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My 2005 Yukon XL

Will L. said:
Yup. There are aftermarket plastic sub boxes that fit in the rear area in place of the factory set up on the driver’s side. Some look very stock and some look mighty custom.
Our 05 escalade could really put out some noise. iirc mine was jl audio 10”, amp fit in the original location.
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I think the reasoning for the sub being moved to the front on the 03+ has to due with the how the RSE works. Basically the truck is divided in half where only the front part works, unless you turn on the rear RSE then the entire truck plays. So that's why I assume they moved the sub up front from 02 and older? But I really think something is wrong with my audio system as I can't control the rear RSE volume from the head unit.
Husker6.5 said:
Here's an affordable 5¼" woofer/subwoofer with really decent efficiency (dB/W/m) and good bottom end for its size and especially its size, @DieselSlug:
www.parts-express.com

Dayton Audio DC130B-4 5-1/4" Classic Woofer Speaker

Dayton Audio DC130B-4 5-1/4" Classic Woofer SpeakerOne of the main design goals at Dayton Audio is to create loudspeakers that can achieve high levels of performance at reasonable prices. The Dayton Audio DC130B-4 5-1/4" woofer is a great example of this approach. It features a non-pressed...
www.parts-express.com
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Very good price, thanks for sharing! I was gonna get one off of Amazon but it's a 6.5-inch. From what I see it can be made fit, but would love just to install one.
Screenshot_20230319_130852_Chrome.jpg
 
Will L. said:
Could be. I focused on him saying “ but I would really like to upgrade that a little…”

And when it comes to upgrading sound systems, I tend to get carried away, so my wife and mom used to say. My 69 Camaro popped the back window and I had to have huge pipe clamps over roof to support the side windows. MR5000 windshield after it broke.
All from 2- 12” in an isobaric box that fired up through the rear dash. A few 10” thrown here and there… the glovebox had amps that pulled out on a marble tray….
From there I got carried away in later vehicles. Haha.

Tinnitus? No, there is too much Humming in my ears to hear the ringing anymore- haha.
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Really I am looking for the quick and dirty replacement speaker to get the OEM performance back, but if I can get aftermarket with better quality I would be open to do it in the OEM slot for now. I would entertain moving it to the rear (which is really a great spot for it) just don't know if it will be too much for people with headsets on the RSE? I know I would have to run new power from the console back for it to work.
 
Did some research on the Dayton Db130, issue is that it only comes in 8-ohm and 4-ohm. It is my understanding the bose system components are all 2-ohm. Not sure if I can use a 4-ohm or it can be wired in a way to be 2?
 
The 4 Ohm would not hurt the amp, the only thing you would notice is that it wouldn't be quite as loud as an equivalent 2 Ohm speaker at the same power level. To make a 4 Ohm speaker look like a 2 Ohm load to an amplifier, just get a 4 Ohm resistor that can handle the wattage output of the amplifier and wire it in parallel across the (+) and (-) terminals of the speaker to make it a 2 load. Ohm's Law.
 
When I re-did the stereo in my truck, I installed 4 of the 6.5" kicker 2-way speakers to replace the OEM ones in the doors. my truck had some odd ball size oval ones in the rear pillars that were right in your ears for a person sitting in the back seat. I eliminated those, the rear doors had the holes and speaker grills there but no speakers from factory. had to cut out the circle in the door panel behind the factory grilles but they made it much better. Also bearable for a passenger sitting in the back as the music wasn't up in their ears. only have one 12" sub in a box behind the rear seat with an amp powering it. has a separate bass volume control in the dash, only have to turn it up maybe a 1/4 ways before it's too much!

I'm not much for the boom boom going down the road, but I do like to hear all the highs and lows clearly and be able to turn it up if I'm parked somewhere and out of the truck listening to it! :)
 
I dont know if there are speakers in the rear seat doors of My truck.
I do know that the front seat doors have the empty grills.
I would like to have speakers within those holes but I doubt that will happen.
I have a disliking for removing the door panels on any vehicle, especially the ones with so many electronics involved. 😹😹😹
 
I know what you mean. I have done it so many times on my truck that I have become a pro at it haha. had to buy a big bag of the plastic locking clips off the jungle site so I have replacements when I pull them. Now pulling the inner panel is a whole nother story. that is a royal PIA.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I know what you mean. I have done it so many times on my truck that I have become a pro at it haha. had to buy a big bag of the plastic locking clips off the jungle site so I have replacements when I pull them. Now pulling the inner panel is a whole nother story. that is a royal PIA.
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Those plasticated ring shank nails. Most usually are of a harder plastic than the OEM units. I have had a lotnof them things break off When trying to Install the panels.
What a PIA for to deal with inferior products.
 
Because they assemble MUCH faster on the assembly line with pop-in fasteners instead of screws in need of covers. Not to mention if the powered screwdriver slips and the panel gets marred or torn and now needs replacement before proceeding down the assembly line. As always, it all comes down to the bean counters!
 
Husker6.5 said:
Because they assemble MUCH faster on the assembly line with pop-in fasteners instead of screws in need of covers. Not to mention if the powered screwdriver slips and the panel gets marred or torn and now needs replacement before proceeding down the assembly line. As always, it all comes down to the bean counters!
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If I remember right my first trucks had steel panels and were screwed on.
1962 thru maybe 1972 Ford's.
I can't remember for sure the year of the truck I called 1972.
I remember having it. That's about it
 
Tonight was a fail....

Anyone have a good knowledge of the OEM bose system on 03-06 trucks? I have no function out of the OEM console subwoofer even with the selection on the radio maxed. Tried a junkyard subwoofer, and then a premium "dumb" amp. No changes from my current ones. All door speakers work fine. So my issue seems to be somewhere else.

Is there a separate fuse somewhere I am missing for the amp/sub?
20230321_181241.jpg
 
No knowledge of those. Just basic sound man's experience. Start at your speaker, make sure it works. Check connections from speaker to amp. Disconnect plug to amp, with key on Acc, make sure there's power to amp. Check signal path from head unit's output plug to amp's input plug for continuity. Check if the head unit is putting out a signal to the sub amp. Check head unit's settings to make sure there isn't a separate function that controls the sub's power/volume separate from the master volume. There could very well be a seperate fuse for the factory sub amp.
 
Husker6.5 said:
No knowledge of those. Just basic sound man's experience. Start at your speaker, make sure it works. Check connections from speaker to amp. Disconnect plug to amp, with key on Acc, make sure there's power to amp. Check signal path from head unit's output plug to amp's input plug for continuity. Check if the head unit is putting out a signal to the sub amp. Check head unit's settings to make sure there isn't a separate function that controls the sub's power/volume separate from the master volume. There could very well be a seperate fuse for the factory sub amp.
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The more I sit and stew on this, I feel I am looking way to deep into it. Feels just like a blow fuse to me. Visually components looked good, I didn't have my multimeter to ohn out speaker. Will come up with a game plan to diagnose further.
 
there should be an amp wire at the back of the stereo (blue iirc) that sends a 12v signal out to the amp to tell it to power on, then there should be a 12v power wire to the amp that should have constant power from the fuse box and to the battery. or at least that is how I remember most factory units are wired up.

not sure if I have one in my collection but there should be a schematic posted here somewhere that should show how it's all ran. I would test all those connections and verify powers and grounds, then verify sound is being sent. the easiest way I would know how to do this is have a small dumb amp that you can manually connect to the sound inputs and power direct to a battery to test for the boom booms to flow.
 
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