MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
And with the injectirs in my engine set at about 1950 PSI, that makes them rattle even louder.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
My 93 having a mysterious tapping or knocking under acceleration that comes and goes
- Thread starter dbrannon79
- Start date
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I suppose rebuilding some injectors are next on the list. though it's gonna be fun getting this turbo off to get at the passenger side.
I'm curious if an injector noise or knock can come and go like this and be mistaken for a lifter or knock.
I'm curious if an injector noise or knock can come and go like this and be mistaken for a lifter or knock.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
It can come and go. It can be loud enough to sound like a rod about to exit the block
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Welp, I guess I could attempt to remove the turbo. I will get the intake and all buttoned back up today, then see if I can get a set rebuilt and ready to go in. been wanting to do that anyway. idk the condition of the injectors that are on this engine or how long they've been on it. I would assume they were installed used when this engine was put in or were on it when it was installed. given all the used injectors that I was given with the truck, I believe it was all put together on the cheap. sounds like something I would do LOL
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Back at it today. Started off by rebuilding a set of injectors we’ll see how this goes.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Finished up rebuilding a set of injectors and got them installed. That went surprisingly too well! After removing the IP lines and getting them out of the way I was able to get all 8 removed and installed without having to pull the turbo!
I have all 8 old ones laid out on my bench to test later but curiosity was getting me so I chucked #6 on the tester and it blew its load at around 1500 psi!!
Now to get the IP lines back on and button up the rest of the engine.
I have all 8 old ones laid out on my bench to test later but curiosity was getting me so I chucked #6 on the tester and it blew its load at around 1500 psi!!
Now to get the IP lines back on and button up the rest of the engine.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Well it runs.... I had did a video of it running with my phone even revved it half way to the moon and back a couple of times but unfortunately for what ever reason my phone didn't record it. this new iphone 15 must not like me that well!
good news is it idles smooth and while revving it up guessing up around 3500 I don't hear any knocking or ticking sitting in the driveway. it does seem to be clattering slightly louder I think due to the injectors are now at a higher pressure or set where they should be at. I also stood on the brake, dropped it into gear and hit the go pedal. LOL it overpowered the brakes and lurched forward!! I wasn't expecting that and about knocked all my tools off from under the hood LOL
I will take it out tomorrow sometime and see if that noise re-appears.
also want to run all the old injectors I removed through the pressure tester to see what they were doing. I did test the one from #6 and it popped off at 1500 psi so not sure if low pop pressure would attribute to that. maybe the weak pressure might have been causing them to leak some at the wrong time causing a cylinder knock? idk but time will tell.
what's that old saying? idk if it's fixed but it's different!
good news is it idles smooth and while revving it up guessing up around 3500 I don't hear any knocking or ticking sitting in the driveway. it does seem to be clattering slightly louder I think due to the injectors are now at a higher pressure or set where they should be at. I also stood on the brake, dropped it into gear and hit the go pedal. LOL it overpowered the brakes and lurched forward!! I wasn't expecting that and about knocked all my tools off from under the hood LOL
I will take it out tomorrow sometime and see if that noise re-appears.
also want to run all the old injectors I removed through the pressure tester to see what they were doing. I did test the one from #6 and it popped off at 1500 psi so not sure if low pop pressure would attribute to that. maybe the weak pressure might have been causing them to leak some at the wrong time causing a cylinder knock? idk but time will tell.
what's that old saying? idk if it's fixed but it's different!
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
So I forgot to mention yesterday that after I got it running again. I had pulled the oil cap and removed the tube coming from the CDR and oil catch can so I could see how much blow by was evacuating from the engine.
after it has warmed up I revved it up pretty high and held it there. I noticed that almost all of the blow by that was being pushed from the engine almost completely stopped at high RPM. is this normal? I would have thought that without anything pulling the blow by that it would have gotten worse at higher RPM.
after it has warmed up I revved it up pretty high and held it there. I noticed that almost all of the blow by that was being pushed from the engine almost completely stopped at high RPM. is this normal? I would have thought that without anything pulling the blow by that it would have gotten worse at higher RPM.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
'Is this normal?' Yes.
The old Heath Diesel page used to list a testing for blow by that involved visual checks at idle and vacuum pull at higher RPM (2500 IIRC). The aim was to not have people prematurely condemn their motors. I no longer have the document in digital or printed form (I know, disappointing) but, 'if memory serves' it went like this....
With the engine warmed up, the oil cap secured and the dip stick removed, run a long length of clear hose from a glass or bucket of water up and over the dip stick tube. At idle, the water level in the hose should stay at the water level in the bucket or a little lower. With the engine RPM increased to 2500 rpm, water should be pulled up the tube about an inch or two. Water WILL NOT be pulled up into the motor so relax. IF water is pulled up the one to two inches, you've still got life in the engine. I'm guessing, the higher the water gets in the hose, the better.
I did this early on (2008?) with my old engine which had easily visible huffin' and puffin'. The engine passed so I knew it was alright for a while.
Bill is drag racing his gasser truck with one of his former employee's driving one of his previously owned 6.5s. I'll ask him when he gets home if he's still got the write up.
The old Heath Diesel page used to list a testing for blow by that involved visual checks at idle and vacuum pull at higher RPM (2500 IIRC). The aim was to not have people prematurely condemn their motors. I no longer have the document in digital or printed form (I know, disappointing) but, 'if memory serves' it went like this....
With the engine warmed up, the oil cap secured and the dip stick removed, run a long length of clear hose from a glass or bucket of water up and over the dip stick tube. At idle, the water level in the hose should stay at the water level in the bucket or a little lower. With the engine RPM increased to 2500 rpm, water should be pulled up the tube about an inch or two. Water WILL NOT be pulled up into the motor so relax. IF water is pulled up the one to two inches, you've still got life in the engine. I'm guessing, the higher the water gets in the hose, the better.
I did this early on (2008?) with my old engine which had easily visible huffin' and puffin'. The engine passed so I knew it was alright for a while.
Bill is drag racing his gasser truck with one of his former employee's driving one of his previously owned 6.5s. I'll ask him when he gets home if he's still got the write up.
Last edited:
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Interesting. I wonder if this test is done with the CDR and tubing disconnected from the turbo so it can't pull anything from the turbo spooling up.
I know this old worn out engine when you first crank it up cold with all the CDR tubing off and the oil cap off, there is hardly any blow by at all when it bone cold. as soon as there is a tiny amount of heat in the cylinders (run for a couple minutes) it starts puffing the smoke.
This test might be something we could try and then add maybe a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer and then a can of engine restore testing for claimed compression restoring.
I was actually thinking about dropping a quart of the Lucas in this engine the other day since the weather is warming up. considering this engine is a 99 model though I have not tried to get the block cast numbers, I think it has the piston oil squirters. the Lucas treatment might help.
I remember back in the day I had an old jeep cherokee that had a GM 2.8 v6 in it. it had a bad rod knock due to it being externally balanced. someone had done some parts replacements. I can't remember but the same engine in a GM vehicle was built different and the flex plates and harmonic balancers were weighted differently than for jeeps with the same engines. anyhoo it had t he wrong flex plate or balancer causing the vibrations to take out a rod bearing.
I replaced them with the correct parts and then dropped the pan installing a new bearing on that rod. still knocked pretty bad. dumped two bottles of that lucas stabilizer in the engine and drove it for another year till I sold it. that motor honey kept it alive all that time LOL
I know this old worn out engine when you first crank it up cold with all the CDR tubing off and the oil cap off, there is hardly any blow by at all when it bone cold. as soon as there is a tiny amount of heat in the cylinders (run for a couple minutes) it starts puffing the smoke.
This test might be something we could try and then add maybe a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer and then a can of engine restore testing for claimed compression restoring.
I was actually thinking about dropping a quart of the Lucas in this engine the other day since the weather is warming up. considering this engine is a 99 model though I have not tried to get the block cast numbers, I think it has the piston oil squirters. the Lucas treatment might help.
I remember back in the day I had an old jeep cherokee that had a GM 2.8 v6 in it. it had a bad rod knock due to it being externally balanced. someone had done some parts replacements. I can't remember but the same engine in a GM vehicle was built different and the flex plates and harmonic balancers were weighted differently than for jeeps with the same engines. anyhoo it had t he wrong flex plate or balancer causing the vibrations to take out a rod bearing.
I replaced them with the correct parts and then dropped the pan installing a new bearing on that rod. still knocked pretty bad. dumped two bottles of that lucas stabilizer in the engine and drove it for another year till I sold it. that motor honey kept it alive all that time LOL
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I feel like if I did this test now, it would "blow bubbles" in the water in the bucket, but revved up It might draw some up slightly or be at the same level as the water in the bucket. now with the CDR tubing attached, It might actually draw some up the tubing, maybe.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
I had my CDR and all plumbing connected for the test and, NO, the water will not get pulled all the way up the hose.
Last edited:
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Drove to work today, didn't notice the noise this morning, but we also had a cool front move in too. the engine seems to be clattering louder. it ran fine though.
one other curiosity of mine is before when fully warm, sitting at at stop light the engine had a slight shake to it, not a miss but kinda like a gasser with a out of tune carb. wonder if that goes away with injectors that are more balanced on pop pressures.
I'm also wondering if by me rebuilding a set if injectors and setting pressures to 1950, it could have slightly changed the timing. higher pop pressures it might be popping off slightly later than with the old injectors. I still need to test the old ones that I pulled, but my thinking is if the older ones were popping off at around 1500 like the one I did test, timing might have changed. how much, IDK.
I might be able to verify that by trying to push on the advance lever of the IP and see how it acts with the newly rebuilt injectors. the engine is clattering loud enough that the tapping I was hearing can't be heard in the cab over the clatter now.
one other curiosity of mine is before when fully warm, sitting at at stop light the engine had a slight shake to it, not a miss but kinda like a gasser with a out of tune carb. wonder if that goes away with injectors that are more balanced on pop pressures.
I'm also wondering if by me rebuilding a set if injectors and setting pressures to 1950, it could have slightly changed the timing. higher pop pressures it might be popping off slightly later than with the old injectors. I still need to test the old ones that I pulled, but my thinking is if the older ones were popping off at around 1500 like the one I did test, timing might have changed. how much, IDK.
I might be able to verify that by trying to push on the advance lever of the IP and see how it acts with the newly rebuilt injectors. the engine is clattering loud enough that the tapping I was hearing can't be heard in the cab over the clatter now.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I can't hear it now. It must be good. Lol
Big T
Well-Known Member
Is the hose connected to the dipstick tube? “Up and over the dipstick tube” is not specific enough.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Yes needs to be an air tight connection.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
CDR Valve replacement
Haha, I'm trying not to be a douche like most people in this town Bison Where u from near peace river? I am going to check for the blow by when I turn the truck on to leave work this evening, is this best to check at startup or when the engine is warm? The hose isn't much of a concern, I can...
www.thetruckstop.us
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I see Bison's post there but he doesn't mention if the engine is at idle or at a higher RPM.
Saturday while putting the truck back together I did notice a decent oil leak where the dipstick goes into the pan. not sure if there is a seal or o-ring that goes in there, but I might need to seal that up.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
No for some reason it copied the thread instead of the post. Read further on
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Well just got home from work... bad news..
it's still tapping or knocking. accelerating on the entrance ramp to the freeway I could hear the tappy tap tap. a soon as I was able to let off the pedal I got back into it and the tap was gone. I assume it's a lifter or worse.
after going in and changing out of my work uniform, I went back outside, fired it up and tried the hose on the dipstick tube.
I had about a 5ft piece of clear 3/8" hose, it was able to stretch over the end of the dipstick pipe. stuck the other end in a bowl of water. at idle it's blowing lots of bubbles. revving it up and holding it it still blew bubbles. it did slow some but also within that little time I did that test oil had already spit out the dipstick tube and worked about half way up that 5ft of clear tubing. I did the test with the oil cap on and the CDR and tubing still connected to the turbo inlet.
I guess that was a big fail. I suppose now with this test failing big time along with this tapping going on not knowing if it's a lifter or worse, a piston trying to make an escape. it's time to call it where it's at.
That 6.2 even with the main web crack is looking better and better!
I've got a weekend trip coming up on the 18th to make the trip out to the coast, about a 300 mile round trip. I was hoping this rig would be able to make the trip, but I'm having my doubts. Even though my 95 has some steering / suspension issues, I think I need to pull it out, do a good inspection on the front end plus charge the AC and hope it holds for the trip.
Then make a decision. since everything works including the AC on this 93, do I pull the engine from the 95 and plop it into the 93, or prep that 6.2 to go in? then start looking for something suitable for a good replacement engine.
if the engine in the 93 isn't cracked, maybe it will be a decent rebuild-able core
it's still tapping or knocking. accelerating on the entrance ramp to the freeway I could hear the tappy tap tap. a soon as I was able to let off the pedal I got back into it and the tap was gone. I assume it's a lifter or worse.
after going in and changing out of my work uniform, I went back outside, fired it up and tried the hose on the dipstick tube.
I had about a 5ft piece of clear 3/8" hose, it was able to stretch over the end of the dipstick pipe. stuck the other end in a bowl of water. at idle it's blowing lots of bubbles. revving it up and holding it it still blew bubbles. it did slow some but also within that little time I did that test oil had already spit out the dipstick tube and worked about half way up that 5ft of clear tubing. I did the test with the oil cap on and the CDR and tubing still connected to the turbo inlet.
I guess that was a big fail. I suppose now with this test failing big time along with this tapping going on not knowing if it's a lifter or worse, a piston trying to make an escape. it's time to call it where it's at.
That 6.2 even with the main web crack is looking better and better!
I've got a weekend trip coming up on the 18th to make the trip out to the coast, about a 300 mile round trip. I was hoping this rig would be able to make the trip, but I'm having my doubts. Even though my 95 has some steering / suspension issues, I think I need to pull it out, do a good inspection on the front end plus charge the AC and hope it holds for the trip.
Then make a decision. since everything works including the AC on this 93, do I pull the engine from the 95 and plop it into the 93, or prep that 6.2 to go in? then start looking for something suitable for a good replacement engine.
if the engine in the 93 isn't cracked, maybe it will be a decent rebuild-able core