Mikes Crew Hauler

[DieselSlug]

Well looks like the net issue with the truck is knocking on my front door...

Been experiencing some vibrations at 70-75 MPH on the highway. Lately those vibrations have gotten worse and now start at about 60 MPH up to 75 MPH. you can feel them in the steering wheel sometimes leading me to think its the front end. Did a quick look over of the truck first thing this morning checking the u-joints, as that's what i figured would be bad. Both front axle u-joints seem tight with no play. As i grabbed the axle shaft at the joint I wiggled it up and down. There was a good 1/4 of play on the drivers side. Passenger was a little less, but still more than i would have expected.

Did a lot of searching and it appears if my diagnosis is right this is a common problem. There is a needle bearing in the back of the hub assembly (unit bearing) that supports the weight of the axle shaft itself and that's what the axle shaft rides on in the knuckle.

See the how to made by a gent on the Ford Truck forum: http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F250NeedleBearings.htm

I ended up giving the misses a ride to work today and left the truck home. After researching I really think this is my issue, so out to NAPA to get (2) needle bearings and (2) outer axle shaft seals. Grand total of $180 (Man, I miss my GM IFS, never costed me this much even plowing!)

Hope to find out tonight what the issue is exactly. I did not check the front and rear driveshaft joints as my driveway is a slop hole now (yup 60 degrees in February..) This truck also has a carrier bearing that I want to make sure to inspect tonight also.

 

[DieselSlug]

Well figured out the issue. Was actually a bad upper ball joint. Once I got the tire off the ground i could spot it. Went to Napa and got their premiums, Limited Lifetime. Hopefully they hold out. Found out there are no needle bearings on the 08-up trucks (from my mechanic). So I can take those two back and 1 axle seal.

 

[DieselSlug]

Well I have put about 8,000 miles on this truck so far. For the past few weeks I have started to notice a vibration in the front end. It makes a strange rotational hub clunk when turning to the right, but not the left.

I originally thought I had a hub assembly (Bearing) going bad. So I purchased one while I was out of town to replace when i got back. Jacked up the front of the truck and didn't find any play or strange noises while rotating both tires. I did notice however that the front drive shaft was rotating as I turned each tire. Come to find out my hubs were not disengaging all the way. So when I get up to 65-75 the truck vibrates. The hubs are either AUTO or LOCK, with a vacuum secondary. Finally got them to disengage by turning them back and forth a few times. They move freely, so I never thought they were an issue. They are the OEM Ford Lockouts. Looks like i need to take them apart and re-grease before I have to use 4wd again.

I am going to return the hub assembly (Bearing) I purchased and get a passenger side manifold and stud kit. The exhaust leak has gotten much worse.

The Kuhmo KL-78's are wearing decently. However I do notice that they flat spot VERY easily just sitting overnight. I am running them at a low PSI (25) because they are a 12.6'' wide tire on a 9'' rim.

 

[JayTheCPA]

For the past few weeks I have started to notice a vibration in the front end. It makes a strange rotational hub clunk when turning to the right, but not the left.

. . . I did notice however that the front drive shaft was rotating as I turned each tire. Come to find out my hubs were not disengaging all the way.

IIRC, there are a couple aftermarket hubs that have a much better reputation than OE.

And from an old topic, start looking into a Truetrac to cure the rear. Plenty of positive feedback about using it to fix Ford's (lack of) limited slip.

The Kuhmo KL-78's . . . flat spot VERY easily just sitting overnight. I am running them at a low PSI (25) . . .

Am not the best expert, and suspect the pressure might have something to do with that

 

[DieselSlug]

IIRC, there are a couple aftermarket hubs that have a much better reputation than OE.

And from an old topic, start looking into a Truetrac to cure the rear. Plenty of positive feedback about using it to fix Ford's (lack of) limited slip.




Am not the best expert, and suspect the pressure might have something to do with that

Haha, could very well be! Honestly i would like to go a little lower, but don't feel safe doing so. This truck has Limited Slip, however I think its spent. Maybe someday I will.

Currently am contemplating how long i'm going to keep this truck. Extremely disappointed with it its power, but like everything else. I miss my Diesel badly, but a gasser is very convenient (get in and go plus less up-keep). Thinking about over time doing a gear swap, exhaust and tune. I think that will be enough for my needs, but I don't want to be disappointed in the end if I still don't like its performance. On the fence right now.

 

[WarWagon]

There just isn't diesel low RPM torque to be found in a gas engine. Sure plenty of power when you wind some gas engines up. Then there is the turbo angle. All make a gas engine feel different than a diesel - even with both having turbo's.

All you can do is get a a 6.X big gas engine and then maybe aftermarket supercharge or turbo it. Not sure what is offered but the 5.X 350 ish engines, although much improved, just don't have the feel you want.

Fuel is cheap now and for the first time in a long time diesel is actually cheaper than gasoline. Still the maintenance and cost of the diesel is hard to justify by numbers especially when something expensive lets go on the damn diesel. (In context of the HPCR stuff vs. our inexpensive 6.5's.) Seriously my 2003 5.9 MT 2WD will get 16 with the AC on and pass 20 MPG on the freeway with the AC off only to be waxed by a modern 1/2 ton crew cab getting 25 MPG V6. V8's get just under 20 MPG. Then there is the 1/2ton diesel offerings. Towing justifies a diesel. Everything else is preference.

We both know the Chevy front ends cost you way more than this Ford has so far. Front ends are a wear item, but, GM of the 6.5 era were a little more trouble than most.

At the end of the day you have to realize that you need to buy and drive what YOU want to own. Have the conversation with the wife and family that the first wife is your pickup and she is just a mistress in context. This saves all kinds of trouble when you blow 5 figures on your diesel truck. (Remember to spend $19.99 on 12 red roses when doing so.) So quit looking for excuses to off the Ford and just DO IT!

 

[DieselSlug]

There just isn't diesel low RPM torque to be found in a gas engine. Sure plenty of power when you wind some gas engines up. Then there is the turbo angle. All make a gas engine feel different than a diesel - even with both having turbo's.

All you can do is get a a 6.X big gas engine and then maybe aftermarket supercharge or turbo it. Not sure what is offered but the 5.X 350 ish engines, although much improved, just don't have the feel you want.

Fuel is cheap now and for the first time in a long time diesel is actually cheaper than gasoline. Still the maintenance and cost of the diesel is hard to justify by numbers especially when something expensive lets go on the damn diesel. (In context of the HPCR stuff vs. our inexpensive 6.5's.) Seriously my 2003 5.9 MT 2WD will get 16 with the AC on and pass 20 MPG on the freeway with the AC off only to be waxed by a modern 1/2 ton crew cab getting 25 MPG V6. V8's get just under 20 MPG. Then there is the 1/2ton diesel offerings. Towing justifies a diesel. Everything else is preference.

We both know the Chevy front ends cost you way more than this Ford has so far. Front ends are a wear item, but, GM of the 6.5 era were a little more trouble than most.

At the end of the day you have to realize that you need to buy and drive what YOU want to own. Have the conversation with the wife and family that the first wife is your pickup and she is just a mistress in context. This saves all kinds of trouble when you blow 5 figures on your diesel truck. (Remember to spend $19.99 on 12 red roses when doing so.) So quit looking for excuses to off the Ford and just DO IT!

Haha, 'aint that the truth. Really not a fan of the new diesel rigs, just WAY to complex for my liking. Up to 2007 is my current Diesel comfort level if I did get rid of my truck. Of Course the Fiance' and her family is DIE HARD Ford. Me personally used to be Chevy, now I just don't give a crap. Getting much harder to finance early 2000's without getting raped on interest rates, none-the-less finding a truck that has been cared for and the owner isn't asking an astronomical amount for.

Honestly at this point i'm open to the big 3. Really some test drives are needed to get me going, but I'm getting a little wiser now and love practicality. Was thinking a turbo kit on a gasser would make me happy, but I'm also looking to go away from fabrication. It's nice to get parts right at the store while out on the road if needed.

I miss my 6.5L everyday, but I would really like to stick with something a little newer at least. I drive a lot (Travel multiple times per week) and need to haul clients and Subs around. Sometimes I even need to haul equipment and trailers. So creature comforts are really important to me. Plus I get a monthly car allowance.

 

[Will L.]

Don't wait on pulling apart the hubs. If your lucky then yes some clean new grease will do it. But if it scored a little and you clean it up now with scotch pads, the new grease can keep it good a long time and no replacement needed.

Don't think of it just a needed for 4wheeling. Would you let the bearings go knowing the grease is so bad it's heating the bearing face? That's why those have a bad reputation is people "knowing" they can let it go a while longer.

Remember what your mammy taught ya- a stitch I time saves 9!

 

[WarWagon]

They make "kits" for supercharging and maybe even turbo kits for specific gas engines. Bolt on no fuss. Looks like Paxton and ProCharger have some options over at House Of Boost. http://www.houseofboost.com

Other than belts and pulleys there isn't anything a local store is going to carry and a failure is a major BFD get the hook ride home anyway. You got AAA for concerns like this... And some parts and install like the charcoal can mess mean failures being fixed on the side of the road are pretty rare now. Alternators maybe starters and even batteries are becoming a real ordeal to change.

 

[DieselSlug]

Don't wait on pulling apart the hubs. If your lucky then yes some clean new grease will do it. But if it scored a little and you clean it up now with scotch pads, the new grease can keep it good a long time and no replacement needed.

Don't think of it just a needed for 4wheeling. Would you let the bearings go knowing the grease is so bad it's heating the bearing face? That's why those have a bad reputation is people "knowing" they can let it go a while longer.

Remember what your mammy taught ya- a stitch I time saves 9!

I had them apart back when the ball joints were done, and they definitely weren't dry. May just need some cleaning?

They make "kits" for supercharging and maybe even turbo kits for specific gas engines. Bolt on no fuss. Looks like Paxton and ProCharger have some options over at House Of Boost. http://www.houseofboost.com

Other than belts and pulleys there isn't anything a local store is going to carry and a failure is a major BFD get the hook ride home anyway. You got AAA for concerns like this... And some parts and install like the charcoal can mess mean failures being fixed on the side of the road are pretty rare now. Alternators maybe starters and even batteries are becoming a real ordeal to change.

I don't see a kit for an F250 on that site? I'm sure you could get an F150 kit to fit, but then it would require fabbing. Also heard the rods in the 5.4L are the weak point when adding Boost? I've even looked at Whipple, Paxton and Procharger. Would rather go turbo than supercharger.

 

[Ed HD]

Turbo is going to make the grunt problem worse, not better. You're gonna want to keep it in lower gears towing, keep the revs up, etc. For towing, and grunt, a roots or screw-type S/C is the way to go. Makes max boost almost immediately, which makes great torque. Even a centrifugal S/C can't match the grunt of a roots type.

Honestly, I'd be looking at an 07 2500HD Classic CCSB Duramax. Mike has proven that they go for a couple hundred thousand miles with no more than basic maintenance and repair, and you can still probably get a decent rate on one.

 

[JayTheCPA]

This truck has Limited Slip, however I think its spent.

The Ford LS of that era is trash. Check out the Ford forums as this is a known issue. Chances are good that it will come back to life with a fluid change and a fresh bottle of Motorcraft friction modifier. Won't last long though.

If you want LS, get the Truetrack. Otherwise just drive it with an open rear


For the hubs, check out FTE and PSN to see what is the current favorite. My vote is not to dork with them, replace them with something that will last.


And if you wanted power from that Ferd, should have gone with the V10. It is not easy on the fuel though

 

[DieselSlug]

Turbo is going to make the grunt problem worse, not better. You're gonna want to keep it in lower gears towing, keep the revs up, etc. For towing, and grunt, a roots or screw-type S/C is the way to go. Makes max boost almost immediately, which makes great torque. Even a centrifugal S/C can't match the grunt of a roots type.

Honestly, I'd be looking at an 07 2500HD Classic CCSB Duramax. Mike has proven that they go for a couple hundred thousand miles with no more than basic maintenance and repair, and you can still probably get a decent rate on one.

Could be in the works. Just need to get my butt motivated to want to deal with a dealer again, as I owe on this truck. So it wouldn't be a simple private sale. Trying to weight the options of going through with it and getting someones issues again too..

The Ford LS of that era is trash. Check out the Ford forums as this is a known issue. Chances are good that it will come back to life with a fluid change and a fresh bottle of Motorcraft friction modifier. Won't last long though.

If you want LS, get the Truetrack. Otherwise just drive it with an open rear


For the hubs, check out FTE and PSN to see what is the current favorite. My vote is not to dork with them, replace them with something that will last.


And if you wanted power from that Ferd, should have gone with the V10. It is not easy on the fuel though

Yeah, I told myself I would NEVER own a 5.4L and here I am. I couldn't help myself when i went to look at it, thye gave me what i was looking for out of my old F150 and the F250 truck was super clean. Only downfall was the 5.4L...

 

[DieselSlug]

Did a few thing son the truck over the first nice weekend of the year. Wash wax, finally mounted the Scan Gauge II, and removed the two crappy lights from the Brush Guard. P/O did a horrible scab job with the lights.

 

[Will L.]

Ive seen that mod before. Add a light, subtract a fuse mod, right?

 

[DieselSlug]

Ive seen that mod before. Add a light, subtract a fuse mod, right?

It blew my mind! Didn't plan on doing it but after I saw how it was done I knew it needed to go! Luckily the studs on the light casings broke right off the guard with my 1/2'' rachet!

 

[Will L.]

Quality parts, qualified installer! If you need more of his work, he lives in the tent down by exit 31....

 

[DieselSlug]

Typical for tick has proceeded to get loud enough that it ticks even when warm. All studs appear to be in-tact still and in good shape. I don't see any soot nor can I feel any puffs of air on startup. Was going to buy headers, but that's a tough pill to swallow at $700. Id rather spend that money on gears, something more worth the gain. Next I looked into OEM manifolds for about $150, Rock Auto has Dorman replacement manifolds on sale now with a Limited Lifetime. The reviews online looked good. So for $62 (after Will's 5% discount code and sale price). Got the part in 2 days:

Waiting on my SS stud kit off eBay. Hope to tackle this weekend weather permitting. Fingers crossed for no broken studs. Damn 5.4l's.

 

[Ed HD]

If you have a die-grinder with a carbide bit, I bet you could clean up the casting flash and open up the ports a little bit for some gain... Just don't go too crazy, and keep the flat bottom.

 

[DieselSlug]

If you have a die-grinder with a carbide bit, I bet you could clean up the casting flash and open up the ports a little bit for some gain... Just don't go too crazy, and keep the flat bottom.

That is a good idea, I actually don't have one of those tools. All i have is a dremel and a 4.5'' grinder. All i have for a compressor is a puny 2 gallon pancake.