Mikes Crew Hauler

[tanman_2006]

Those look good! I like big blocky tread with close gaps.

 

[DieselSlug]

These are the tires we got for the JK, supposed to mimic the Duratracs that were $300 more. Wanted a tire for the Fiance that was good in the winter. Supposed to be here tomorrow. 35'' flavor.

 

[DieselSlug]

Got the tires installed mid last week. So far I am happy with them. Last week it snowed about 2'', then last night it snowed another 4''. The tires did ok in the slush, ice and snow. The truck definitely needs weight in the back, as the rear brakes sometimes lock and the butt end comes around. The tires were capable of pulling the truck out of the driveway which is uphill through the plow berm left at the end with minimal spinning.

 

[DieselSlug]

This was a picture from the start of the first snow we received.

 

[JayTheCPA]

The truck definitely needs weight in the back, as the rear brakes sometimes lock and the butt end comes around.

I'd get a computer and hook it to the OBD-II as rear-lock is not typical.

Reason for getting a computer to read on-the-fly is that that truck's ECM will not necessarily report codes for braking issues, so you have to drill-into it by way of a computer as a code reader will not see anything.

 

[DieselSlug]

Got the canister installed.

Unfortunately didn't make it to the pump yet. We had a small blizzard hit us early this morning. While the truck was warming up it popped a CEL. PO446.

Drove straight to work and pulled into the shop, dropped the spare tire and behold, the electrical connector was not hooked up! It must have been forgotten. So i connected it and reset the code with my SGII.

One thing i did notice, when the old canister came out, I shook it and you could hear all the beads rattling around in it. The new canister did NOT do this. Maybe a sign that the canister is bad?

I'm going to be stopping at the pump within the hour for a 5 hour work trip.

Pictures from yesterday.

We got the tire dropped using the 9/16 socket trick! Worked like a charm:

Location of the canister is on the drivers side above the spare:

Whole TSB kit, the new vent line routes all the way up under the hood now:

Old canister and vent line:

New routing up into drivers fenderwell:

Dreaded lock pulled out:

Finally, the reason for the CEL this am:

 

[tanman_2006]

Yup, sounds like a failed canister. Fuel getting sucked in from the vent breaks them down.

 

[DieselSlug]

Issue all fixed, fuels up normally now!

Contemplating on a gear swap now. This thing is still gutless. Was making my 5 hour trek back home yesterday in a head wind, truck struggled to hold 70 at 3,000 RPM's. 4.56's or 4.88's.

 

[Ed HD]

You just need a Chevy...

 

[Will L.]

I was thinking a turbo and a program. Lower gears will get you better pull, but you do a bit of hiway miles and your mpg will drop. Turbo will get you the power you want and increase efficiency.

Also like the 6.5 world you knew before, bigger exhaust and muffler will help. Intake will help a lot more on the gasser than it does a diesel.

Are you familiar with the breaking spark plug issue on that engine? When I was the Mac guy I used to sell a ton of the speciality removal tools for it. If not, do some reading before you go to do a tune up. Which leads me to the last recommendation- those engines eat plugs every 25-30,0000 miles.

 

[tanman_2006]

Thought that was only a 4.6l problem? My dad's 5.4 killed coils yearly but never had a plug issue.

I would start with cam locks, intake, exhaust, headers, and tuning. 35's and 4.56's would make for decent Highway cruising, if you tow you will want 4.88's (Highway mpg won't change enough to matter just rpms and noise)

 

[tanman_2006]

Or Cummins swap lol

 

[DieselSlug]

You just need a Chevy...

Haha, even the guys at work are giving me crap about this too.

I was thinking a turbo and a program. Lower gears will get you better pull, but you do a bit of hiway miles and your mpg will drop. Turbo will get you the power you want and increase efficiency.

Also like the 6.5 world you knew before, bigger exhaust and muffler will help. Intake will help a lot more on the gasser than it does a diesel.

Are you familiar with the breaking spark plug issue on that engine? When I was the Mac guy I used to sell a ton of the speciality removal tools for it. If not, do some reading before you go to do a tune up. Which leads me to the last recommendation- those engines eat plugs every 25-30,0000 miles.

I would love a turbo, and I think it is exactly what this truck needs. However there aren't any bolt on options for the 08+ Super Duty. Most of the kits are for an F150 and can be fabbed up, but I really have no time to do this anymore. I now dont have a slew of vehicles and this is the one and only DD.

It has a K&N CAI on it that whistles like a friggen freight train. From what I've read the 3v 5.4L stock intake is good. I figured jumping straight to the gears will be the best bang for the buck when modding a 5.4L. Eventually I will have my buddy put together a tune for this truck after I get the Mustang done.

I know the earlier 5.4L engines had major spark plug issues, thus the main reason I stayed away from those years. In 2008 Ford changed the spark plug design for the 5.4L and they are no longer prone to breaking like the 07- older. Im sure these plugs are original also.

Thought that was only a 4.6l problem? My dad's 5.4 killed coils yearly but never had a plug issue.

I would start with cam locks, intake, exhaust, headers, and tuning. 35's and 4.56's would make for decent Highway cruising, if you tow you will want 4.88's (Highway mpg won't change enough to matter just rpms and noise)

The phasers are starting to get loud on this truck already, warm idle they do the common knocking. It does still have the OEM exhaust, which will be replaced when it rots out with a large single exit. I was on the fence about the headers as I hear shortys hurt low end power and gain top end. Honestly don't want to lose anything on the low end. I figured this was the way to justify the gear swap, saving $700 in headers.

Or Cummins swap lol

That would be a great setup. Here in NYS inspections would blow that out of the water in a heart beat.

 

[Will L.]

My apologies. I thought 08 was the last year of the breaking plug issues. Look at me shooting from the hip while your being an educated consumer.

 

[btfarm]

You just need a Chevy...

Haha, even the guys at work are giving me crap about this too.

I recall you were giving them rides... They COULD be walking...

 

[tanman_2006]

My apologies. I thought 08 was the last year of the breaking plug issues. Look at me shooting from the hip while your being an educated consumer.

Not sure if 08 did have the problem or not but it didn't bother ours.

Maybe he just got lucky, I know there was a string of years that did this frequently.

 

[DieselSlug]

My apologies. I thought 08 was the last year of the breaking plug issues. Look at me shooting from the hip while your being an educated consumer.

Honestly, when I was younger I always stayed away from the 5.4L, thought it was the biggest POS out there with spark plug issues, cam phaser issues, intake and exhaust manifold issues etc... In 08 they updated the spark plug design, however there are still manifold issues and phaser issues. Seems like even if you replace the phasers, chains and guides they are still prone to the warm idle knocking. I've seen the phaser blocks for sale, but man are they expensive! And I'm honestly not 100% sure what exactly they do besides make the noise stop, not even sure how.

I recall you were giving them rides... They COULD be walking...

Haha, yes some of them. Got a good battle going on between the Boss and myself, he has a 2014 Duramax. Keep telling him if I get a company truck I wont discriminate!

Not sure if 08 did have the problem or not but it didn't bother ours.

Maybe he just got lucky, I know there was a string of years that did this frequently.

I really want to get the plugs swapped out soon, but a new issue arose and I seem to have a vibration at 55-75. Its a high frequency so it has to be direct drive line. Thinking a joint somewhere or maybe the carrier bearing for the rear shaft. Hope to get it on the lift to look everything over this weekend. This truck is already getting nickle & dimey....

I think the PO hardly ever drove it and it sat most of its life. Doing the calcs it went an average of 14-16K per year. TO me that not much, I'm usually 40K a year. Now with me cranking the miles the issues are coming out.

I forgot how awesome it is to not have to open the hood every three days at the gas pump anymore!

 

[tanman_2006]

The phasers lock it at a set timing. You pick the size of block to select the timing you want to lock it in at, after that it's just a tune to tune out the phaser. Depending on your wants its can be set for bottom end, mid, or high rpm power.

 

[ak diesel driver]

here ya go
http://anchorage.craigslist.org/pts/5423886040.html

 

[DieselSlug]

here ya go
http://anchorage.craigslist.org/pts/5423886040.html

Haha, my truck would rip with that and the right tuning. Just have to figure out where/how to mount that damn spider under the hood!

Next upgrades/fixes will be a new passenger manifold, gasket and bolts. The truck ticks wicked when cold but quiets right up when warm. We checked all the studs and none a broken, but we still have to get them out. Don't see any carbon build up sneaking out of any joints either.

After I get my taxes back I will use some of that money for the gear swap to 4.56's. I measured my 35's and they are actually 34's, so with the 4.56's and my 0.72 overdrive i "should" be spinning ~2200 RPM at 70 MPH, im currently at about ~1700 at 70 MPH.

The gear sets are about $200 EA, master Rebuilds about $100 EA, might get a rear Aluminum Diff cover and synthetic fluids. My shop will do both axles for $500.