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New to me donor 6.2L engine

so with that said I can safely scout out a 14cm hx35 for when I get to finish up this 6.2 and it will be happier I take it?

I was thinking that the smaller engine have to have the rpms up to get any effect on that turbo.

personally I don't like the rpm to be up above 2500 on the freeway for an extended time. just one reason I still keep it under 65 even now since installing the 3.73 gears. it seems to like 21-2200ish cruising.

what about port matching with the intake, exhaust, and turbo mounting. Ive seen some youtube videos where they grind and smooth out the mount areas to match each others mating surfaces. is there any benefit to this? not actually "porting" the heads but just opening the areas and smoothing them iirc the videos I have seen did them about an inch or so into the ports from both sides.

I'm just gathering ideas and thoughts as I make a "to do list" when I actually start on it. Balancing the assembly is on the list. along with hoping I can convert it to mechanical finding a not to expensive trans controller.
 
You are stepping into chocolate vs vanilla preference here. Opinions are all over the place and I don’t know may that ever did dyno before/after without any other changes to show the difference. Even then doing a different turbo drastically changes how much it helps/hurts in different ranges.

Port matching and light porting doesn’t have much effect at lower rpm for diesels, That part is proven fairly well.

If you watch any of the performance shows for gas or Diesel engines they show where it helps the most is upper rpm and helps top horse power numbers more. The low end torque actually suffers a bit. And by upper, better flow really comes into play at 3500 rpm and up. Many gas engines don’t bother unless they are into 7,000 rpm.

If you are pushing high boost, then it helps more, but flow out of the engine through the turbo is more critical. Keep choked down exhaust or small turbo and it won’t matter what is happening in the engine.

Since we have dry intakes, smooth finish is more popular since we are not pulling fuel out of suspension. But if you run wmi, or propane/nitrous this becomes a negative because you now have a wet intake. Dimpled is proven the best but is insanely expensive.

Having Twisted steel performance do his cnc programed port is best option, trying to copy N8inator builf thread showing port job would be your best diy example.

Unshrouding the valves has far bigger impact, but you drop compression doing it. If running 21 pistons- then it’s a real good idea. You will get the same advantage doing the 1.7 rockers. Do both is obviously best. But this is where a person goes from just t it in to modifying everything to the Nth degree, because next step is roing the larger 6.2 valves.

But if you are running a small turbo like a 14 hx35- it is a lot of effort for low returns. When trying to get better flows- the turbo has the majority of impact. 5% bigger turbo beats 10% better flow every time.
 
Well it looks like I need to start putting more time into this donor engine checking to see if it will run and be a worthy replacement for my current one. Now that I have a spare starter that still somewhat works after installing a new powermaster on my truck.

the engine has been sitting on the stand in the back driveway for a while now. I had plugged every open hole, hose, and any openings I found so water could not enter the innards. well somehow that failed.

I was using the block to do a mock up mount of the new starter trying to make a better rear bracket to help support it on the engine in my truck with the damage to the block. well something told me "don't" flip it over on the stand. well that apparition thought came to light when I decided to pull the drain plug on the pan.... even though I had the pan off and all the oil was out, about 2 quarts of water drained out!!!! Oh 💩

I grabbed my can of WD-40 and pulled the glow plugs and sprayed the cylinders good just in case, looking at each glow plug tip, there was no indication of moisture. I looked over the entire engine to see where water could have gotten in. Couldn't find any other open area. The intake is sealed, turbo inlet is covered, oil pressure port is capped, fuel inlet and returns are capped. oil cap is in place. CDR is in place and seems tight in it's spot on the oil fill (no grommet on the valve cover) The engine had been covered with a tarp but it got torn up during a heavy storm a while back, but at the time I wasn't too worried since everything had been sealed.

I want to get a bore scope anyway, so I guess I need to look into the cylinders before I try turning it over. I guess for now I need to pull the pan back off and spray all the innards with WD, then pull the glow plugs again and turn the engine so if anything is in there, it will drain out.

The only placed I didn't seal off was the thermostat housing or the water pump where the radiator hoses connect. surly water didn't enter the block through there, if that's the case, this engine has a internal crack or blown head gasket.
 
I'm still running thoughts in my head on how that amount of water was able to get into the block. even the t-stat housing still has the stat installed and the neck is not facing up for water to "just pour in" the only opening that's facing up would be the oil fill cap. it's the metal type with the two ears like to old school SBC valve covers use. if water entered there it's not good but not as bad as it going though the cylinders and through the rings.

I might pull the pan back off tomorrow and see if there is any evidence it ran down that area where the timing chain is.
 
Decision to open the engine and consider rebuilding/ improvements or just cross fingers and run it.
Removing the pan tells you block cracking and clean out rust much better.
The oil pan gasket/ rtv offsets the scope cost. Then with it open on bottom you can plasti-gauge rod bearings, even replacing them with new or new coated ones.
Make decision about replacing main cap bolts (like head bolts should be one time use) with new bolts and you can drop in new bearings there also. A simple diy hand polish on the crank isn’t bad idea and cleaning those oil ports of rust/ grime. But removing the crank means front cover has to come off. But if you just do bearings you can lift crank enough to slip them under. Pop out the $8 front main seal for more room, and stop that oil leak because it happens. The rear main last I bought was $20.

Remove the oil pump and inspect/ clean it up really well or replace with HV pump.
Replace the plastic oil pump drive piece while thats out.
All that inspection and cleaning only costs some time and probably $25 for the resealing of the oil pan

Atf is your friend. Squirt some in the glow holes before cranking to help those rings / cylinders. Crank it by hand first couple revolutions.
If you don’t want to drop the pan- atf pumping through in place of engine oil. Using a drill run the oil pump and circulate it through the bearings before turning engine. The atf is basically 10wt, but you don’t need high numbers for a couple hundred rpm. All the detergent in there will help.
 
When I first inspected it with the pan off, there are cracks in the webbing. I figure it's a 50 50 shot if I try loosening the mains. not sure which way I should go there. I do know this engine has a manual trans behind it, so that alone might lean me more toward new bearings because of the thrust bearing.

I do want to get a compression test done before trying to open up the heads, also pressure test the cooling system too. this block had a two piece rear main seal also. if I do pull the crank for bearings, how hard it is for a shade tree mechanic like myself to do cam bearings?
 
Cracked mains changes everything. The 6.2 is a temporary, while you look for another option decision. I would NOT spend the time/money on trying to improve a time bomb.
Just get it ready to store then be used when needed.

Replace the oil filter. Put a short connector hose where the oil cooler normally connects. Fill the oil pan with 5 quarts of cheap atf dex3.
Pop off oil pump drive and rig in a drill to spin oil pump and spin that sucker for a couple minutes. Remount and oil pump drive. Right stuff is as good or better than gasket.
Squirt atf into the glow holes. Crank engine by hand two revolutions to ensure nothing hangs up. Then crank the engine with the starter. A mechanical oil pressure gauge is useful here if ya have one. Pull that plug where your 6.5 supplies oil to the turbo.
Best is use a grease gun hose you probably have already- and thread that in by hand (with No Fitting on end) and let it pump out 1/2 quart to a quart. Then put in the gauge or plug back up.
 
@Will L. I think you just summed up what all I need to do on it lol. since it has a db2 ip on it, I may also attempt a test fire to hear it run too. see if it doesn't have other issues.
 
I ran a cracked block without touching the main bolts. The cracks just got worse. I won the gamble as "something else" took out the engine.

The cracks were not as long as the one you have now. I wouldn't even run that one myself. Just not worth the bother of an engine swap for a crack that long.

Used engines are the same gamble on a "disposable engine" unless you go Optimizer or P400.

I would ask this place if they have any low mile 6.2 CUCV take out engines: it's where I had luck myself with two engines. The GM cast 6.2's will crack eventually. Advice about balance above may help.

www.boyceequipment.com

Boyce Equipment | Engines

www.boyceequipment.com www.boyceequipment.com
 
Member here HummerH1 recently bought another hmmwv at auction for under $5k it had only a few thousand miles on it (under 10k) and almost all of them have optimizers now. Personally I would have a hard time selling the rest as “parts” but a person could do that- new engine/trans and sell the rest to get back some cash. Or swap the newer engine for the old one and still sell it as a runable rig- just tell them what you did because many people are swapping the 6.5 for an LS anyways. So they might just play till it goes boom and not really care when it does.
 
Not terrible, just looked on that site and they show a 6.2 take out for 2k not sure if that is the one with the style heads I need or made for center mount turbos, but concidering that I have my 6.5 heads and the 6.2 heads. that shouldn't be an issue
 
No , the hole is in the vacuum pump housing just under the flange . Feeds oil under pressure up the shaft . This hole is very small , maybe 1/8 inch . I didn't see it at first and got soaked when I spun the shaft with the drill .
 
EWC said:
No , the hole is in the vacuum pump housing just under the flange . Feeds oil under pressure up the shaft . This hole is very small , maybe 1/8 inch . I didn't see it at first and got soaked when I spun the shaft with the drill .
Click to expand...
And this is some news I am looking for.
Now to find an oil pump drive adaptor.
I’ll see if the guy I bought my truck from has one. He seems to have quite a few spare parts.
 
on this 6.2 block, there isn't a port for the turbo oil line on the front end. it has a long line that goes over the intake over the the back side of the drivers head on the block.
 
I recently found a pair of 6.2s , one with a Banks kit . I also have a new in the box Banks for my 85 CC dually so I have some parts . An interesting note is the newer Banks has the plate behind the fuel pump for the turbo oil drain while the second kit locates the drain directly into the pan . Both of the kits have the long hose for the turbo oil feed that comes from the left rear of the engine .

The oil feed hole , for the vacuum pump , is in the groove that locates in the block . This completes the oil circuit along the lines of the SBC and BBC engines . If you were to just spin the pump , I doubt there would be any oil pressure . Probably see some oil shooting out of the holes for lubing the lifters . Following the oil circuit allows one to see the lifters get lubed first and then on to the mains . So just because you might have oil pressure , that does not mean the oil is where it needs to be .
 
Just call them and ask for pictures.
The intake manifold looks same then same style heads as trucks. The n/a hmmwvs have truck heads and intake.

If it is one they removed the intake from- ask them to screw in a bolt and take pics. That angle tells if it is truck heads or is center mount heads. Pointed straight up is center mount heads.

If they are crack free 6.2 heads, some guys prefer those because of the larger valves.


About the primer tool… I used to use a 6mm socket on an extension (1/4 drive) and run my cordless. I just wrapped a lint free shop rag around the shaft, avoided oil fine.
But doing that method only lubes bottom end. It won’t lube cam, lifters, rocker arms.

At junkyard grab an old drive unit and remove the gear that meshes with the camshaft, pop the Top and go. It has to be an ess or vacuum pump type- not the flush one.

OR- just rent the one from Leroy.

In your case of water in there- doing the socket and rag trick is better than nothing. You could even start out with diesel fuel in the pan to clean every thing, then drain it and use oil or atf after that.
 
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