New Holland L35 skid steer loader revival

[BIGR]

Very nice work your doing n8in8or.

I wished I was talented as you are and had the knack to build things like that.

 

[n8in8or]

Yes those guys got you in the right direction. Very important to leak test tanks/vessels prior to final restoration, sometimes those pinholes are hard to spot.

Any info on the neat looking simplicity in the upper pics? How does it plow with those front tires?

Yep, I'm glad it was mentioned since I hadn't even thought about it, but it totally makes sense that I get any leaks taken care of now before it gets paint on it and more importantly gas in it.

The Simplicity is a 1974 7016H. It has a 16hp Briggs and a hydrostatic axle. I have 2 of them - this one has ag tires on it and I leave the plow on it year-round for any yard work that needs to be done. The other one has a deck on it and is my yard tractor. Sometimes it gets a snowblower attached to it when snow is really bad, but usually I just plow because I hate snow blowing back in my face.

The front tires look cool, but they don't really perform as well as I had hoped. They would work well in soft dirt, and in deep snow they're fine, but for plowing the driveway they don't really make a difference. I just got some front chains to try on them to see how those perform.

 

[n8in8or]

Very nice work your doing n8in8or.

I wished I was talented as you are and had the knack to build things like that.

Thank you for the compliment. I feel like most people could do this stuff, they just need to try - and you get better the more you do it.....learning from earlier mistakes is key. It really helped that I worked as a welder/fabricator for a couple years - I learned a lot on the job.

 

[Husker6.5]

Rust sucks. I started cleaning up the gas tank and of course it’s worse than I thought....in fact, I found a hole. So I start looking it over and there are a lot of suspect parts. A new tank is $230, so that’s not happening. I did a quick search for something plastic and of course they all need adapting and will fit weird and still cost at least $75. So I guess I’m fixing this one. At least the inside doesn’t look bad. So far I have the rusty bits cut out. Patching to commence soon. View attachment 51913View attachment 51914View attachment 51915View attachment 51916View attachment 51917

Hey, Nate, fuel tanks and cheap! What size capacity do you need? 2 gallon? 5 gallon? 3 quart?
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Engines/Engine-Accessories/Fuel-Tanks-Caps/

 

[Husker6.5]

Or, try Speedway Motors' site, look in their racing and street rod sections for fuel tanks

 

[n8in8or]

Hey, Nate, fuel tanks and cheap! What size capacity do you need? 2 gallon? 5 gallon? 3 quart?
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Engines/Engine-Accessories/Fuel-Tanks-Caps/

I needed about 18 gallon. I did some quick searching (not at either of those places) and the best I was finding was around $75....then I was going to have to spend time adapting the machine or the tank.....so I figured repairing this one was my best option. So far I have about $5 and 3 hours into the repair.

 

[Husker6.5]

I needed about 18 gallon. I did some quick searching (not at either of those places) and the best I was finding was around $75....then I was going to have to spend time adapting the machine or the tank.....so I figured repairing this one was my best option. So far I have about $5 and 3 hours into the repair.

You may want to use a tank coating on the inside of that after you're done welding on it. Cheap insurance against a thin spot that wouuldn't show up on a pressure test, but would corrode through in a couple of years time.

 

[Will L.]

Fuel tanks are supposed to be hydrostatic tested two 150% of its working load. For the theoretical load on your tank, use the fuel pump capacity so if any pressure relief system fails that is what it will be subject to.
A 10 psi pump means the tank needs to be tested at 15 psi. Fill the tank with water, race pressure to 15 psi either with the water being supplied through a garden hose, or air pressure. Let it stand three hours with NO added new pressure. Should maintain that pressure.


I was certified to build new and to weld on existing fuel tanks. There were fuel tanks that I built for vehicles that had to be tested at 300 psi. There is no set pressure to test at, however the shape of that tank tells me you will not be over 20 PSI constant, or the walls will start bulging out on that.

If you were trying to just take a guesstimate, raise the pressure one psi at a time, until you start to see a wall deflect and stop there. Then release the pressure and test at a level lower than the deflection by 10%. Meaning that tank is good for less as constant use because of the 150% rate.

This is by the way, why most thanks had a vented cap For so many years.

 

[ak diesel driver]

You would only use that kind of pressure with water. Definitely not air, whole different animal with air.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I pressure checked an old tank that was rated for 250 psi, filled it with water and than adapted a new grease gun filled it with water and took it to 300 psi. No air at all. Probably a 150-200 gallon vertical tank, I sat right on top of it to do it.

 

[n8in8or]

Well suck. So much for my welds being tied together well. I have quite a few pinhole leaks. Sure wish I had a TIG welder right about now. Lots of grinding and welding to do now and then check it all again. I have a cooling system pressure tester, so I’m going to see if one of the adapters will attach to the filler neck so I can use that to pressurize the tank and use soapy water.

 

[Husker6.5]

I think the expression is, "Oh shit!"

 

[MrMarty51]

Might try soldering the pinholes.
Now that the rust is gone solder should hold quite well.

 

[ak diesel driver]

at least no paint or fuel to deal with now

 

[n8in8or]

I think the expression is, "Oh shit!"

I’m just glad I had you guys to warn me so I didn’t get too far along.

 

[Will L.]

Yes annoying, but better to fond out now than later.

And yes to the radiator pressure tester. You fill it all the way with water then add the pressure with the tester.

For the welding, focusing on as few start and stops as possible is major. Grind out enough of the weld to clear all porosity. Avoid a large whipping pattern to weld over the leaks- that is a common mistake when learning. Running a simple drag pattern or simple small zigzag with 1 second pause on both sides works well. A couple of passes that are tight narrow passes seal better than one wide pass.

I would Not solder, because welding through the leak joins all the metal, but soldering on sits atop the base metal. So if after a lot of vibration , the leak that hasn’t been fixed now is only covered by the solder in top could leak through.

 

[n8in8or]

Might try soldering the pinholes.
Now that the rust is gone solder should hold quite well.

Yeah, I was thinking that, too. Hmmm, maybe I’ll give that a try. I’m pretty sure the radiator shop fixed my Caddy tank by soldering.

 

[n8in8or]

Yes annoying, but better to fond out now than later.

And yes to the radiator pressure tester. You fill it all the way with water then add the pressure with the tester.

For the welding, focusing on as few start and stops as possible is major. Grind out enough of the weld to clear all porosity. Avoid a large whipping pattern to weld over the leaks- that is a common mistake when learning. Running a simple drag pattern or simple small zigzag with 1 second pause on both sides works well. A couple of passes that are tight narrow passes seal better than one wide pass.

I would Not solder, because welding through the leak joins all the metal, but soldering on sits atop the base metal. So if after a lot of vibration , the leak that hasn’t been fixed now is only covered by the solder in top could leak through.

Ok. Grind and weld it is.

 

[n8in8or]

Ok. First round is done. I ground the leakers out with my Dynafile and then laid a bead over that spot. Turned the wire speed down a touch so it would burn in more. I didn’t have any adapters that would make the cooling system tester attach to the tank so I just filled with water again for now. I’ll see what else I can come up with in the meantime. I may also get some of this stuff to coat the inside. I can pick it up at O’Reilly. Red Kote Quart Coat Gas Fuel Tank Sealer Liner Gas Oil Diesel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X0JOSM/?tag=jhdiesel-20

 

[ak diesel driver]

didn't realize there were so many