• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

New to me donor 6.2L engine

On the video I did some closeups around the engine hoping the audio comes through for the noises around the timing cover and IP as well as around the arse end too. I am guessing the temp got up to around 160. the oil pan was warm but not so hot you can't hold your hand on it.

I know and am taking in consideration what WW said about the cracks on the mains. I don't plan on doing an engine swap real quick like, but if it's worthy for keeping the 93 running a while. I would like to use it while taking my time going through it's engine, mainly fixing the blow by oil consumption. This 6.2 is showing some blow by but doesn't seem near as bad as the 93, maybe about par with my 95. it's also frankly all I have to work with considering how funding goes. But tell me what yall are thinking.
 
dbrannon79 said:
the drinkers side (turbo side) now has 4 short 6.5 injectors installed so they are not up against the manifold.
Click to expand...

Use two exhaust manifold gaskets and header wrap the manifold. Then the 6.2 injectors will work. Not easy to remove, but, will work. This way you have matched injectors IF the 6.2 injectors are good.

That's a lot of blowby. Combined with the rear main oil seal leak the engine could have worn bearings. A set of rings would help it a lot. You may as well put a chain on it: No question it's stretched out.

Again pull the 93's engine and see what you have first.
 
Yeah I'm sure it was steam now. Now that I've tried blowing some pressure into the cylinders and filling the block with water I think that part is ok now. it's the sputter and puffs of raw diesel as it's running I'm seeing coming out the manifolds from the funny idle.

I'm sure the timing is off and the chain is sloppy too. I think I might try bumping the IP just a smig one way or the other and see if that clears up so it can idle smooth.

before I can attempt to pull the engine from the 93, I need to make some changes to the homemade A-frame I built out of landscape timbers. and also get me a chain hoist instead of using a come-a-long.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yeah I'm sure it was steam now. Now that I've tried blowing some pressure into the cylinders and filling the block with water I think that part is ok now. it's the sputter and puffs of raw diesel as it's running I'm seeing coming out the manifolds from the funny idle.

I'm sure the timing is off and the chain is sloppy too. I think I might try bumping the IP just a smig one way or the other and see if that clears up so it can idle smooth.

before I can attempt to pull the engine from the 93, I need to make some changes to the homemade A-frame I built out of landscape timbers. and also get me a chain hoist instead of using a come-a-long.
Click to expand...
110 volt Electric hoist would be nice.

I could send You the timing chain and sprockets out of the engine from the 2000, if it would be a correct fit.
I can check the log, but, I doubt it is 15000 miles on that and probably less.
 
I think the timing sets are the same, not sure about the spacing though, I know the timing covers are different as well as the HB and the spacer behind them. If I do attempt to run this engine I will need to swap to the newer style timing cover, spacer/reluctor and HB so I will have the front crank sensor in the block.

all this is present on the 93's engine though there is a small coolant leak between the block and timing cover on it. kinda afraid to tear into it for this small leak since when I found the crossover on it had an ear broken and welded back in place! no telling what i'll find tearing the 93's engine apart!!
 
dbrannon79 said:
spacer/reluctor and HB so I will have the front crank sensor in the block.
Click to expand...
1993 doesn't need it. The water pump, reverse rotation or not, and it's backplate are a different. I have run a 6.2L cover on a 1993. I believe the chain oil splash deflector for the CDR was the only thing I left out of the 6.2 dropped into the 1993 because it wasn't needed. Other than the water pump there really isn't a difference to worry about.

The 1994+ DS4 do require a sensor. Even then I believe you can use a timing set from a DS4 on a 1993 with the spacer toothed wheel.
 
dbrannon79 said:
The reason mine needs it is due to the EZ-TCI trans controller needing the crank sensor.
Click to expand...

Can they also run this off the oil pump drive sensor the 1993's had? (And used for the factory ECM controlling the 4L80E)

Maybe whatever parts are in the best shape is the question as the oil pump drive sensor would crack the housing. (I sealed mine up with RTV.)
 
Yeah, mine has the oil pump drive sensor and is leaking oil. I'm actually afraid to pull it to try and seal the leak due to that little plastic coupler that mates the oil pump and it together. but back when I was trying to fix the TCM wires, I tried and could not get a signal from it. that's when I went for the front crank sensor instead. maybe there is a way to fix the oil pump drive sensor without replacing?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top