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P400 in the Burb install

When I corrected my thickness measurement with Mc Master Carr they said they can make one for 88.00, having trouble swallowing that right now.
 
Any idea where to get one of those double hump crankshaft keyways for a reasonable price? I could use a new keyway for the cam also and would like a new Harmonic balancer bolt.
 
@FellowTraveler and any moderator:
I tried to just pm you to not muddy the thread more, but clicking on his icon doesn’t have the “start conversation” box.
I was hoping you had before and after pics of your phaser pitting I could see for my amateur sleuthing. Also any pattern marking tests you may have. A huge part of my late Dad’s experience was figuring out root causes and I worked with a few engineers that it was part of their job.
 
I agree that the bushing that Leroy has @ 0.125 then hand work it down to 0.90 is a good way to go. I have done similar.
I just used a da sander with paper facing up in vice, tape the trigger on. Use air hose connector as power on/off. wear leather gloves. When you are close go to fine paper. Then last one or two thou- stick the da paper to a piece of glass and work in figure 8.
It will take some time/effort but save a chunk of cash.

The double keyway -think i saw on real4wd.com but check with Chris and Leroy first. Last I saw rockauto didn’t have them.
 
Hey thanks everyone, I was able to get the small parts I needed ordered from real4wd.com for a few dollars (thx Will) this morning. I dropped off the cam gear and thrust washer at a locall machine shop and they said they could have it done tomorrow for around 50 bucks. So with any luck if I get the billet crank pulley from Leroy by friday I may try to fire it up this weekend.
 
I'm thinking of installing a new power steering pump since its apart, the OEM P/N by VIN is 26037446 which seems to be discontinued. Any suggestions? I know I missed the slightly used PSC that FellowTraveler had for sale a while back. How well do the PSC units work? Mine is the original OEM one with 120K on it and works fine but is starting to leak a little.
 
I thought I may have heard that Pete Jackson may have made some but no confirmation of such. Thx for the reply Chris.
 
spdgofast said:
I'm thinking of installing a new power steering pump since its apart, the OEM P/N by VIN is 26037446 which seems to be discontinued. Any suggestions? I know I missed the slightly used PSC that FellowTraveler had for sale a while back. How well do the PSC units work? Mine is the original OEM one with 120K on it and works fine but is starting to leak a little.
Click to expand...
I've been using PSC products for many years now even on my Cummins never any issues but remember larger p/s cooler is required when using their higher presure p/s pumps. Now will be buying the newer 6 bolt cap steering gear assembly they offer to replace the pesky GM steering gear in the GMT400 series and Dodge Rams of that era.
 
Will L. said:
@FellowTraveler and any moderator:
I tried to just pm you to not muddy the thread more, but clicking on his icon doesn’t have the “start conversation” box.
I was hoping you had before and after pics of your phaser pitting I could see for my amateur sleuthing. Also any pattern marking tests you may have. A huge part of my late Dad’s experience was figuring out root causes and I worked with a few engineers that it was part of their job.
Click to expand...
I'll see if I have images archived, I basically had to give the gearset away because of cited issue.
 
spdgofast said:
I'm thinking of installing a new power steering pump since its apart, the OEM P/N by VIN is 26037446 which seems to be discontinued. Any suggestions? I know I missed the slightly used PSC that FellowTraveler had for sale a while back. How well do the PSC units work? Mine is the original OEM one with 120K on it and works fine but is starting to leak a little.
Click to expand...

I bought a new ps pump on amazon, Cardone Select 96-8735.

It looks and works just like the old one in my '95 K2500. However, note these two things- the two mounting studs on the back of the replacement pump are too short. Before tossing your old one, remove the studs with an impact and install in the new pump

Also, the replacement pulley offered on RockAuto doesn't totally fit either. It works, and I have it on mine, but this is the rub- the pulley when pressed on to the shaft all the way is not in line with the rest of the serpentine belt system. You need to press it on with the pump mounted to be sure it's in the same plane. If possible, re-use your old pulley. Don't be like me and get frustrated with the old pulley and remove with a 3 jaw puller and trash the thing. One thing I do like about the alleged replacement pulley from RockAuto is that it's not a solid piece, so you can reach through and remove the pump from the bracket without having to remove the pulley too. I replaced all hoses when doing mine, recommend it especially the line that threads into the pump, they rust out quick.
 
Psc is home run or strike out.
DO NOT get rid of your old one until everything is perfect with the new system for a few months.
Hummers run same pump and a few guys had issues with new pumps.

I agree while it is out is the best time. Just keep that safety net.
 
Well I just fired it up and now it's not firing on cyls 2 and 7. If you look back in the thread I had the same issue but with cylinders 1 and 8 with the first pump Constoga rebuilt with the .350 plungers, remember the one with 20 minutes of under 1200 rpm runtime that siezed the head & rotor and sheared the keyway on the cam gear that I just replaced. I'm starting to have serious doubts about Conestoga's work. It just sucks that it is so hard to find anyone that can build these pumps. Makes it hard to want to jump in a vehicle with one and drive across country. Even with a spare pump I'm told you can't let one sit with calibration fluid in it. I guess I have two choices, keep running it and hope it clears up and fear it is going to sieze another rotor, or pull the pump and send it back again before any major damage can be done. I guess maybe I'll have to put a stock pump and a small turbo back on it and throw all of the time and money that I've spent on the P400 and all of the mods out the window.
 
spdgofast said:
Well I just fired it up and now it's not firing on cyls 2 and 7. If you look back in the thread I had the same issue but with cylinders 1 and 8 with the first pump Constoga rebuilt with the .350 plungers, remember the one with 20 minutes of under 1200 rpm runtime that siezed the head & rotor and sheared the keyway on the cam gear that I just replaced. I'm starting to have serious doubts about Conestoga's work. It just sucks that it is so hard to find anyone that can build these pumps. Makes it hard to want to jump in a vehicle with one and drive across country. Even with a spare pump I'm told you can't let one sit with calibration fluid in it. I guess I have two choices, keep running it and hope it clears up and fear it is going to sieze another rotor, or pull the pump and send it back again before any major damage can be done. I guess maybe I'll have to put a stock pump and a small turbo back on it and throw all of the time and money that I've spent on the P400 and all of the mods out the window.
Click to expand...
What a damn shame......I say cut your losses!
 
This is frustrating to hear. I know the guy that built my pump no longer works at Conestoga, but they should still be able to build a pump that at least runs! It’s odd that both times you’ve had a problem it was with cylinders next to each other in the firing order. I don’t want to doubt your skills, but we all make mistakes......any chance you have those 2 lines swapped on the pump?
 
Nope, I just checked that again as well, it would be pretty hard to get those lines on wrong, atleast on mine I would have to try to cross a line. Does anyone know how these pumps go together that would cause this issue first with 1 & 8 and know with 2 & 7 ? Like you stated nate, they are next to each other in firing order.
 
Nope, I double checked that, my lines are all new so I would have to try hard to cross them. Does anyone know how these pumps are built and or what would cause this with the two consectutive firing lines doing the same thing? I had all of my injectors repopped by a local builder when I ran the first .350 Conestoga pump, then I sent the injectors to Conestoga and had him go through them again and reppop to 2250 psi, so Mel did my injectors and my pump this time. Maybe 6.2 turbo, Dennis, he knows alot about how these pumps work.
 
I was just cleaning up around my shop and I picked up the siezed .350 head & rotor and I was wondering who could possibly press it apart and possibly see what went wrong, maybe impossible to tell.
 
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