• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

New to me donor 6.2L engine

Well guys, I'm reviving this old thread. I didn't realize just how long it's been since I brought this engine home!

catching up to now, I finally got it put together enough to test fire the engine. Has stolen some parts off from it for the 93 truck like the top cover to the IP among other things.

installed a new fuel shutoff solenoid I ordered from amazon into the IP top cover and verified it worked. then test fired it. it took a few times over the coarse of a few days but it runs.

the engine lops around at idle and then smooths out as you increase the throttle. oil pressure stays at a constant 40psi cold (only ran it a total of about 5 minutes), no knocking yet. I also confirmed it has long body injectors comparing to some others I have, the line nuts are up against the turbo side manifold.

Here is two videos of it running..


 
Not sure what is causing the engine to lop at idle, I am assuming it's the injectors. I do have a large coffee can of old used injectors from the stash of pars I received when I brought the 93 truck home. I thought about pulling the intake and GP's out, then loosening the lines at the IP so I can rotate them up a bit, remove the injectors from the heads and pull the turbo side manifold off. then spin the engine with the starter watching the spray pattern on the injectors. maybe even try some of the used ones and see if I can get a set that still spray decently to try.

I would like to rig up a cooling system on it and run it up to get some heat in the engine and see what the oil pressure does and watch the blow by.

I have a spare radiator and lower hose, I think I have another hose I can make work for the upper too. plug off the heater hose ports. That should get me a cooling system but I need to figure out how I can drive the water pump.

I don't have an alternator or compressor to mount for the belt, also the crank pulley is fubar. all the rubber is shredded.

I was thinking about taking it and tacking a weld on all four of the steel spokes in the pulley just to allow it to drive the water pump and figure out a belt to run between the pump and crank pulley ( that is if it will rotate the correct direction just tieing the two together like that).

Maybe others can tell me if tack welding the crank pulley and running something between the pump and crank will work just to get some heat in it.

if not, then I guess it will be a garden hose from the faucet and a makeshift hose out to the yard watering the grass LOL.

Here is a pic of the crank pulley that was on this engine.

IMG_5577.jpg
 
dbrannon79 said:
micro grove. it uses a serpentine belt.
Click to expand...
I one time seen someone use the leg from a pantyhose, stretched around the pulleys with a knotttt. That got them home.
The difference here would be to put a X in the panty hose so it drives the coolant pump CCW.
IDK how well it would work, might just jump offa duh pulleys too.
The old steam and farm tractors drove the different implements with a belt and had to give the belt a flip to create that opposite direction of drive in order for the threshing machine or sawmill to spin in the proper direction.
On those though, there was belt slap if the belt was not X so that it would rub in the middle and stabilize the belt from slapping and jumping off the sheaves.
Would not have that problem with the experimental belt slapping, just getting the drive in the proper direction.
 
Well I started up the engine this afternoon to show a friend that I had it running. then when I shut it off after running for maybe a minuet i saw something I didn't like....

There was some exhaust gases slowly coming from both heads at where the thermostat crossover mounts..... I assume head gaskets or cracked heads??
 
With this engine on the stand and not having a real way to connect a cooling system as if it was sitting in an engine bay I don't know how I can verify this without dismantling it.

I mean maybe if I could find enough parts to seal up the cooling system air tight and pressurize it some with my compressor, pulling each GP out and listen for air coming out of the holes might confirm it but again I'm not sure if even that would work. This would mean I need to install a crossover and get rubber caps for the t-stat housing and water pump hose connections. then plumb into a water jacket on the block with an air regulator.

anyone have any advice on this?
 
dbrannon79 said:
With this engine on the stand and not having a real way to connect a cooling system as if it was sitting in an engine bay I don't know how I can verify this without dismantling it.

I mean maybe if I could find enough parts to seal up the cooling system air tight and pressurize it some with my compressor, pulling each GP out and listen for air coming out of the holes might confirm it but again I'm not sure if even that would work. This would mean I need to install a crossover and get rubber caps for the t-stat housing and water pump hose connections. then plumb into a water jacket on the block with an air regulator.

anyone have any advice on this?
Click to expand...
How bout the tool rental/loan department at the big box stores ?
Borrow a leak down detector. Then listen through the thermostat cross over ports.
 
Are you 100% it was exhaust gasses not crusty rusty coolant steaming off from it heat up?

What you do is a leak down test. Out here parts stores (Oriellys, autozone, etc) that do the ‘free’ rental where you pay for the tool then return it for $ back- rent out the leak down tester.

The faster way is if you have the glowplug adapter for compression testing- hook up an air compressor and charge it to max of compressor. By rigging the adapter to the air hose. Listen for air leaking into the coolant chambers.

Or go the other way- take a radiator hose and connect waterpump up to the thermostat housing. Doesn’t matter if the hose kinks.
Plug off all the other water holes in the head with the block off plates. fill with the garden hose. Then rig a air hose fitting to a heater hose going to the crossover connection point that normally goes to the heater. Get it full of water and add 20 psi. The water should make its way to the cylinder if there is a problem. With glow plugs out and ip not powered-spin the engine. Any water comes out the glow plug hole
 
Parts stores around here do rent tools but are limited on what they have. I will have to check and see if they have such an animal. I doubt the block has any moisture in it but it could. it's been sitting covered up on the stand for months, and before that I have rotated the engine on the stand when I had pulled the pan.

I could try running the lower hose up to the crossover (need to install that first to the block) and fill with water. the CTS hole on the head is open, no sensor there, can plug it or maybe thread a fitting there for my compressor and plug off the heater hose connection (use that with a short hose to fill the block up).

I recall someone on here mentioning that one can fill the block with water with the crossover off so the water level is at those ports and run the engine looking for bubbling or it pushing the water out. I could do that too but need to fix the funny idle issue so it runs smooth without needing to increase the rpm first. otherwise the loping idle would shake a lot of water out! or on the other hand pull the GP's out, fill the block up to the open ports of the crossover and then use my blow gun at each GP hole and see if water rises out of the open ports.

would that possibly work?
 
dbrannon79 said:
Parts stores around here do rent tools but are limited on what they have. I will have to check and see if they have such an animal. I doubt the block has any moisture in it but it could. it's been sitting covered up on the stand for months, and before that I have rotated the engine on the stand when I had pulled the pan.

I could try running the lower hose up to the crossover (need to install that first to the block) and fill with water. the CTS hole on the head is open, no sensor there, can plug it or maybe thread a fitting there for my compressor and plug off the heater hose connection (use that with a short hose to fill the block up).

I recall someone on here mentioning that one can fill the block with water with the crossover off so the water level is at those ports and run the engine looking for bubbling or it pushing the water out. I could do that too but need to fix the funny idle issue so it runs smooth without needing to increase the rpm first. otherwise the loping idle would shake a lot of water out! or on the other hand pull the GP's out, fill the block up to the open ports of the crossover and then use my blow gun at each GP hole and see if water rises out of the open ports.

would that possibly work?
Click to expand...
With the cross over removed, block filled with water, pressure through the GP hole, most likely if a head is cracked it would tell tale with just air bubbles on that side.
 
I will probably give that a shot tomorrow. the good thing is if the heads have to go, I do have the engine in the 93 I can possibly use the heads from. That is if all else checks out and the engine will be any better than the one that's in it. I will just have to spend more $$ to get a full engine gasket set instead of just the outer covers and whatnot including new head bolts.

as long as it runs decently and the blow by isn't so perfuse that it blows out oil like the engine in the 93 does. I'm in the hopes that at some point I can go though the 93's engine rebuilding it. if the mains aren't cracked it might have a chance at new rings and a cylinder hone job.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I've been reading up on turbos with 6.2's and I see other forums are saying it's not a good idea to have one on a 6.2 unless the precups are changed and pistons are coated preventing a melt down.
Click to expand...

Ah HAHAHAH, Gasp Choke, Ah HAHAHA!!! I missed this years ago. 🤪

HX40II and ATT with a spool valve in hot AZ heat on a 6.2 longblock... NA small precups and plain non-coated pistons. I ran synthetic engine oil: Otherwise lack of piston coating WILL ruin the engine oil in 1000 miles. (Out of grade too thick.) The small precups smoke more when you are trying to pour the fuel on. Otherwise it really doesn't make a difference as I expect you are not working or hot rodding the engine as hard or in the extreme heat.

It's a non-issue for what you are doing. I doubt you need synthetic oil either.

dbrannon79 said:
I recall someone on here mentioning that one can fill the block with water with the crossover off so the water level is at those ports and run the engine looking for bubbling or it pushing the water out. I could do that too but need to fix the funny idle issue so it runs smooth without needing to increase the rpm first.
Click to expand...

Likely me from what dad taught me. We did this in 1994 on our 1988 6.2L Suburban to find a cracked driver side head.

Yes plug the cooling system except the head ports in the front. Fill it and watch for bubbles.

Myself I suggest pulling the engine on the 1993 and seeing if the block is crack free or at least less crack length. IMO this 6.2 block is cracked worse than the one I used. (The crack is longer.) They only get worse. I wouldn't bother putting this one in at all. After all you pull the 93 engine anyway and it's only a few bolts to check the mains for cracks.

Gapless rings allow you to deglaze the cylinder and slam new rings in not caring about condition otherwise. They stop that much blowby.

One thing I hadn't considered was dropping a 350 or 454 in place of the diesel. Maybe I should have.
 
Well this morning I went out and tried checking for head gasket/crack woes.

Attached a lower rad hose and tied it up so its other end was higher than the heads. Plugged off water ports and filled the block with water.

At first I almost 💩 a brick, I kept filling and filling and it seemed like this block had a bottomless pit! Stopped and figured I better check the oil…. It was now slightly over full and I said “shit”. Then thought I had just rotated the engine so it was level and not leaning over like it was. Continued filling and finally the heads were up to the brim with water. Checked the oil again and it was at the same level. Left it sit for a while doing other things in the house. Came back to see it was still at the brim. Pulled out the GP’s and commenced pressurizing each cylinder one by one and rotating the crank for the compression stroke. No bubbles or rising water. YAY!
 
Next I started pulling the exhaust manifold turbo side so I could get to the injectors since these are the long body ones. Got that off then pulled the intake. Boy I tell ya the previous owner of this engine was a firm believer of everlasting RTV silicone!! Look at the intake ports on the heads and how much I pulled from the block! I haven’t even touched what’s on the intake!

I also very carefully removed the intake gaskets in the hopes of reusing them putting it back together in order to run this engine up to temp.

IMG_5581.jpegIMG_5582.jpegIMG_5583.jpegIMG_5584.jpeg
 
Well I've been steadily going through the pile of injectors I have that came from when I got the 93 truck. picked out a few that looked decent. attached them to injector lines and cranked the engine watching for spray patterns. after going though about 12 different ones I think I have at least 4 with decent spray patterns. I can at least use these in the turbo side head so there not up against the manifold.

I will move to the other side of the engine and test the long ones making sure they all spray a mist and not streams, pick out 4 and run them on that side for the time being. Then clean up the intake and put things back together so I can run water through it and try warming up the engine.
 
Got it all buttoned back up and plumbed in the water hose from the faucet. Went in at the lower rad house and connected a drain hose to the heater hose bib on the crossover. Time to fire it up and let it run a while.

image.jpg
 
Well it runs... still has a funny idle and spits and sputters some. I ended up having to adjust the idle screw a good amount for it to start up on it's own. not sure what that was all about. before adjusting the idle screw, it would crank and fire off and immediately die every time just as before. If I held the throttle up some it would fire up and run but releasing the throttle it would do the same lopping around. increasing the idle screw seemed to help this. also had to pull the top of the IP back off and use a tiny amount of sealant (not silicone) on the seal as it was leaking fuel into the valley.

the drinkers side (turbo side) now has 4 short 6.5 injectors installed so they are not up against the manifold. replaced the broken return hoses too. I would have done the other side with the short injectors but I ran out of the tiny return hose and needed two more loops between injectors. Not sure the difference between the long body and short body other than the length, but I'm sure this might account for some of the stumbling though it was doing this prior to me changing the injectors.

I ran the engine for about 35 minutes while I let the water faucet flow slowly sending the runoff down the driveway. I kept feeling the water coming out of the engine and feeling the ends of the heads and crossover checking to make sure it wasn't getting too hot. I misplaced my temp gun HAHA.

as it warmed up the oil pressure settled around 32 psi as well as the rear main started to sling a small amount of oil too. it has the two piece type that will need to be replaced. I also noticed some slight noises around the timing cover and up around the IP indicating the timing chain might be sloppy or the timing is off. I wonder if timing has anything to do with the loppy low idle and sputters it has. I have not touched the timing since bringing the engine home. No noticeable knocking from the engine or even the injectors and valve train. that part seems to be quieter that both of my trucks.

Here is a 3 minute video I had my son help with showing it running after I had ran it for the 35 or so minutes. It also drank about a quart of fuel from the bottle I have hanging above the engine.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top