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Parts supplier

MrMarty51 said:
X~2 on that.
You might even try to plastiguage a set of one over bearings and see how the oil clearance is on those. Dont want them too tight though, max clearance is better than too tight.
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Definitely need to check to see if I need over sized or not. Probably wouldn't hurt as with a standard oil pump it only had 8 psi at hot idle. So little tighter mains with a high volume should help that.
 
Yea, lots to clean. I'm hoping to get the heads pulled this week. See what I get done. Cam bearing would be interesting to change as I'm trying to do all this without pulling the block out of the truck. So I'll see what they look like once in get to that point.
 
Use genuine crocus cloth (abrasive is ground walnut shells) to dry polish the Main and Rod journals with. You will get a mirror finish with no/little residue that easily cleans off, unlike fine emory or 500 grit electrocut which will leave micro scratches on the journals and micro shards of carbide grit behind.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Use genuine crocus cloth (abrasive is ground walnut shells) to dry polish the Main and Rod journals with. You will get a mirror finish with no/little residue that easily cleans off, unlike fine emory or 500 grit electrocut which will leave micro scratches on the journals and micro shards of carbide grit behind.
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Good to know. I'll have to find some.

That being said may take me longer then planned to get her torn how as I have to get ready incase a little storm called Irma comes my way. I'm in central Florida and looks like in someway shape or form it's going to affect me.
 
Take a look at my project truck as to what compression loss and fuel in the oil is all about. The fire goes out at idle and washes down the cylinders even more. IMO you need to re ring it. WTF cares how bad the cylinders are on a throw away engine? As long as they are not scored the rings seal up after a deglaze and buy lots of time. Gapless rings do even better on questionable cylinders. Otherwise with machining costs to go oversize it's money better spent on a optimizer or P400. Do it right IMO means starting with an Optimizer or P400 because it isn't worth the cost on crack prone GM cast iron. If you get more life out of it without the machine expense is all about being frugal. This is where you get away with an overhaul vs. a rebuild when a budget is involved. I don't even worry about mains cracks by leaving the mains bolts alone. Only luck I have had is 36K hard miles on a cracked mains block.

I'd leave the rod and main bearings alone if they ALL look good. It just takes one bad one. If anything you have worn cam bearings or a bad oil pump. The low oil pressure was with or without fuel in the oil? Fuel in the oil will drop oil pressure like a rock. Sure other oil leaks can show up as another member spun his oil pump with the pan off to see where the high oil flow was coming from...

With that much oil/fuel in the crankcase your runaway could have been from the CDR overflowing and feeding the engine oil/fuel.
 
The cam bearing where replaced when I rebuilt it. About a 1000 miles ago.

While the pan is off I'm going to turn the crank to check the bottom of the cylinders. If there's scoring on the bottom there will be on the top. I have to check the rest of the mains and rods to see their condition. If just a new set of either bearing or rings gets it back running for a while. I'll be happy.

My plan here is to get enough life out of this engine in order to get an optimizer. A p400 would be awesome but not even remotely in my budget.

Oil pressure was always shitty with the standard oil pump. Would be 30lbs cold idle, about 35lbs hot at 2k rpm and 8lbs hot idle. This is all seen with a mechanical gauge tapped at the stock oil pressure port. I originally had a high volume pump before the crank broke but decided to use a standard one since it's a non-oil squirter block. Guess maybe I should of stay with the high one. It'll get one when it goes back together.

Oh I'm a 100% sure that the cdr allowed the fuel/oil mix to be ingested by the turbo feeding the runaway. How the fuel got into the pan hasn't been 100% confirmed yet.

I have to make it through Irma before I can continue work on her.
 
Just saying you lost oil pressure and quality so I would take a close look at the cam bearings again while you are in there. Bad install or tore up from the fuel vs. engine oil? I recently ran across a cam so worn out that the journals were under spec thus clearance was over spec although the bearing diameter in the block was in spec. Starter mount was broke off that block and all I wanted were the heads anyway.
 
It's on the list to be checked. Install of the cam went pretty smoothly from what I remember. I do have a spare cam I can use if needed.
Yeah with all the issues I've had with this block that's why I want to change it out in time. But if it can be salvaged for a bit I'm good with that.
 
I am really pissed at myself for not doing cam bearings when my motor was out. Low pressure and the whole motor has to come out and come apart, again, to fix it. Also, would studs help the bottom end?
 
Yup, made that mistake before- never again.

Yes studs are much better. They engauge more threads and hold much stronger. Less rotational force means less stress during install too.

Only reason factory engines don't use studs is cost of parts is more and more labor to install.
 
I didn't read every post, but if your running a mechanical LP the fuel probably got in the block from there. The diaphragm gets a hole in it the n fuel is pumped into the engine.
I would convert it to a FRB5 LP.
 
Quick update.
Got power back this afternoon. Still no city water but a neighbor has a well that's good enough to shower and such. So little ingenuity and both houses have some water at least.

Hopefully things will settle enough to get back to work on the old girl.
 
KrisML said:
Quick update.
Got power back this afternoon. Still no city water but a neighbor has a well that's good enough to shower and such. So little ingenuity and both houses have some water at least.

Hopefully things will settle enough to get back to work on the old girl.
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Boil the well water for a half an hour, it then will be okay to drink. I drink marsh water when in Alaska through this method, have not yet got sick from it.
 
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