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My 93 having a mysterious tapping or knocking under acceleration that comes and goes

6.2. Vs 6.5 differences- oil pan, crankshaft, pistons, cylinder diameter, rear main seal, injectors. Then like always- the exterior accessories can be all over the place.

As for truing up the cylinder walls with a flat stone- that is what a 3 stone cylinder hone is for. The problem with it is- by time you use it enough to help, you have removed enough material ls that you are basically boring the cylinder and need a full bore job and 0.030 over pistons and rings. That is why the ball hone suggestion was made.
The only reason to use the ball hone is to allow new rings to seat. Doing this is not going the right way- it is the cheap way out to make improvement.
But you don’t buy the rings until the pistons are out because someone may have already bored the engine.
If you use the 3 stone and it goes to far, you have eliminated the option of running the engine without machine work and without new pistons & rings

When my glow plug pitted my piston- it made it sound like a moderate rod knock.
I didn’t panic and kept driving it because I knew the cause.

It’s still a coin flip. If it runs, just run it till it pukes/ tear it apart and see what parts are trash, what can be bandaided but know tearing it down might be the last time it is ever anything more than scrap weight. It really is a 50/50 thing.

 
So if the cylinder walls are wavy new rings will still seal by running the ball hone? and should I worry about the cylinder ring ridge if it has one?

other question is on the piston, a pinched ring land / stuck ring, can they be lightly filed to un-stick the new ring going in?

I think the engine is at the point of riding the fence pushing oil out that if I don't start venting it to the road (draft tube) it's gonna run off it's own oil soon. I've been watching how much oil is collecting in the 1" clear hose going to the intake boot. about 50 miles and it's pooling in a low drooping area of the hose and when idling you can see it "blowing waves" in the pooled up oil in the hose. when it pushes some of that oil into the boot and the turbo slings it, the engine rpm kinda picks up momentarily. it did that this afternoon on the way home from work.

if I let it vent to the air, it's gonna be a mosquito fogging machine sitting at a stop. I had tried that once and I had smoke/oil fog bellowing out from under the front end! I feel like I need to try something real soon or stop driving it.
 
Maybe tomorrow if I get the chance I will record a video of it running with the oil cap off. last I did that when fully warm, it was puffing and whistling as the pressures blew out the oil fill. she's near death already. I think more so now that I've sealed up the valve covers so they don't leak. It hasn't leaked a drop on the block since I opened up the top end. just throwing more out the case vents.

Maybe I should just run the draft tube out and let it drop into a can to catch drips from it out behind the cab somewhere

I'm probably going to spend some time on the 95 this weekend maybe drop some AC stop leak in and do some other maint on it so I can park the 93. need to tend to the yard first though, it's time to cut the grass LOL.
 
IMG_3224.png

Yes the rings will seat- not as quickly as they should, but they will.
In the drawing above we he dotted lines were the original cylinder walls. The wavy lines are what the worn cylinder currently is. If you use a 3 stone hone, you cut away the wavy part inside the solid lines. The idea is the gap is just big enough still that the engine runs.
In the second pic, the arrows indicates where the lost material would now push it out of limits enough to work.
The ball hone follows the curves, not leaving it perfectly at the wavy lines, but slightly moving the wavy lines out- far less than the change out to the solid lines.
But the crosshatch you put in the walls is what makes the rings seat is all.


IMG_3226.png
 
What should I expect to see on a damaged piston? if ring lands are ok to accept net rings, I assume I'll see the piston face all pitted up. if there is an are on the edge that was smashed to contact the cylinder wall, would I just take a file and round that edge to true it up with the rest of the piston?

on the walls I'm sure they'll be some scoring lines, I assume the ball hose will help them. what about cylinder ring ridge? leave them alone or would they create issues with new un-worn rings contacting them?
 
I guess I need to also find out which ball flex hone I would need, size and grit. was looking on the jungle site and found these. won't know if the block has been bored oversize until I can see it, but I hope one of the pistons would be marked and be readable since I don't have a bore caliper.

 
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You have to flip the coin about as is vs rip apart. Then do it. Don’t buy anything, don’t borrow anything. Rip it apart and go from there.
The only thing I would do before ripping apart is the water down the intake trick to clean out any carbon that is there first. That will do in couple minutes more than you will cleaning a couple hours once apart.
 
Cut them ridges in the tops of the cylinders.
When I was young I was told that that ridge would bust new unworn rings so do not chance leaving that ridge.
 
Also on ring lands.
If there is any ridge on the pistons pointing outwards toward the cylinder walls, use a file and file them ridges off flat to the sides of the pistons.
If You do anything as far as filing within the lands, make sure that it is done so that it is flat with the existing lands.
Using a piston land tool that cuts the carbon from the lands, then look after cleaning and see where the shiny portion of the cleaned land lies.
Then You might be able to see where the lands are wore and judge how much wiggle there will be within the lands, on upward and downward motion when new rings are installed.
Tough to explain but the top and bottom walls will be wore more toward the cylinder wall than the land closer to the piston.
Kind of like wiggle wiggle. 😹
 
Like this tool.
I think these can be borrowed from some big box parts store.
If not and You have none available then let Me know and I will mail You one and a ridge reamer.
 
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