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Need new cyl head fast

Great news! I've been following this thread closely and am pleased at your last post. Best to you on this! Sounds like you're on the right road now.

TD, you're right. Up here, most vehicles are rotted away in short order. About 4-5 years ago, they started using a pre-snow chemical that is hygroscopic and has caused exponential rotting on vehicles because of it. Smith Dairy won't purchase any equipment that's ever been north of the Mason-Dixon Line. Trucklite is seeing more corrosion problems that they've ever seen in their history because of this stuff. Honestly, it's the only reason my truck sits in the winter. It came from Arkansas. I drive my sacrificial annode (as Minisub would say) to keep the stuff off of it.

Dad's '01 Duramax hasn't seen a winter since 2004/2005 and it has rust trying to poke through under the paint in the driver side cab corner.
 
YEp same here. The stuff looks nuclear. The only things you can do besides not drive in the winter are coat the chassis with Por15 and make sure you go to the car wash or power wash it after every storm.
 
Gonna possibly tackle this Sat if nothing else breaks down in hte interim. The Monster Jam is at the racetrack in town Sunday so I have a promise to keep for my son. No wrenching Sunday.
 
Let us know how it goes. Put big wheels on and enter it in the Monster Jam on Sunday.

They started using that chemical around here acouple years ago. They put it on before the storm. Actually I think more accidents are caused from using it. It seems to get slippery when it snows on it.
 
kenny

i used thread sealant thats made by permatex its white and comes in a small tube i have heard it works well still havent got the motor finished yet but people i talked to said that it workes well.
in the arp instructions they say to only put them in hand tight untill the head is on. i would do it, i didnt with the first head and it was really hard to get the gaskete and the head on, i think what happens is the way the rolled threads are they cock the studs slightly when they are tightend. after i had the second head on i used the allen wrench and snugged up the studs in the block before putting the washers and nuts on, that side when much better. dont forget to run a thread chaser down the threads in the block makes the studs go in alot better
 
Kenny when I did mine I also used the permatex thread sealer. No problems a year later. As for install you cant put the studs in first, when doing this incahssis. There just aint enough room, to be able to pick the hea up high enough to let it slide down the studs. The ones could throw you off are............ the two that go through the dowel pins, they thread down into the block about an 1/8" or so deeper. Kinda threw me off till I checked on here. :grouphug: The other thing I did, I put permatex anerobic sealer around the water passages on both sides of the gaskets. Mainly because there was no machine work done on either block or head and they were used. Good luck kenny definetly try the engine hoist to raise the head in and out if you can big help for sure.

Have fun with your son, priorities are a must....
 
625fireman said:
The other thing I did, I put permatex anerobic sealer around the water passages on both sides of the gaskets. Mainly because there was no machine work done on either block or head and they were used.
Click to expand...

have you tried the loctite 272?

it is high strength and High temp...

It is what they use to seal the injector cups to the heads on the Duramax
 
I just used the gray silicone/sealant from gm. If I remember right some of the holes are dead ended? And some of the holes went all the way through? I was told not to use anything on the holes that were dead ended. It's been acouple years since I put heads on mine though. I didn't have any problems once I finished with it though. But yea a hoist might work the best. My back killed me for a week after I installed them. Mabey get someone to help you lift it out and put it back in place.
 
got an ECM reflash and TM coming from Heath next week so maybe a FTB is in order while the manifold is off. It will be the New and improved FTB with better fitting than have been used in the past. A Raptor will be on the wish list after I get some fuel readings from the FTB.
 
guybb3 said:
Green?
Click to expand...


current GM specs from Henry(ripmf666) is that 272 is the current use foe injector cups (High strength high temp)

Is the 272 green? the bottle is red... I haven't bought it yet for my rebuild, so I don't have a bottle in hand to look...
 
Well as a few of you remember, we had a little get together at my house with TD, CT Chevy and Matt and wrote a new chapter in PMD failure. I think the PMD that failed was a D Tech. This ain't no stanadyne. Bill, you'll get you chance to find out if it was the problem cause I'm gonna remove it off the IP while the head is off. There is no problem with not having a PMD at all on the IP right ? I want to experiment on it. If it is a D Tech which I think it is, so much for it being better. It failed just as easliy as a Stanadyne. I realize it's mounted on the IP and not a heatsink , but IIRC the rep boasted on the old site that it was designed to be mounted on the IP and take the heat. BS.
 

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Ironically this is the head I broke the glowplug off in too so I guess I'll attend to that as well. I will pull the glows out before removing the head but I was contemplteing leaving the Injs in. They should be OK no ? I have them covered real well with plastic plugs. Word of advice...when you buy new or reman injs , save the little caps they come with. They come in handy. They also fit the IP.
 
Ask the machine shop they may want them out. It would be cheaper for you to pull instead of them. As for the PMD on the pump you dont need it there. There is nothing but flat alumium behind it . Mine has been off for years.

Pepp as for the loctite I have used the red loctite but not in the case you asked.
 
I'm gonna try drilling it myself tommorw after the head is off. I think once I can get it into my drill press I can get it. Just can't get enough straight pressure with a hand held drill.
 
Why not just take out the INJectors?

Probably help in the GP removal too. Good luck with that. I think you'll have better luck with the head out for sure.

Perfect wrenching weather. Even better with a few Vicodan :):thumbsup:
 
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