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Ya know, something I do different than most when changing the ip is DONT remove the lines from the ip.
Pop the intake off.
Undo the nuts from injectors and wiggle free. Undo the 2 nuts (each side) on the valve covers that the lines mount to.
Then oil fill and 3 bolts inside, 3 adjuster nuts that are fun to reach, and wiggle the ip free of the gasket. Pull the ip with the 8 legs so your holding a big metal spider. Then you can reach all line nuts so easily.
If you put it on cardboard box, sharpie exactly where the injector nuts are. it goes back together beautifully. Obviously the bottom 2 are the hardest, so mark them the most accurate and pay most attention when assembling to the new ip.
One guy in the shop copied my method, but added sandwiching the lines innthe valley on each side with paint stir sticks and safety wire to ensure nothing could move.
I probably done 30-35 ips that way and only once had to loosen and adjust a couple lines- but never the hard ones.
I wouldn’t have thought mentioning this if not having just put my “spider” on a shelf last night pulling my engine apart.
Where did you get that handy l;ittle petcock?So I swapped out the petcock that came with the rad for one I could put a hose on for future drainsView attachment 55340
Now it's on to IP replacement and then I'll install the rad
There are basically two major manufacturers of automotive batteries in the United States and they each make multiple brands of "name brand" and "house brand" batteries of varying quality, that often "compete" against other brands in the same Corporate owned "family" of brands.I don't know who makes Farm & Fleets batteries, but I have had good luck with them. Just the opposite with Rural Kings batteries. May have been luck of the draw. Always get batteries load tested when you buy them. I've rejected a lot of batteries