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My new truck

So I finally go my truck back together. I had a fuel leak somewhere on the FFM. So in the process of fixing it I discovered the fuel heater wires were cracked so I ordered a heater from Leroy. Got it this morning and got it together.
So for a report on the shocks so far I'm pleased with them. Instead of my front end bouncing up and down a bit with every bump in the road it stayed pretty steady firm but not harsh. So if they last they'll be my go to shock even if I have to buy them from AutoZone. Thanks for nudging me in that direction Mike.
 
So I had to change out the interior door handle on the drivers door, so when I ordered parts from RA I also got an actuator for the drivers side passenger door. So I put the new one in and it didn't work, checked power it was OK took the old one apart to see what it looked like and to see if Wills trick would work on these. Short answer is no the motor can only rotate back and forth and to get it to spin you'd have to break open the glued together assembly.
 
Yeah, getting the motor away from any armature or linkage is the key to that.

On other styles that are an electromagnetic solenoid, IF you can disable the solenoid, usually cleaning contact areas fix them. Big if there on disassembly.
 
I actually disassembled it far enough to get to the brushes. Cleaned them up and took an eraser to the area that they rub on. But no go it would move with no load on it but when connected it would barely move.
 
Did you try cleaning/lubing/checking for binding of the linkages? The rear passenger door on my Burb was doing the same thing, ordered a new actuator, still wouldn't unlock (would lock just fine on the old and new one). Took a can of contact cleaner and some compressed air and cleaned every pivot point (especially the shaft into the lock mechanism) and relubed them with some aerosol white lithium grease. Works fine now with the original actuator. Seems the factory white grease hardens into a blob of gunk after 20 years.
 
I go after the rods where they pass through bushings with cleaning/penetrating oils along with a brush to get the gack off the rods and out of the bushings. Same with the pivot points. Hit them again afterwards with Silicon Lube. I also go after the door lock mechanism on the door handles using Dawn Soap and nylon brush then Silicon when they dry. Amazing how well it works on noncooperative door locks.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I usually use some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper for cleaning commutators.
Click to expand...
Normally it is advised to use Flint paper for commutators. A real old Motors Manual said if flint paper is not available to use 400 grit sanding paper.
I prefer the wet/dry variety, it does not flake off like the brownish colored stuff.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Normally it is advised to use Flint paper for commutators. A real old Motors Manual said if flint paper is not available to use 400 grit sanding paper.
I prefer the wet/dry variety, it does not flake off like the brownish colored stuff.
Click to expand...

Flint is non-conductive, a very important thing to consider anywhere that electricity is concerned. It doesn't matter what media is used, some always flakes off. Anything that flakes off has the potential to be embedded in the surface of whatever you are sanding/polishing. Anything that is electrically conductive is potentially a problem where electricity is involved.

This is why I would agree with MrMarty51.

Don
 
When you did this, were you able to power the motor and run it separate from the linear action so the motor could just spin freely for a while?
 
Interesting update, been having a hard hot start ever since I got back from my road trip. Been using snow or water which ever was handy to get it started. Anyway a couple of weeks ago I started noticing that my hard hot start seems to have gone away. I was talking to Paul about it and he questioned me about additve/ fuel changes when it suddenly dawned on me it was probably the change to summer fuel.
 
So yesterday I fixed a fuel leak I had at the FFM. I had soldered a JIC fitting to the steel tube for the return line, turns out the steel tube failed. So I pulled the FFM and drilled out what was left of the steel tube then I chucked it up in my mill and used a 5/16 end miil and bored it out slightly off center so as to leave more meat at the edge of the hole. Tapped it with a 1/8 npt tap and bought a 1/8npt to 1/4 jic fitting.
I had also picked up some filters off ebay they are the stanadyne metal top ones, so now it "should" be good to go.

I also changed the door lock actuator and now all is good there too.
 
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