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Moose Call...

Lost a week due to the ineffective flu shot.

Regardless we got her smoking this evening. One battery was bad, forgot about extra glow time, needed more advance, and used jumper cables. It started and impressed me what a good pump can do. Will be swapping Batts tommorow.
 
So take care of a couple things. First time I had a fuel leak at the IP lines. So bad it dropped a cylinder out. Used an extension and 4 hands to get to it with the intake still on. Yes threaded extension and crows foot under intake. Then adjust the TPS.

Smokes less under power. As in almost no smoke.

Not real happy with the same smoke cloud starting. Also still have some injectors rattling/knocking loudly. Like it's cold. May need more advance or standard pop PSI injectors. It does get off the starter a lot faster now. Almost turn key - it's just not initially hitting all 8.

Had to re-invent the fitting on the smoke puff limiter as it hit the intake. Pics later.

Usual blow out the smoke meter emmisions didn't fail... So it runs and back on the road.
 
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WarWagon said:
Not real happy with the same smoke cloud starting. Also still have some injectors rattling/knocking loudly. Like it's cold. May need more advance or standard pop PSI injectors. It does get off the starter a lot faster now. Almost turn key - it's just not initially hitting all 8.
Click to expand...
What pop pressure are you running right now?
 
WarWagon said:
I had to go way back and look that up: 2350 PSI pop pressure.
Click to expand...
I had mine at 2500 psi when I put my Moose in. No cold start problems at that pressure, but I did have some hot start problems......that is once I bumped my timing up a touch. It just couldn’t deal with all the fuel from cranking without just a little more timing. Later on I backed my injectors down to 1750 and no more hot start problems, but now it’s cold-blooded (my theory is larger fuel droplets from the injector and no precup heat to vaporize them). I’m going to try somewhere in between when I feel like tearing everything down again.

What are your outside air temperatures where you are right now?
 
Summer day to you guys - 58 and near 32 at night. A real cold snap for us.

I am going to pull the Walbro screen and check it this evening as well as lift pump pressure. Will also verify all 8 glow plugs 'do something'. I am sure the FFM heater leaking out of the wires, again, isn't helping. Just noticed that.
 
I just remembered. Before I advanced my timing, it would smoke at start up even when the engine was warm. I think you need just a little more advance BUT I don’t want to give you bad advice and have you advance yours too much since you say it’s already rattley. You don’t know anyone nearby with a Ferret adapter so you can check your timing, do you?
 
I wonder why you had clearance issues with your aneroid and I didn’t? Mine was close, but doable. Hmm.

So Conestoga told you they didn’t like the high pop pressure?
 
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"Like" is a generic word here. Their take: Reduces amount of total fuel reducing power, harder for the pump to mist the fuel while at cranking RPM, messes with advance (duh)... And the white smoke while idling after starting. I literally get a cylinder or two puffing white until I load the engine and heat the precups up enough. I don't know that their suggested timing numbers are public. I will have to find a shop that still has the antique pulse timing tools.

These high pop injectors have never started easy and only because of swapping both pump and injectors due to BioDiesel bugs it wasn't clear. It was clear that the first 6.2 rebuilt pump I dropped on wanted lots of advance over the failed no hot start pump. Never started easy with manual glow plug overide in 100 degree weather... This is why I was surprised at the yellow truck starting without drama or a smoke fog.

Regardless I need to "start over" and make sure I don't have a fuel restriction or air in the system. I already know the fuel heater is an overnight air leak at the wires.
 
This may not help, but food for thought.

From what I remember talking to my old pump builder Scott, he did quite a bit of work to increase not just volume but pressure in his builds. With anything in hydraulics as you increase volume the pressure falls. Pascal’s law. So as your pump was built for high volume it’s output pressure is lower. And as the ratio of pump pressure to injector pop pressure lessens, the harder the pump works.

There is a ratio of output pressure to pop pressure, and as that ratio falls the issues increase. Like a guy that max benches 200 can do 150 a few sets, but a guy that maxes 300 can do 175 all day. Yeah the work gets done but the strufgle means it isn’t getting done well.

The builder has to compensate for it. I remember my builder saying anyone can turn up fuel, but much over stock requires either increasing pump pressures or lowering injector pop pressures. I spoke to a few different pump builders since Scott died, but almost all of them start out by wanting lower than facotry injector pressures- Scott said that was the fastest way to tell if they weren’t compensating for the pressure difference when I first met him in ‘92 or ‘93.

My way modified pumps were huge volume, they also cranked out 6,000 psi. But high pressure and high volume meant they were not intended for 100,000 miles. Everytime I blew an engine he went through the pump just to ensure it was good.

I am still stuck on the 2350 pressure from my experience, but in a phone call the other day, a guy pointed out diffence in fuel from then till now. With the alcohol mixed in that really drops pressure as the viscosity is increased.
 
I would have no problem with a shop building pump and setting the injectors at 2100. It’s when they start having turbo injector dump at 1600-1700 I question how they did it.
 
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