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Mikes Crew Hauler

No kidding!

The dealer wants me to try and take the truck to a local Mopar dealer and see if they will cover it. I'm sure they wont because its a powertrain warranty, and this obviously isn't powertrain. Will check out warranty papers tonight.
 
Took the truck back down to the Dealer, about 2.5 hour drive getting there at 8:10AM. We left the truck and walked about a half mile down the road to grab breakfast. It was done about 9:30, the Dealer Blew shop air through the vent line and vapor solenoid in the canister. He said it took air, they stopped at the pump and said it fueled up fine. I told them my concerns with it happening again and me having to drive all the way down there. They seemed that they solved the issue with the "clogged vent".

So before i left the small town of Towanda, PA i stopped at the local Sheetz and attempted to fill. Bam, problem still there. I made it up to $9.00 and the pump clicked off about 10 times. Piled back in and headed back to the dealer. The Dealer know thinks that it its something within the vapor canister that has failed/restricted. They didn't have the canister there, so for a temporary fix he was going to pull the vent line to the canister to get me by. On the Super Dutys the vapor canister is located above the spare tire. So the Dealer proceeded to lower, but Ford has a "key" to lower the spare tire that was not included with my truck, or misplaced by a previous owner!

Now I'm confused here..... So the Dealer removed the vapor line and blew shop air through it? So that would entail taking the line off the vapor canister. But now, since the Dealer cant remove the spare tire the line cant be removed? So how did the tech remove the line in the first place to blow shop air through it if he couldn't remove the tire? I never really got a straight answer to this....

By this time I'm frustrated and began taking it out on the sales lady. The dealer is contacting their Ford service representative to see if the part can be replaced up here near my home. It took me over 15 minutes to fill the truck Sunday night.

Waiting to see what today brings....
 
For the fuel to cover a 5 hour ride, a reputable indie shop might prove less expensive . . .

On the Good News front . . . At least you (should) have a spare tire key on its way to you. Definitely better to discover this now rather then when you have the truck up on a jack.
 
Hunting pic this weekend of the struggle to make it into the woods. Still waiting on my check form the dealer to purchase some new tires.

IMG_1014_zpspkp8twwe.jpg
 
JayTheCPA said:
For the fuel to cover a 5 hour ride, a reputable indie shop might prove less expensive . . .

On the Good News front . . . At least you (should) have a spare tire key on its way to you. Definitely better to discover this now rather then when you have the truck up on a jack.
Click to expand...

For sure, I'm done being nice to the Dealer, I've spent enough money and my time for a truck that's covered.

As soon as i find out what key (there is 16 different ones) that my truck needs I'm going to order it.
 
DieselSlug said:
Hunting pic this weekend of the struggle to make it into the woods.
Click to expand...

Two thoughts.
> If it was not part of the adventure, consider lowering the psi to 20 - 30. Sure, you do not want to drive at speed with this pressure, but it will help on soft turf.

> If not already aware, the Ferd 4WD powertrain can in fact result in 1WD as the locking rear diff is not that great at locking. If one of the rear's spin, then that is probably all you are going to get. Changing the differential's fluid and adding the correct amount of friction modifier might help for a little while. Consider making a budget for a Detroit locker conversion. (Definitely not bashing, just saying.)
 
JayTheCPA said:
Two thoughts.
> If it was not part of the adventure, consider lowering the psi to 20 - 30. Sure, you do not want to drive at speed with this pressure, but it will help on soft turf.
Click to expand...

I did think about this after the fact. I have not checked the pressure yet of these tires. To my surprise they are only load range D, i expected E. I was honestly hoping they wouldn't be on long enough for me to worry, but I'm still awaiting my check from the Dealer with my NYS plate package (temporary right now). These tires have 1/8-1/16'' of tread remaining.

JayTheCPA said:
> If not already aware, the Ferd 4WD powertrain can in fact result in 1WD as the locking rear diff is not that great at locking. If one of the rear's spin, then that is probably all you are going to get. Changing the differential's fluid and adding the correct amount of friction modifier might help for a little while. Consider making a budget for a Detroit locker conversion. (Definitely not bashing, just saying.)
Click to expand...

So this truck stumped me a little as i am more familiar with the old school locking hubs. They had 2-positions, free and locked. Mine have auto and locked. So in auto the truck uses the vacuum system, in locked it bypasses the factory system. My fiances father said the front two tires weren't spinning as fast as the rear two when i had it in auto. I put it in locked to get out and the truck seemed to have done a little better (maybe something up with vacuum system and i wasn't truly in 4wd?).

My old FX4 F150 had the E-Locker and it worked great. Sadly this truck only being a lariat doesn't have it. It looks like after this picture the passenger rear was spinning and the drivers front was spinning. So it seemed like the rear limited slip wasn't functioning at all. (this truck is supposed to be 3.73's w/limited slip).

As you can tell from the picture its hard packed farm paths, but when it rains they become very slimy. Most are on side inclines or going up/down steep hills.

I really want the Cooper AT3 tires, but there is a sale going on for Kumho Road Venture KL78's for over $100 less per tire in the 35'' flavor.
 
DieselSlug said:
It looks like after this picture the passenger rear was spinning and the drivers front was spinning. So it seemed like the rear limited slip wasn't functioning at all. (this truck is supposed to be 3.73's w/limited slip).
Click to expand...

It probably does have LS, but going 'free' is very common. IIRC, the rear diff will have a metal tag on it (kind of like a toe tag) which should give details about the internals.

Change the rear diff fluid and add the MotorCraft friction modifier (IIRC, one bottle). This might get you through the Winter until it goes free again . . . Your choice on dyno or synthetic where synthetic will get you about 1/2 mpg increase over dyno.
 
JayTheCPA said:
It probably does have LS, but going 'free' is very common. IIRC, the rear diff will have a metal tag on it (kind of like a toe tag) which should give details about the internals.

Change the rear diff fluid and add the MotorCraft friction modifier (IIRC, one bottle). This might get you through the Winter until it goes free again . . . Your choice on dyno or synthetic where synthetic will get you about 1/2 mpg increase over dyno.
Click to expand...

Yeah, i will probably use synthetic fluids as the truck will spend most of its time on the Highway for work. Have to get some work done on the Jeep first, hopefully the weather holds back long enough fo me to get to this myself.

I want to spray some oil on the underside of this rig too. I didn't have the time/money to get it undercoated.
 
Re: Jays comment on lowering the pressure: most Everyone hears it helps to lower, but it wasnt until playing with the on board air in the hummer how much i learned about it. Anyone thats gets offroad ought to have a little compressor with you, and then play with it to learn what pressure is right for your truck/ tires in mud, sand, etc.

The difference in 5 lbs too little or too much is amazing. I learned in my suburban that going from normally 65 down to 25 helped a bit, but once i hit 20- WOW! In my buddys 05 2500 dmax, it was 30-35 in front and 15 in rear for the magic spot.

Different tire makes a bit of difference in what is best also. So many of you guys probably run same tires that one weekend experimenting could help yourself and others.

Sorry to side track, and sorry to hear of the continued problems. When i owned the truck equipment shop we would fix these issues for dealers and owners alike. No one issue unfortunately- its like chasing an intermittent electrical problem- just a p.i.t.a. I would push for new fill hose and a tank drop to start.
 
Well the Dealer requested me to go to a Ford Dealer and get the issue diagnosed. I went to Burdick Lincoln as i know a guy who is a tech there. There is a TSB issued for this truck and the issue I'm having. They say the vent is stubbed into the bed cross rail and dirt/dust falls into it and slowly plugs the canister. The TSB has a new canister, as well as a vent line that points down instead of up. They want $935.06 plus tax to replace the canister, vent line and gas gap. Forwarded right to the Dealer i purchased the truck from. Will see what happens!

Oh, and i was charged $130 to diagnose this. Sent that to the Purchasing Dealer too!
 
Will L. said:
Re: Jays comment on lowering the pressure: most Everyone hears it helps to lower, but it wasnt until playing with the on board air in the hummer how much i learned about it. Anyone thats gets offroad ought to have a little compressor with you, and then play with it to learn what pressure is right for your truck/ tires in mud, sand, etc.

The difference in 5 lbs too little or too much is amazing. I learned in my suburban that going from normally 65 down to 25 helped a bit, but once i hit 20- WOW! In my buddys 05 2500 dmax, it was 30-35 in front and 15 in rear for the magic spot.

Different tire makes a bit of difference in what is best also. So many of you guys probably run same tires that one weekend experimenting could help yourself and others.

Sorry to side track, and sorry to hear of the continued problems. When i owned the truck equipment shop we would fix these issues for dealers and owners alike. No one issue unfortunately- its like chasing an intermittent electrical problem- just a p.i.t.a. I would push for new fill hose and a tank drop to start.
Click to expand...

I do really need to see what pressures they are at, who knows they might be all over!
This weekend i will check them out. I've done a lot of 4 wheeling in my old jeep and never aired down mainly because i didn't have a means to air back up! Was always afraid to break a bead out on the trail too.
 
Little bit of starting fluid and a foam will seat any bead.

A large air impressed is nice for time, but a $50 unit will get it done.
 
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