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My 2005 Yukon XL

DieselSlug said:
Found out today 16ga is a bit tough to bend! Some idiot dimples from me but oh well, it's inside the cavity. Working the patch piece slowly but surely.
View attachment 78828
View attachment 78829
Click to expand...
It'll go slow clamped well and using a couple pair of vice grip flat blades/ seamers.
You have to go a tiny little at a time and back and forth.

Set the grips so they don't quite lock and it saves time.
 
jrsavoie said:
It'll go slow clamped well and using a couple pair of vice grip flat blades/ seamers.
You have to go a tiny little at a time and back and forth.

Set the grips so they don't quite lock and it saves time.
Click to expand...
By set tight, I mean tight enough that they don't lock, but almost. Saves popping them open a bunch of times.
Unless you have enough pairs to go all the way across.. then lockem if you gottem
 
HF has a few options and I dodn't even think of them until I struggled bending the 16ga. Per reviews they do struggle with 16ga.

I got 2 pieces I will need to fab up for sure, may still end up grabbing one, but I am trying to find out what's going on with my welder. May end up buying another thus eating a lot of my funds.
 
Issues with penetration even on thin stuff. It's at my local welding supply store awaiting diagnosis. Firepower FP130 mig. It may be junk due to transformer failure, but they said it was a 2 mo line, it's been there since early Nov.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Hopefully it's something simple and relatively cheap to fix. Sounds like they've been sitting on it for a while
Click to expand...
Thats my hope otherwise I will have to buy one, and I don't have the funds for that at the moment.

Initially I did some diagnosis (or tried) with a voltmeter crossing the plate switch thing (cant remember correct name) within the unit, and I wasnt getting the voltage I was supposed to at the desired setting. It would only lay boogers/balls on top of the material with 0 penetration even on max settings with thin shim material.

I called mid December for an update, and they said there were 58 units ahead of me (was 89 when I dropped it off). He guessed another month at that point. Their reasoning for the slow progress was only 2 techs and 1 is mobile, so that means only 1 in house tech. I am trying to get my hands on another used welder to get practicing again. I've never welded thin gauge material, only 3/8's plus plate.
 
DieselSlug said:
Thats my hope otherwise I will have to buy one, and I don't have the funds for that at the moment.

Initially I did some diagnosis (or tried) with a voltmeter crossing the plate switch thing (cant remember correct name) within the unit, and I wasnt getting the voltage I was supposed to at the desired setting. It would only lay boogers/balls on top of the material with 0 penetration even on max settings with thin shim material.

I called mid December for an update, and they said there were 58 units ahead of me (was 89 when I dropped it off). He guessed another month at that point. Their reasoning for the slow progress was only 2 techs and 1 is mobile, so that means only 1 in house tech. I am trying to get my hands on another used welder to get practicing again. I've never welded thin gauge material, only 3/8's plus plate.
Click to expand...
There's always oxy- acetylene welding and / or brazing or soldering.

If you have a DC stick welder you can get a tig torch, bottle of argon and scratch start.

You can use silicon bronze with a tig or carbon arc.

For that thickness of metal I would use a 1/16 tungsten pencil torch for Tig welding.

Go slow and keep the tungsten cool. Run straight polarity
 
jrsavoie said:
There's always oxy- acetylene welding and / or brazing or soldering.

If you have a DC stick welder you can get a tig torch, bottle of argon and scratch start.

You can use silicon bronze with a tig or carbon arc.

For that thickness of metal I would use a 1/16 tungsten pencil torch for Tig welding.

Go slow and keep the tungsten cool. Run straight polarity
Click to expand...
We have some monster gas arc welders at the shop, I actually started researching to buy suitcase mig, and tig attachments for, but they are $1k plus! We use arc only at work due to welding crazy thick excavation equipment. By then I might as well buy another small flux and/or mig capable unit. Eventually I want a 220V Lincoln/Miller/Hobart for my shop, but currently I don't have the power requirements, so I need to keep it 120v.
dbrannon79 said:
What's the cost on a harbor freight wire welder? I have a track club membership if that will help lower the price!
Click to expand...
I have a buddy with a titanium he might let me borrow (not sure if its really available yet). He doesn't know what model it is (and he is currently in FL till next week). Per what he says I think its the Titanium 140 Unlimited (has provision for flux, mig, stick, and tig).

I have researched marketplace extensively, people are asking darn near new money for used units! I do have a 2016 vintage Auto Arc 100 unit saved on FB MP right now that is only $125 and just over 1-hour away. Supposedly its a lower cost Hobart, but parts are still available for it. In the HF flavors you can get the CE 125 for $140, Titanium 125 for $200, and the Titanium 140 for $419.

What I like about my FP 130 is it can run .023, .030, and .035. Its also fully variable, and has mig capability (never used, only flux). It has lots of options for a 120V unit. We definitely have options cooking, if I end up buying 1, and my FP 130 is repairable I will sell whatever one I like the least to recoup. Just hate wasting the winter away waiting for this welder that may in fact be junk.
 
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DieselSlug said:
We have some monster gas arc welders at the shop, I actually started researching to buy suitcase mig, and tig attachments for, but they are $1k plus! We use arc only at work due to welding crazy thick excavation equipment. By then I might as well buy another small flux and/or mig capable unit. Eventually I want a 220V Lincoln/Miller/Hobart for my shop, but currently I don't have the power requirements, so I need to keep it 120v.

I have a buddy with a titanium he might let me borrow (not sure if its really available yet). He doesn't know what model it is (and he is currently in FL till next week). Per what he says I think its the Titanium 140 Unlimited (has provision for flux, mig, stick, and tig).

I have researched marketplace extensively, people are asking darn near new money for used units! I do have a 2016 vintage Auto Arc 100 unit saved on FB MP right now that is only $125 and just over 1-hour away. Supposedly its a lower cost Hobart, but parts are still available for it. In the HF flavors you can get the CE 125 for $140, Titanium 125 for $200, and the Titanium 140 for $419.

What I like about my FP 130 is it can run .023, .030, and .035. Its also fully variable, and has mig capability (never used, only flux). It has lots of options for a 120V unit. We definitely have options cooking, if I end up buying 1, and my FP 130 is repairable I will sell whatever one I like the least to recoup. Just hate wasting the winter away waiting for this welder that may in fact be junk.
Click to expand...
I have a cheap 120v wire welder with a small argon tank that I would sell for $10 over the value of the tank.
Just because the tank is handy to tote around.

Model 90070-71 multi mig welder 120 Volt

tips for 90070-71 multi migs

you can get tips for this direct from Schumacher Electric in Chicago, Il.
 
jrsavoie said:
I have a cheap 120v wire welder with a small argon tank that I would sell for $10 over the value of the tank.
Just because the tank is handy to tote around.

Model 90070-71 multi mig welder 120 Volt

tips for 90070-71 multi migs

you can get tips for this direct from Schumacher Electric in Chicago, Il.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer, I think shipping would be a struggle!
 
Concluded my researching to hopefully get the best entry level flux, and/or mig welder while I wait for my FP130 to get diagnosed, and repaired or condemned.

Ended up with the YesWelder 135 which has the best duty cycle over all low end welders, is stick, mig, and tig (addl. purchase necessary) capable. Plus is highly portable so I can bring from work to home, as well as my dad's barn, and house.

Ultimately my plan is to keep the YesWelder as a highly mobile unit, and use the FP130 with gas as the shop mig. Once my barn gets built I will need to upgrade from the FP to a 220v unit.

Fingers crossed its a good purchase.
 
DieselSlug said:
Concluded my researching to hopefully get the best entry level flux, and/or mig welder while I wait for my FP130 to get diagnosed, and repaired or condemned.

Ended up with the YesWelder 135 which has the best duty cycle over all low end welders, is stick, mig, and tig (addl. purchase necessary) capable. Plus is highly portable so I can bring from work to home, as well as my dad's barn, and house.

Ultimately my plan is to keep the YesWelder as a highly mobile unit, and use the FP130 with gas as the shop mig. Once my barn gets built I will need to upgrade from the FP to a 220v unit.

Fingers crossed its a good purchase.
Click to expand...
I'd carry a gas bottle with it.
I never cared a whole lot for flux core. It does have it's place though.

I had a strictly flux core Lincoln in 1984 or 85 that plugged into stick welder leads. It was pretty handy for putting down a bunch of inches of weld outside in the. Wind.
I tested from 20 ga to heavy plate. I think it was NR211 5/64. Or maybe .064.
 
jrsavoie said:
I'd carry a gas bottle with it.
I never cared a whole lot for flux core. It does have it's place though.

I had a strictly flux core Lincoln in 1984 or 85 that plugged into stick welder leads. It was pretty handy for putting down a bunch of inches of weld outside in the. Wind.
I tested from 20 ga to heavy plate. I think it was NR211 5/64. Or maybe .064.
Click to expand...
I will with the FP130. But the YesWelder 135 doesn't have provision for gas.
 
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