3/8" inverted flare; Right is the "O-Ring Boss."

Both have the cupped inner surface.


Both thread into the radiator but the 3/8 inverted flare "fits" better when fully seated.
3/8 inverted:

O-Ring Boss:


The O-Ring Boss units are going back.
Thanks again to Leroy, AK Diesel Driver and BTFarm for hanging in there with me.

Going to do my own instructions, with diagrams, on the correct routing tonight and then get started on the lines from the Transmission to the Rad and Aux. coolers. Probably tomorrow. Finally get to try out the new bench vice with AN inserts, SS Line Cutters and now the pressure kit. Stay tuned....

 

[Burning oil]

Cool, is the kit meant to be a gauge set?

The oring boss fitting may have a cone in the bottom, but it looks to be the wrong angle anyway.

 

[Paveltolz]

The kit doesn't have a gauge but I can envision how to cobbled one up to work. The inflation valves are simple tire type valves so it would be a simple matter of thread matching to make a small extension with a gauge Incorporated. I planned on just putting a bit of pressure to the lines and immerse them in water and check for bubbles like an inner tube. K.I.S.S. for a change.

 

[NVW]

Even simpler Paul is to mix dish soap and water and use a pump window cleaner bottle. Tested thousands of welds this way. Only need about two pounds of air pressure.