• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Parts supplier

599 6.5 #2.jpg

Well shit. Number 2 main, Crack is about 1 inch long and goes through to the threads. So it's junk. Got some spare parts at least.
 
I was hoping to see you build this despite my optimism. :( This is why most don't bother with expensive machine work on GM castings. OTH they do run awhile with cracks in them as I am still waiting for mine to finally fail. Just a matter of when.

Sadly my favorite 6.2 source is up to $2000 for a surplus GM cast 6.2. :vomit: No thanks at that price. (I paid $950 plus the ride for a couple and yeah that long ago.)

The question is if the Navistar cast 6.5's are worth it like Teds has on Ebay over a new GEP longblock? The Navistar has a better nickel content, but, is the current GEP better than the older Navistar cast?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/02-06-6-5l...506-Block-HMMWV-Truck-Low-Miles-/362126879977
 
I still have my 6.2 block which is good but I was trying to use a bulk of my parts up since I don't have a ton of storage for multiple engines.

Its a definite gamble once their cracked how long they'll live. One I'd rather not take with my limited budget.

I've looked at that very listing. Sadly it's just out of my budget by a long shot. Guess it's back to using my 6.2 block and just saving the good 6.5 parts for another time. I was trying to consolidate my parts bin some.

I think either a gep or Navistar block would be a major improvement over an original gm one.
 
So gave Teds a call today. Quoted $2950 for a 6.5, $350 for shipping. So $3300 even, not too bad I guess.

So now to decide to try and figure how I can afford one. Or use the 6.2 I have and originally started this thread about. Definitely cheapest to go with the 6.2 since I have it. The newer 6.5 is obviously the stronger choice.

Hmmm, decisions.
 
I do recommend a new set of rings because you are "there". Gapless rings if you can afford it. ARP head studs are optional on tight budgets.
 
I do recommend a new set of rings because you are "there". Gapless rings if you can afford it. ARP head studs are optional on tight budgets.

I've never run gapless rings before, what's the cost on them?

I have headstuds on the engine that's currently in the truck. They'll be getting reused on whichever engine I run.
 
Nice truck Kris, nice shop too.

Thanks. It's the first truck I bought when I was 16. So pretty much whatever it needs to stay around it gets, lol.

It's a decent shop. I'm mostly just happy to have a flat driveway. The house I grew up in had a sloped driveway, made for a fun time doing stuff like this.

I got the engine torn down to a long block. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish getting it apart.
 
So I got the engine all torn down, left the crank sitting in place just to protect it.
All oil had been displaced by fuel and cleaned everything. The number one cam and main bearing along with rod number one where all worn to the copper showing. All the others had wear like it had 200k miles on it. So I'm happy I decided to pull it.

So as to what caused the runaway I'm thinking an injector stuck open, washed fuel past the rings and flooded the pan. Which then via the cdr was pulled into the intake and away she went. So at some point I have to send both pump and injectors out to be checked.
 

Attachments

  • 20171105_154926.jpg
    20171105_154926.jpg
    101 KB · Views: 13
  • 20171105_155010.jpg
    20171105_155010.jpg
    120.3 KB · Views: 11
Back
Top