• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

My 93 having a mysterious tapping or knocking under acceleration that comes and goes

My opinion is a cracked block isn’t reliable enough for driving across country,
Or in weather that if you break down you could die.
Outside of that- run it till it grenades.
It doesn’t do any good to replace earlier if you don’t have the cash for a new one and not get all the miles possible out of it. Just make sure you can get it towed from wherever it does back to your place for the swap of the next one.

There has been 6.5 engines people thought would make it another 50k miles die within 1500 miles. Also seen ones that others & myself literally put money on that wouldn’t make it 1,000 miles - and after paying up front he thing lasted nearly 10,000 miles. So just run it till it won’t.
 
My thoughts are on the current engine, if I could get my hands on assuming three replacement pistons and a set of rings. maybe a quick hone, it might bring it back to life and survive a good while. I don't know if this engine has any cracks, but the lower end sounds healthy at higher rpms. I do know that on my 95 if you rev it up parked, you can hear the lower end with a slight knock which cannot be heard under load.

I know it's a gamble, but the idea is to see if I can slowly "make it great again" or at least better.

I've chalked the ticking noise up to all the valve train wear and possible failing lifter under load, but it doesn't do that all the time. as I have paid more attention to it when it comes in and how it goes away now. when I accelerate it takes it about 30 seconds to a minute into a load and the ticking starts and gets to it's "peak" but letting off allowing it to coast or cruise for about 30 seconds and then get back into it, the noise does not return. it does not matter if the engine is cold or fully warm and has been running a while, I could be cruising around town and then enter onto an on-ramp to the freeway and the tapping starts, let off and drive like grandpa getting on the freeway, noise stops, get back into it and it's fine.

It could also be cam bearings or something to do with the damaged pistons too, I'm guessing the oil film taking up the space leaves and starts the knock, let off to allow the oil film to return and it's good.


with all that said, I don't know how to replace cam bearings, but if it's from a cracked or broken piston skirt, loose wrist pin, and such, I thing I could replace that. does my description of how the tapping comes in and leaves say anything, point more towards one thing than the other?
 
I figure if I got this 6.2 ready, it will take me a while to do, but have it ready to go in for when things get worse for the 93, but if I want to even attempt to save (if that's even possible) the 93's engine, I could do the swap before it completely dies.

things I would need to find is a timing cover for a newer 95+ engine and the reluctor wheel for the crank sensor. if I want to keep the 93's engine completely sealed and not steal parts from it, I'd also need an oil pump drive (no sensor type) and the hex shaft to drive the oil pump too.

IDK if there are other parts behind the timing cover that would be needed to allow the install of a CPS on the front of this 6.2 so the TCM would work.

maybe someone here has those pieces laying around I could do some horse trading for LOL.

Once I can get the engine together, then I can start searching for another DB2 pump or attempt my hand at going though the pump I have inspecting it and re-sealing it. don't know what it would cost to sent it in for someone to go through it.
 
On a gas engine that has a knock.
Start pulling plug wires one at a time.
Get to the knocking cylinder.
If the knock dies out, bad rod bearing.
If the knock increases, piston problems.
Crack loose the injection pipes one at a time should produce the same results.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top