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My 2005 Yukon XL

Some fluid film fun, i'll admit the one thing I am liberal on:
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Having an issue with slow cranks. Voltage was 12.34 the other day, when the vehicle is running I am charging over 14-volts per dash gauge which I know isn't entirely accurate. The alternator is a Delco Remy 160-amp unit replaced about 2 years ago. When running I slapped my meter on it and am getting 13.7V so its definitely charging. Thinking I have a drain or the battery is taking a dump. Planning on pulling the battery and getting it load tested next.
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best way I have learned over the years to find whats draining batteries is to disconnect the ground cable from the battery and connect a test light inline between the battery and the cable. if it lights up bright, start pulling fuses one by one till the light dims out. but bypass the door dome light switch first. then move to things line the alternator connectors and what not. 9 times out of 10 it's one of a couple things. stuck regulator in the alternator, or the glove box / ash tray bulb switch stuck on.
 
dbrannon79 said:
best way I have learned over the years to find whats draining batteries is to disconnect the ground cable from the battery and connect a test light inline between the battery and the cable. if it lights up bright, start pulling fuses one by one till the light dims out. but bypass the door dome light switch first. then move to things line the alternator connectors and what not. 9 times out of 10 it's one of a couple things. stuck regulator in the alternator, or the glove box / ash tray bulb switch stuck on.
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Interesting, I will have to try this if the battery passes a load test. I checked the battery again tonight after 24 hrs of sitting and it's 12.3v no load.
 
Follow the above instructions.

If you want to load test batteries- buy this. I have had mine from harbor freight for about 30 years and used is professionally (frequent) for over half that.https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html

14.4 is normal acceptable charge voltage with engine running. Test this with this device first.
Shut off engine, disconnect all battery cables from both batteries, load test both batteries.
 
Yukon sat for almost 1 week since the last charging ordeal. In the 50s and it wung over quickly as it used to. Needed to run to the doctors Sunday after my 3rd round of sinus sickness.

They handed me a gambit of tests, strep, flu, and the usual 'vid...

All came back negative, I feel like I got the flu. Just want to sleep, feel weak, etc. Doc 'scribed antibiotics. He figured with my symptoms I would be flu positive. Had to run over to our horrendous pharmacy for a 2.5 hr wait to get it. Yukon fired right off each time. Leads me to believe less a draw issue.

Laying low today trying to recoup, stay well out there, the crud is starting to go around.
 
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DieselSlug said:
Yukon sat for almost 1 week since the last charging ordeal. In the 50s and it wung over quickly as it used to. Needed to run to the doctors Sunday after my 3rd round of sinus sickness.

They handed me a gambit of tests, strep, flu, and the usual 'vid...

All came back negative, I feel like I got the flu. Just want to sleep, feel weak, etc. Doc 'scribed antibiotics. He figured with my symptoms I would be flu positive. Had to run over to our horrendous pharmacy for a 2.5 hr wait to get it. Yukon fired right off each time. Leads me to believe less a draw issue.

Laying low today trying to recoup, stay well out there, the crud is starting to go around.
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Seriously waffling on the new COVID jab.

I just know too many people that had what appeared to be jab related issues and sudden death.
The Dr. Isn't pushing it too hard.if at all. He mentioned the COVID jab and that was about it.

Gotta die of something sometime. I'd rather it be the COVID than the jab.
I had COVID 3 times and was pretty much symptom free each time.
 
jrsavoie said:
Seriously waffling on the new COVID jab.

I just know too many people that had what appeared to be jab related issues and sudden death.
The Dr. Isn't pushing it too hard.if at all. He mentioned the COVID jab and that was about it.

Gotta die of something sometime. I'd rather it be the COVID than the jab.
I had COVID 3 times and was pretty much symptom free each time.
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Yeah, i am not up to date myself with them for many reasons.
 
Made it out to the Junkyard today. I had a wide list of things I needed, and wanted. Todays scores:
  • HB13 bulbs for the plow lights (1-low beam is out), snagged a few for $2 to have a spare.....
  • Fisher/Western handheld controller dash mount off an F250.
  • Windshield washer sprayer tubes leading from the pump along the drivers fender. Mine rubbed through and was electrical taped together for this whole summer. Lets fix it right.
  • Dash cubby block-out plates and multiple OEM roof aux switches for a future project. Plans are for ditch lights up front and some type of rear light while plowing.
  • Extra mini-fuses for stockpile.
  • Grille attachment clip to replace the one that I broke while putting the plow equipment on.
  • Vanity cover for a screw holding the front door panel on, been missing this for a while.
To be honest all the cars at the junkyard are purely junk now a days. Hard to even get some salvageable parts they are just so rotted out.
 
Ordered a set of Timbren SES bump stops for the front end to help carry the puny 500-pound plow setup. Currently it squats a good 1.25-inches with the plow up. Also ordered a set of shoes. Hopefully everything will be here next week.
 
I will have to keep that in mind next time I get a chance to venture out to the junkyard. the cup holders I have in mine is a center console from a 00-03 burb. and the cup holes are a made for a wide cup! my yetti cup tries to tip a bit in some turns.
 
Been chasing a quirk with the new plow that I thought was going to be an easy fix. Well, I still think its gonna be an easy fix but it took me much longer to get there.

The passenger side low beam on the plow is not working. Assumed it was the bulb, replaced it and no change. Swapped drivers side bulb to passenger, still the same issue. Grr.

Pulled some continuity tests back to the 11 pin plug at the grille and all is good, just no power. Further probing leads me to see that there is .25v coming in on the passenger side. I see over 12v to the drivers side input to the isolation module. 0v output on the module to the plow.

Upon almost a week of research, apparently 99-02 GM has some type of reverse polarity headlight system, where 03 and up is opposite. To fix this the Fisher harness for the headlights can be plugged in either way! Then it hit me that I bet I have the passenger side low beam harness plugged in wrong. I need to check this.
 
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