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Pseudo-Resto 96 K-1500…Um, when was this a good idea?

btfarm said:
Maybe another day I guess.
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You're welcome anytime.

Pounded and bent out the exhaust imperfections, scraped off as much rust as I could, wrapped the downpipe and installed it back in the truck. Hopefully it will seal up.

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Fired off the...grill and had some great Hambergers, corn on the cob and a few Hot Dogs cause, why not.
Tomorrow I'll give a couple of thick steaks a try. If you start now Mike, you can make it by tomorrow night!
 
Passenger side fender work today. Templated the Run Cool louver opening from the driver's side and laid it out, marked and then cut the opening. Worked over the cut edges with a Dremel tool so I don't get cut up later. Ran 220 DA sander over the whole fender, feathering out some of the pain chips then sprayed the whole thing with several coats of white primer. Once that was dried I masked off the louver edges and hit that with black so the white doesn't show through once the louvers are installed.
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Then I went after the fender well with hot soapy water, brush, then sandpaper. Spent extra time on the small rusty areas around the edges, fender bolt holes and such. Sprayed a couple of coats of Rustolium converter...let it sit in the sun all afternoon and then shot it with gloss black. Inside the well I used a different rust converter so it will take another 24hrs to set properly according to the instructions (still gooey at this time) and that will get shot with rubberized coating.
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Fired up the Weber and tried out some nice thick steaks...perfect. Mike, you shoulda been here, that was some good eating.
 
Still nursing the broken arm and wrist so I am not able to drive farther than town or rural roads. Maybe in the next couple of years for the fall trials
 
Thanks Leo. I didn't bother to advertise, but I took a head first trip down the basement stairs on Easter. I'm still far from anywhere near back to normal. Amazing how many things you learn to do one handed.
As a positive note, I'm certainly up to date on all the nature type shows and car shows the TV has. Swamp People, various things happening in Alaska, guys buildings hot rods and creating drama, street racing in Oklahoma, etc...
 
Running around the state this week so not much done other than turning the Louvers in, finally, for powder coating.
I'll see about getting the passenger side put back together and maybe spinning it up for a change. It took a very loooong time to recharge the batteries. Almost 48 hrs each on 2 amp deep cycle.
 
I don't know about the small drain. Both batteries have been disconnected since November of 2014....
I'll find out some stuff tomorrow...maybe. I put the replacement fender in and needed to shim it as the door was making contact. That was Monday and I was out of town again on Tuesday. Today I installed the PMD (splash plate), got the door and fender aligned, installed the fender well, battery tray and batteries. I didn't try connecting the batteries up cause I wanted to take a little time and go over everything to make sure when I put power to it, it doesn't turn into a welder... If that all goes well then I suspect I'll be trying to light the fires tomorrow. Fingers Crossed.
 
Yeah, one sat on the concrete floor, the other one was in the truck but completely disconnected. No work today as I awoke very early and very sick. Didn't see that coming! Oh well, that's why there's usually another day. If not, no worries.
Happy Father's Day everyone.
 
Big T and AK Diesel Driver, I think the comments on battery care, set on something other than concrete and the 2% charge loss should be added to the maintenance stickies for batteries. Very much appreciated. I had purchased a solar charger/maintainer...whatever thinking this thing would be in and out of the garage but, not so much. Once I get it lit off though, I will be parking it outside and then it will come in handy. Thanks.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Ah I see the batteries were out and sitting. We're they sitting on a concrete floor. I'm not sure why but that will drain them. I always put a block of wood under them.
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I once heard about the effects of concrete drainage on a battery and later learned that there was no correlation. Had to dig into this just to refresh the memory.

Short answer is that once-upon-a-time this actually occurred due to the type of material used to encase the cells.

With the use of plastic shells for the battery, battery-to-concrete discharge no longer occurs. And there is notation that storing a battery directly on concrete is now a good idea as the concrete acts as a thermal buffer for temperature extremes (hot air) which stabilizes the fluid.
 
then why do I still have issues if I don't put a board under it. I can go darn near a year without recharging as long as a board is under it.
 
Interesting as you are the first person I know to report an actual cause-and-effect. Everybody else was just anecdotal.

The articles I saw mentioned (and I had already known about) freezing with less than a full charge, so perhaps that is part of the equation?
 
I learned about the old cases being a huge problem years ago. I did an experiment with brand new batteries leaving one on 1 1/2" plywood, one on 2x4 set side by side, and one on the ground. After 2 years there was no noticible difference.

A big one that goes unnoticed a lot is dirt on the battery. It takes such a small amount of dirt between terminals to drain that its sick. How many conductive minerals are in the dirt is the key. Dirt from the terminal down the side to earth can cause same effect, but both terminals need the dirt link to earth.

Maybe its the dirt to the concrete making it?

The old hard rubber cases would also leach out the acid which is why if you read old manuals or talk to guys that wrenched on things in the 40's and prior, it was normal to add Water to the battery on a regular basis. The pores in the battery would allow electron transfer to the ground from the different cells causing thr drain.

The battery draining to the ground would take a fully charged 6volt battery to zero in 10 days. Ive had the displeasure of working with the retro batteries made out of original material. Its not like the concearn is loosing power over a long time. Over night is enough to not let the car be started. Thats why even jacking up the car to dona brane job always started with disconnecting the battery. It will drain through the jack to the ground.

All that being said, i still put my batteies on wood, just cuz it cant hurt.
 
Truck started today...back to battery discussions....

I was feeling a little better today so I started No-Lox coating connections, checking the various cables, cleaning connections, finding the right bolts and nuts (length) and decided to see how it would do if I tried to start it. Never mind its been almost 18 months, (seems longer), and I haven't bled the air or cracked an injector, removed glow plugs, squirted 30 weight down the intake runners, huffed it on WD-40 or, a no no, found an old can of Ether....

Key on, fuel pump rattling away nicely (I remember it being louder but time passes) and fuel pressure sitting right at 12lbs.
"CONTACT"
Short stab at the key after the glows cycled (it's 94* here but what the heck). Engine turned so I held the crank for about 5-10 seconds. Did I hear an 'almost fire on a cylinder or two?

Let it sit for a bit and tried a longer crank cycle, maybe 15-20 seconds. It did sound like it was trying to catch...hmmm.

After what I'm sure was too short of a wait, I hit the starter again and it lit right off. Shuddering and such as it fought for life on what is almost two year old diesel (Air Dog filters seem to be working).

Oil pressure popped right up, dust and stuff settled, no real smoke white or otherwise, engine rattled away happily, checked the new connections for leaks:
- Slight weep at the AN to 3/8 Rubber fuel inlet so I'll open it up, add an extension, run the pump and drain the old fuel, swap in new filters and water seperator, add new and what not.
- Slight weep at the transmission Auxiliary cooler output. Tighten up the fittings, clean, no issues.
- No other weeping noted at the Turbo oil inlet or outlet or block. I'll check the block fitting another time as I failed to do that.

So, bolt down the cab (removed the Nerf step bars but didn't tighten everything back up).
Find the hinge for the hood...replace hood.
Reinstall the old grill for now.
Bumper on with minimal bolts.
Put the front wheels on and back it out.
Get it in the daylight, reassess the work needed vs. wanted done and get to it.

Feeling much better about all this again.
 
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