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My 93 having a mysterious tapping or knocking under acceleration that comes and goes

Not sure if it's dangerous or at least I haven't seen anything frame wise on it, but it sure does beg the question when every joint and rubber under there has been replaced, some three times over since covid days. I know the gear box has some slop, but it's not any worse than the 93 is. and the 93 drives like an "old" dream LOL
 
I think soon as I can get the chance, I'm gonna pull that 6.2 back out where I can tinker with it, and run a compression test. even though it has a crack on the mains. this will determine if I try smearing some lipstick on it and try running it till I can do something.

get the 95 license plates renewed and run it. need to get it to a shop to thoroughly check the front end. I can do all the work, but having a shop put their peepers on it might reveal why I'm banging my head on it. that's mainly why I stopped driving it.
 
Well, today I went and got the license plates renewed on the 95 so it can be driven on the road, pulled it out from under the pecan tree and spent about half an hour with the air compressor blowing all the leaves and debris off the hood, windshield and under the hood!

planning on using the idea spdgofast gave me after posting his dual CDR setup for sale. I have an oil fill tube that has the 1" port for the CDR I will install on the 93, run some of that hose into a TEE from the hose off my factory CDR on the valve cover which runs into my homemade oil catch can I'm currently using. might try that without the second CDR, but if needed I do have the older CDR that's made for that oil fill.

my thinking is it should slow the flow of blow by by splitting the amount that is being pushed from the valve cover in half hence it might not push as much oil with the crankcase gasses.

my homemade oil catch can is nothing more than a gallon paint can stuffed full of stainless pot scrubbers with the hose from the CDR at the bottom and the outlet to the intake boot at the top. I got tired of the CKO provent leaking so that was my cheap alternative.

with that, I also plan to dump a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer and maybe a bottle of that rislone ring seal snake oil in the engine and see if that will help anything. doubtful, but thickening the oil should do some for the oil mist.

I think this 93 will make the 300 mile trip and hopefully last a little bit longer while I tinker with the 6.2 in the coming weeks seeing if it's viable to use as a temporary drop in engine till I win the lottery and afford a new engine lol!
 
Just made it back, stopped in wally world looking at there snake oil additives. figured what the heck... grabbed a bottle of lucas stabilizer, can of restore, and a bottle of rislone ring seal. I'll dump all three in together and see if she does anything. also for whatever reason one of the injector return lines blew dumping diesel all over and causing a miss.

ran to another store and grabbed a roll of hose to replace them all while I'm at it!
 
dbrannon79 said:
Just made it back, stopped in wally world looking at there snake oil additives. figured what the heck... grabbed a bottle of lucas stabilizer, can of restore, and a bottle of rislone ring seal. I'll dump all three in together and see if she does anything. also for whatever reason one of the injector return lines blew dumping diesel all over and causing a miss.

ran to another store and grabbed a roll of hose to replace them all while I'm at it!
Click to expand...
Careful, that return line hose in a roll will need clamps.
 
Spent the rest of the afternoon fixing the fuel leak. that in it's self was an ordeal! replaced all of the return hoses on the injectors and fired it up...

still had a slight miss like it did when the leak started.. hmmm.. cracked each injector line one at a time and found nothing. all 8 injectors firing.

stood back and watched the engine shake as it idled and scratching my head. revving it up and the miss went away, looked it over with my flashlight (getting dark outside) and low-n-behold another fuel leak. this time it was pissing from the drivers side somewhere even with new return hoses!! finally tracked it down to #7 injector. pulled the new return hoses and looked them over, seemed good, chopped off the ends anyway and popped them back on the injector. Dam this engine is hot!! fired it up and still leaking... finally said maybe one of the little return hose barbs was bent or cracked. pulled the injector while burning my hands in the process!! didn't see anything obvious so I chunked it on the tester.

it chattered just fine at the same pressure I had set it at without any issues and no fuel leaking from the body or from the return barbs. reinstalled it on the engine, connected the same return hoses and tightened up the IP line. fired it up and no leak and no more missing!! Not sure what happened here but it seems to be fixed now.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Spent the rest of the afternoon fixing the fuel leak. that in it's self was an ordeal! replaced all of the return hoses on the injectors and fired it up...

still had a slight miss like it did when the leak started.. hmmm.. cracked each injector line one at a time and found nothing. all 8 injectors firing.

stood back and watched the engine shake as it idled and scratching my head. revving it up and the miss went away, looked it over with my flashlight (getting dark outside) and low-n-behold another fuel leak. this time it was pissing from the drivers side somewhere even with new return hoses!! finally tracked it down to #7 injector. pulled the new return hoses and looked them over, seemed good, chopped off the ends anyway and popped them back on the injector. Dam this engine is hot!! fired it up and still leaking... finally said maybe one of the little return hose barbs was bent or cracked. pulled the injector while burning my hands in the process!! didn't see anything obvious so I chunked it on the tester.

it chattered just fine at the same pressure I had set it at without any issues and no fuel leaking from the body or from the return barbs. reinstalled it on the engine, connected the same return hoses and tightened up the IP line. fired it up and no leak and no more missing!! Not sure what happened here but it seems to be fixed now.
Click to expand...
The coiled return hose is not push-on, it needs the clamps, or it will leak.
 
before that fuel and miss ordeal I had already popped off the oil fill tube and swapped it for the one with the extra barb for a CDR. plumbed a hose on it and tee'd into the hose coming off the CDR on the valve cover. I didn't use a CDR on the oil fill, just connected it direct. the 1" hose I'm using is that clear stuff from home depot so I can see the oil getting spewed from the engine. the whole time I had it running while foxing the fuel leak the new hose never started spotting with oil like the one on the valve cover had been doing.

I did dump the quart of lucas and the bottle of rislone ring seal in but the oil level wasn't low enough for me to pour in the can of restore. it's actually a little over full now so I might try draining some out to get the other can in.
 
Big T said:
The coiled return hose is not push-on, it needs the clamps, or it will leak.
Click to expand...
I figured, but the hose wall is the same thickness as the other hose I had used on my 95 without clamps. the clamps wouldn't be able to go on there between the barb and the injector body. it's not the correct hose, I will prob order the kit with the pre-cut hoses that don't need clamps for it before we leave though. the roll was a 10' section that cost me $6.

it was all I could find in town. it's a orange clear 1/8" fuel hose. I'm sure it's made for lawnmowers or weed eaters LOL just needed to fix the leak for now.
 
Imo either get the factory kit that uses the clamps or go to a Mercedes Benz dealership and buy the hose by the foot that was used on the om603 engine. They still set it and it is the best push on hose there is for this.
 
Ok boys- get your minds out of the gutter and back into the trash can with the rest of us. Haha

The reason I was thinking not to mix them all in at once- seems to me the chemical is basically doing a task. Put in one now and let it do that job, make those improvements the best it can then next oil change add the next one. Otherwise item A might cancel out some of Item B.

Super glue works, so does epoxy. But adding super glue into the epoxy is not helping, it harms.
 
Well got the engine washed up and free from oil and grime. pulled the dipstick tube off the oil pan and pukied the end up with some right stuff and shoved it back in the hole after cleaning it and the hole out real good. while I was underneath, I know it needs front shocks, but the bushing on the drivers side was gone so I loosened it up and pulled the piece out. shoved a piece of heater hose over it had plopped it back in to lessen rattles for now.
 
since driving the 95 around yesterday and today, I now realize just how much louder the clatter is from the 93 with the newly rebuilt injectors. figured I would look at timing to see if it needs to be adjusted.

took a gander at the IP timing mark and looked for the center timing mark on the timing cover. this engine has a timing cover for a newer block meant for a DS4. looking at this pic, what would be the center mark on the cover? I can see the center (base time) mark on the IP.

IMG_0162.jpg
IMG_0162(1).jpg

on the DS4 timing cover you can see that tiny "V" shape mark just to the right of the IP mark and my blue paint mark I made for my reference last time I moved the IP. also that weird looking dimple in front of the bolt sticking out. does anyone know what the center base timing mark is on this timing cover? @Will L. @ak diesel driver
 
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