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My 2005 Yukon XL

just out of curiosity, did your yukon have an amp in there from factory? only reason I ask is because normally the harnesses will be there even if ti didn't have one installed off the assembly line, but the radio head unit it's self might not have the option on it which would lead to the amp signal wire (blue 12v) behind it to have no connection to the head unit.
 
dbrannon79 said:
just out of curiosity, did your yukon have an amp in there from factory? only reason I ask is because normally the harnesses will be there even if ti didn't have one installed off the assembly line, but the radio head unit it's self might not have the option on it which would lead to the amp signal wire (blue 12v) behind it to have no connection to the head unit.
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It has the UQ7 option code and is an SLT so I assume it came with the premium. It doesn't have Y91 code so no lux version.

I need to do more chasing with the multimeter.
 
DieselSlug said:
It has the UQ7 option code and is an SLT so I assume it came with the premium. It doesn't have Y91 code so no lux version.

I need to do more chasing with the multimeter.
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I don't know what all the RPO codes mean but it might be worth a visit to your local Chevy house to ask if they mean it's got that option. of course, that is if it's still got the factory stereo head unit installed. could be time to invest into a fancy aftermarket head unit too!

I have by eye on one listed on the jungle site. watched a few independent review videos on youtube and they seem to be really decent. has the wireless or wired andorid auto / iphone carplay which I like to use for the GPS and whatnot.

here is the link to it... even now shows a $30 coupon 🤔 I might just take the plunge. I've been growing tired of the old Kenwood unit I have because of the bluetooth connection is a PIA to re-connect if I walk too far away from the truck with it still connected.

 
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Ya know, I remember having a problem with that knob next to the volume that gave a boost of volume according to vehicle speed. I can’t remember which truck that was but it had all kinds of parts getting swapped around before they found it. Easy part for me because it was under warranty and they gave me a loaner to burn up miles in.

No clue if that could be related but figured throw it out there jic
 
Will L. said:
Ya know, I remember having a problem with that knob next to the volume that gave a boost of volume according to vehicle speed. I can’t remember which truck that was but it had all kinds of parts getting swapped around before they found it. Easy part for me because it was under warranty and they gave me a loaner to burn up miles in.

No clue if that could be related but figured throw it out there jic
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I believe it is something like auto volume adjustment based on speed/cabin noise. I will double check the settings on it.
 
Will L. said:
Ya know, I remember having a problem with that knob next to the volume that gave a boost of volume according to vehicle speed. I can’t remember which truck that was but it had all kinds of parts getting swapped around before they found it. Easy part for me because it was under warranty and they gave me a loaner to burn up miles in.

No clue if that could be related but figured throw it out there jic
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Yeah, my '98 K2500 Burb LT had that automatic volume adjust based off of road speed. Worthless, never noticed any real difference, if at all, regardless of if it was On or Off or my speed.
 
I bought mine back about 2012 from Harbor Freight on sale and with a coupon, set me back about $50, to do the uppers and lowers on my Burb. Have used it since to do my ex-wife's uppers and lowers on her old '05 Trailblazer, my mom's old '95 Contour, my '94 P/U's uppers and lowers, my neighbors' vehicles. It's even great for retracting brake caliper pistons, too! It's "paid for itself" several times over!
 
Never had a lick of problem with my HF unit. I do keep it maintained and always put a dab of grease on the threads and run the screw back and forth through the frame to spread it before using it and another small dab on before beginning tightening.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Never had a lick of problem with my HF unit. I do keep it maintained and always put a dab of grease on the threads and run the screw back and forth through the frame to spread it before using it and another small dab on before beginning tightening.
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Yep. My cheapo held up well until I overdid it. I don't think you're supposed to put a breaker bar on them
 
jrsavoie said:
Yep. My cheapo held up well until I overdid it. I don't think you're supposed to put a breaker bar on them
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I've used my ½" drive, 575 lb/ft air impact on mine (not at the full 5 setting, just the 3, which I'm guessing is up around 300-350 lb/ft of torque) which is definitely NOT recommended, but it was a matter of expediency and working room to get a rather reluctant ball joint to finally "pop"and push out of the control arm it had been in for an eternity, after using the box wrench and my ½" drive rachet and socket didn't get it to budge!
 
Trip was a success.

First off i started noticing a driveline vibration on the way down at 75 to 80-MPH. Never had felt this before, but rarely get to 75-MPH locally to home.

I did get the notorious u-joint squeak starting faint while coasting, then becoming more pronounced during acceleration while we were down in TN. Checked the joints, no play noted. We did check for play prior to leaving too, but this is something you just can't identify!

Total trip:
20230407_231807.jpg

We will be pulling the rear for new joints. May be pulling the front as well for piece of mind.
 
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I have learned: when a ujoint is done- pull the driveline (both if 4wd) and just do them all at once. Then you are set for years to come and don’t worry about anything.

I enjoy the ease of sealed units for on road only vehicles. Anything that deals with heavy dirt, water, etc- grease-able is good but ya have to stay on top of them or they die quick.
Same for tie rod ends and such- sealed units for street queens.
 
Will L. said:
I have learned: when a ujoint is done- pull the driveline (both if 4wd) and just do them all at once. Then you are set for years to come and don’t worry about anything.

I enjoy the ease of sealed units for on road only vehicles. Anything that deals with heavy dirt, water, etc- grease-able is good but ya have to stay on top of them or they die quick.
Same for tie rod ends and such- sealed units for street queens.
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Used to change them in pairs or more.
I quit that. Too many new bad parts. And I have always tried to go buy the best quality parts available.
Now I'm in the, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it crowd."

Seems like a good working part is just as likely to last as long as a new part I'd buy.
 
Will L. said:
I have learned: when a ujoint is done- pull the driveline (both if 4wd) and just do them all at once. Then you are set for years to come and don’t worry about anything.

I enjoy the ease of sealed units for on road only vehicles. Anything that deals with heavy dirt, water, etc- grease-able is good but ya have to stay on top of them or they die quick.
Same for tie rod ends and such- sealed units for street queens.
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That's my plan for now. It really is our highway people mover, but in the next year or two it will sit in the driveway with a little HT plow over the winter months.

I have had best luck with non-serviceable, and I am good on my maintenance with greasables. Just not sure why I cant get them to last as long as sealed units?
jrsavoie said:
Used to change them in pairs or more.
I quit that. Too many new bad parts. And I have always tried to go buy the best quality parts available.
Now I'm in the, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it crowd."

Seems like a good working part is just as likely to last as long as a new part I'd buy.
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I definitely want a name brand replacement. I think FleetPride uses Spicer (may take them there and get a balance as well). Not sure if there are any original joints left on this unit, but I also understand and have done it this way either if I can confirm originality.
 
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