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Parts supplier

20171018_195049.jpg 20171018_195104.jpg So bringing this back up. After several weeks of crazy work hours and fixing little stuff around the house from the storm. I'm finally able to get back to work on the truck. And in the passing of all that time this happened.

Picked up a 599 6.5 short block. I really only needed the block but for 150 bucks for the whole thing, so why not. Now to get it machined and my good parts pulled from the bad block. It will be a little more money this way but I can spread the cost out to make it affordable.

Once I'm done with this build that spare 6.2 I have is going up for sale. Or sooner if someone wants it.
 
KrisML said:
Picked up a 599 6.5 short block. I really only needed the block but for 150 bucks for the whole thing, so why not. Now to get it machined and my good parts pulled from the bad block. It will be a little more money this way but I can spread the cost out to make it affordable.
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Hold up a second. First you need to consider that the 59Whatthehellever GM casting is a scrap block in the Professional Engine Rebuilder world. Any GM casting is SCRAP. The suggestion is overhaul GM blocks aka Fix What Broke, like new rings, cam bearings, and call it a day. If and only if the GM cast block hasn't cracked. If you want to machine a GM block consider a improved NEW AMG GEP Optimizer long block is only $6850.00. Example here. OS Pistons, rings, bearings, machining costs all add up on a crack prone GM block.

Skip the machining as it's a cost these throw away engines don't need and won't benefit from before odds of cracking to death kill it. Done right is a improved P400 or Optimizer block to start with. Done Frugally is skipping the machining, gapless rings, deglaze cylinder with cordless drill and checking bearings. Machine shop for installing cam bearings only and note the cams can wear the bearing journals undersize. If the cylinders are in need of going Over Size again it's not worth it on GM cast blocks. If you want to rebuild a 6.5 start with a used Optimizer from Teds.
 
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WarWagon said:
Hold up a second. First you need to consider that the 59Whatthehellever GM casting is a scrap block in the Professional Engine Rebuilder world. Any GM casting is SCRAP. The suggestion is overhaul GM blocks aka Fix What Broke, like new rings, cam bearings, and call it a day. If and only if the GM cast block hasn't cracked. If you want to machine a GM block consider a improved NEW AMG GEP Optimizer long block is only $6850.00. Example here. OS Pistons, rings, bearings, machining costs all add up on a crack prone GM block.

Skip the machining as it's a cost these throw away engines don't need and won't benefit from before odds of cracking to death kill it. Done right is a improved P400 or Optimizer block to start with. Done Frugally is skipping the machining, gapless rings, deglaze cylinder with cordless drill and checking bearings. Machine shop for installing cam bearings only and note the cams can wear the bearing journals undersize. If the cylinders are in need of going Over Size again it's not worth it on GM cast blocks. If you want to rebuild a 6.5 start with a used Optimizer from Teds.
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I was under the impression that the 599 block was a better gm one to get? Miles are unknown on this block but when I pulled the pistons there wasnt any crazy wear on the rod bearings. I checked all the cylinders for size and all but 3 are within .003 of spec. The others were about .006. I'll confirm once I'm home from work but it doesn't have any main cracks.

Other then machinin cost, quoted $35 per cylinder, and bearings. The plan would be to reuse as many parts that I have on hand that I can. Good idea? Bad?
 
Determine all machining costs, and compare to used optimizer cost. remember the improved metallurgy and casting of the optimizer block/ heads have no worries about cracking above any other engine unlike the GM blocks that are known to. the 599 blocks are good, but only compared to the junk. I would pay a lot more for optimizer over any GM block.

If you can rering the 599 without machining- then yeah do it. Otherwise- not imo.
under almost no circumstances would I bother to bore a 6.5- exception being a planned high dollar build for max power/rpm.
 
Last time I quoted punching out a block OS it was $1000. :confused: Maybe just deglazing it?

6.5 piston sets are like $500.00+ if you are going Over Size... Other machine shop work? Line boar the mains, rods, new cam bearings...

Need to also check as blocks crack at the top of cylinders, head bolts, etc. Most engines die from cracks, blown head gaskets, broken cranks, cracked pistons. Very few die from bearing failures other than a failed oil cooler line.

All GM cast blocks can crack some more prone than others. Personally I like the 6.2's because the pistons are NOS on eBay all day long for like $100 for all 8 in any size.
 
This is a definite budget build for sure. I'm not building for crazy power or anything. I will be using my hx40 instead of the gm8 this time around though. Buts that's the only performance change happening. Doing mostly for all the known reasons to dump the gmx turbo.

The last time I had machine work done, about 5 years ago, it cost 450 to bore out .020, hone, hot tank it and install the cam bearings. So I didn't think 35 per hole was too bad. This block would get the same treatment.

I'm not opposed to reringing it, but I'm definitely using the forged crank that's currently in the truck. I'll have to check the stock size pistons to see what shape they're in.
 
I would most definitely re-ring it. If money allows, go with gapless rings. If not, do the standard rings. The reason I say re-ring it is because if it’s ever been close to 220 or higher then the rings don’t have much temper left and you’ll have blowby. I know this from experience.

I really would seriously consider re-ringing it while you are this far into it and have the pistons out of the block in front of you.
 
Jaryd said:
I would most definitely re-ring it. If money allows, go with gapless rings. If not, do the standard rings. The reason I say re-ring it is because if it’s ever been close to 220 or higher then the rings don’t have much temper left and you’ll have blowby. I know this from experience.

I really would seriously consider re-ringing it while you are this far into it and have the pistons out of the block in front of you.
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Oh I would never reuse rings especially not knowing how the engine had been used or how many miles it has.

If I go the rering route I'll splurge for a set of gapless rings.
 
Burning oil said:
What truck do you have that has a forged crank?

X2 on all the advise given.
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My stepside, which this engine will be going in. About 8 years ago I had the crank break right at the number 2 main journal. When I rebuilt it I spent the money for the forged crank. I got it from peninsular diesel, it wasnt cheap. I also have a fluid dampner. I wanted to be sure to not have crank issues ever again.

Hindsight being 20/20, I should of just dumped that block and bought a brand new engine at that point. But live and learn.
 
My bad. Was trying to follow the thread conversation and thought he was talking about a Scat crank, not a GEP forged. Still, $2,000 is BOHICA insane, even for a forged crank!
 
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