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Low Compression 6.2

6.2 turbo

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I got my Tahoe running and driving. Shaved the pistons .090,and chambered the heads,na 6.2 precups,custom ground cam,and used nascar springs. It needs some timing adjustments,but runs pretty good for such low compression. The turbo lights from 0-43 psi in like 1 second,and surges and chirps easier. Also has a major boost leak somewear. We had the motor installed,filled with coolant and oil and ready to start in less than 4 hours,starting with a bare long block.
 
Just me and my cousin. I also changed the torque converter to one made for a 350 gas motor. Stalls around 2000 rpms,no low end torque.
 
I've heard a lot about this build up from Verlin and George! What compression ratio did you go with this time and still a Pro52 on the passenger side setup? Riding in that unit was very impressive...like to see it run down the track!
 
I estimate it to be 15-1 or less. Same turbo,manifolds and ip. Same boost psi.
 
I think the cam has to go. Too much exhaust is getting in the intake stroke. It acts and sounds really strange when cold or warm. It has to be hot to run right. Cranking psi is 220.
 
I think the cam has to go. Too much exhaust is getting in the intake stroke. It acts and sounds really strange when cold or warm. It has to be hot to run right. Cranking psi is 220.

You mean too much valve overlap?

I've watched a lot of your projects, it always impresses me the amount of innovation and experimentation you do.

I agree with SCtrailrider, we should start a betting pool for how long it'll survive.
 
I think there is too much overlap. It seems to have uncontrolable extremly advanced ignition at light loads. Full load and boost it runs fine up to 4500 rpms. Anybody ever do a cam swap with the heads on and still in the vehicle ?
 
I think if a component survives, it should be branded or given the 6.2turbo stamp of approval.

I helped with a cam swap, only it was in a 400 sbc. Heads stayed on, but with the intake off, pulling the lifters was quite easy. Had to pull the radiator and grill out. Probably less work than our diesels..
 
Probably stating the obvious here, but what about long needle nosed pliers? Like say, 6"? Should have enough reach to get the lifters out.
 
I was thinking more along the lines of a lifter remover tool. but even if you get them out of the bore will it fit thru the head?
 
They do fit ,I changed one lifter with the heads on. It will be difficult to do all of them.
 
I've done a cam swap on my 6.5 without pulling the heads. It is doable but takes time and patience to get the lifters back in. Took me a few hours to get them installed. Long thin screwdriver, long double jointed needle nose pliers are needed. Not needed but extremely helpful is if you have a borescope camera, let's you see in the tight corners. Truth be told though since you have to drain the coolant anyway it would be faster to just pull the heads, much easier too.
 
I put the stock cam back in ,used a magnet and a screwdriver for the lifters. Took it on a test drive,seems to have lost lots of power,but pretty sure I broke the input shaft on the tranny. Tremendous bang ,and still have line psi. Doesn't grind when put in park,but park holds. I find it amazing that a 8.5 10 bolt is stronger than a 4l80-e.
 
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