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new engine for the old girl

devildogadam

Active Member
Messages
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Location
Yakima WA
Well on my trip I did in my engine for good. so this thread will be about what happened to the old motor and what's going into the new motor before it gets stuffed back in. I don't want to cut corners but am now in quite the jam considering I was driving my truck because the family vehicle is falling apart. So now I am scrambling to get one dependable vehicle back up.

Possible got lucky at the local scrap yard as I picked up what the call an engine core.
It is a 506 block but also has the Navistar triangles in the valley.
Talking to another member, he said it could be the optimizer block. And being just a stones throw away from a military I think it could be a hummer take out. It turns over freely as far as I can tell. I am going to try to get it on my stand tonight then start taking it apart.
 
OK tell me if this is an optimizer...
So far I feel like I paid $350 for them to put a sharp stick in my eye.

Good:
It has diamond precups,
A crankshaft that is in one piece
inside looks brand new.......

Bad:
Hairline cracks between all the valves
Three cracked pistons

From what I can tell I was just rebuilt and whomever put the head on must have only done the initial torque and not done the rest of the job or just didn't torque the heads at all. When I pulled then off 95% of the head bolts where barely more than hand tight.

This resulted in head gasket failure and must have hydro-locked the motor... which resulted in three cracked pistons..

Lesson for whomever put this engine together:
Use a calibrated torque wrench! And follow all torque specs.
 

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So here are a bunch of pics as I tore it down.

The last one is of a 6.0 that recently blew it's heads because of a tune and no studs. It is only up there to make me feel better
 

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That ford is really not wanting to be up on this forum.
 

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So now the plan is to pull my motor out and see what the damage is and try to swap good parts to make one complete good motor. I do have a few questions.

Where can I find gap less rings?
And what is the part number for the high output water pump?
 
Total seal is the company. You can either send them your rings or buy theirs. Personally I'd send them your rings it would be cheaper but not faster. On the WP do you want the bolt on or spin on fan clutch?
 
Yes it's an optimizer. I think your diagnosis is on the money with the head bolts like that, only my bet is they reused the one use only head bolts- happens a lot.

When your throwing in new rings and undoubtably lower bearings, I would say do not skip the cam bearings. Ask me why- there's a center cam bearing in my cab from my optimizer.
 
IIRC, Leroy just showed a P-400 with the Navistar logo 90* to that one, so probably an earlier generation Optimizer.

I'd get that block checked for cracks.
 
The rods in that engine are likely bent from hydro locking. I would use ARP head studs and seal their threads to the block with blue locktight.Coolant kills bearings quick so X2 on replace them all.
Regardless you got a good deal on the block and other parts.

Gapless rings:

You will need to file fit the rings and there is a posting on here as some members recently did that. So figure tools to file fit and measure rings if you don't already have them.

Part number is S5565. Double check with Total Seal as it lists only for a 6.2 (379) and 379 turbo, but, others have installed gapless in 6.5's so it is just confusing listing from TS.
http://www.totalseal.com/
Jegs has them - but they are made to order.

You can also buy them direct.
TOTALSEAL, INC
22642 NORTH 15 TH AVENUE PHOENIX AZ 85027
800 - 874 2753
 
WarWagon has so much knowledge that I really hesitate to suggest anything different. But it appears the Total Seal website lists our 6.5 engines under "VIN F, S, Y INCL TURBO" with a bore size of 4.055. The part number for the gapless second ring sets appears to be S4474 and seems to be available in std and 20, 30, and 40 over. Bottom line, I would double check, or order from Leroy who regularly sells them.
 
I have a set of gapless rings here in stock for standard bore if needed I can ship them with the head studs you bought.

What is the circular shape on the piston? looks like valve contact?
 
The heads all crack between the valves and doesn't necessarily mean they are bad.

I have a good set of STD 97 pistons if you need them. Just pulled them from a motor I got that seized a rod.
 

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I am in need of the water pump with the bolt on fan clutch. Just spent the day cleaning the garage getting ready for all that will happen in there over the next few days. Tonight I start the pull.
 
WarWagon has so much knowledge that I really hesitate to suggest anything different. But it appears the Total Seal website lists our 6.5 engines under "VIN F, S, Y INCL TURBO" with a bore size of 4.055. The part number for the gapless second ring sets appears to be S4474 and seems to be available in std and 20, 30, and 40 over. Bottom line, I would double check, or order from Leroy who regularly sells them.

Leroy needs to add this part to his website... Never hesitate to suggest something different as a second set of eyes helps.
 
I have the Total Seal logo! Did you want an actual listing or something? :D

My price for Mahle gapless is $299.
 
I have the Total Seal logo! Did you want an actual listing or something? :D

My price for Mahle gapless is $299.

And that is when the fight started. Suggesting a competitor to my local Phoenix, AZ TotalSeal company... o_O
 
I have a few other products to add as well. I'll do it soon, the weather is to nice to be inside all day today.
 
Rechecked all the Pistons. That circle mark in the picture is just a weird camera flash.?
There is no marks like that to the naked eye
 
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