ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I'm at 14 already, should I crank it up some more? LOL
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My new truck
- Thread starter ak diesel driver
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Haha, heck yeah- 50!!! No, I know you are maxed out. I meant Pruitt making sure he is to try helping his.
You should just use your snow shovel....
Pruittx2
Been around a bit
95 OBD1 db4 here,, don't think I can up the pressure, or can I?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Sorry I missed this. 95 should have a ds4 (unless you converted) and yes you can up the pressure. You can safely go to at least 14 PSI. Depends on whose literature you look at for higher than that.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Got my rad from Chris today. Nice looking unit. Hopefully be installing it in the next couple of weeks. Along with an IP and crossover I got from speedgofast and a whole box of front end parts
Hink
Overkill Is Underrated
That shore looks purdy.
Hink
Overkill Is Underrated
Btw, Chris suggested I put this in the place of the drain on mine.
I thought it was a great idea if it would help extend the life of this radiator for $10.
https://amzn.to/2qFAi7H
I thought it was a great idea if it would help extend the life of this radiator for $10.
https://amzn.to/2qFAi7H
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
wondering where, on a closed system like our trucks have, all the sacrificial anode would go when it was eaten up?
I brazed a bolt on mine & grounded it to the frame, is this necessary, I don't know but can't hurt.
I have had mine 2 years now but haven't taken it out to see if it looks any different from new...
I have had mine 2 years now but haven't taken it out to see if it looks any different from new...
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
so wouldn't that braze create a galvanic corrosion spot with dissimilar meterials?
the plug body is brass, I used a brass bolt and brazed it to the flat on the cap so I don't think it will bother anything... the anode screws into the plug and can be replaced if needed..
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
waiting on parts for the plow truck and I needed to work on my burb and escort so it went out and they went in. now I have my truck in the shop. Doing a complete front end rebuild, so far I have the ball joints done.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
So just finished up the front end on my truck. Still needs an alignment but it's close enough to get me there. So now I have newer wheel bearings and all new ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm. Idler arm came with a grease line so you can grease it without having to remove the skid shield, cool ,I was actually considering doing that. Next up is the crossover. Then IP
BIGR
Lucky To Be Here
Get it done, there is nothing to do outside its so cold. Great work.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Actually have a house I'm working on too.
BIGR
Lucky To Be Here
I hope it's all indoor work.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
for now it is.
Got the crossover, on I was hoping the slip joint would give me some more wiggle room. It did give me some but not as much as I'd have liked. Now to get a band clamp for the slip joint
Got the crossover, on I was hoping the slip joint would give me some more wiggle room. It did give me some but not as much as I'd have liked. Now to get a band clamp for the slip joint
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
next project will be a combo project, my new rad from Chris and the IP. Figured the IP would be slightly easier with the fan and such out of the way.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Ya know, something I do different than most when changing the ip is DONT remove the lines from the ip.
Pop the intake off.
Undo the nuts from injectors and wiggle free. Undo the 2 nuts (each side) on the valve covers that the lines mount to.
Then oil fill and 3 bolts inside, 3 adjuster nuts that are fun to reach, and wiggle the ip free of the gasket. Pull the ip with the 8 legs so your holding a big metal spider. Then you can reach all line nuts so easily.
If you put it on cardboard box, sharpie exactly where the injector nuts are. it goes back together beautifully. Obviously the bottom 2 are the hardest, so mark them the most accurate and pay most attention when assembling to the new ip.
One guy in the shop copied my method, but added sandwiching the lines innthe valley on each side with paint stir sticks and safety wire to ensure nothing could move.
I probably done 30-35 ips that way and only once had to loosen and adjust a couple lines- but never the hard ones.
I wouldn’t have thought mentioning this if not having just put my “spider” on a shelf last night pulling my engine apart.
Pop the intake off.
Undo the nuts from injectors and wiggle free. Undo the 2 nuts (each side) on the valve covers that the lines mount to.
Then oil fill and 3 bolts inside, 3 adjuster nuts that are fun to reach, and wiggle the ip free of the gasket. Pull the ip with the 8 legs so your holding a big metal spider. Then you can reach all line nuts so easily.
If you put it on cardboard box, sharpie exactly where the injector nuts are. it goes back together beautifully. Obviously the bottom 2 are the hardest, so mark them the most accurate and pay most attention when assembling to the new ip.
One guy in the shop copied my method, but added sandwiching the lines innthe valley on each side with paint stir sticks and safety wire to ensure nothing could move.
I probably done 30-35 ips that way and only once had to loosen and adjust a couple lines- but never the hard ones.
I wouldn’t have thought mentioning this if not having just put my “spider” on a shelf last night pulling my engine apart.
