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Long, slow build of my truck

No, me either. Which is why I think once the truck gets more fuel put to it, it will need the HX40. Spools only a little slower than the GM-4.
 
I still think you should make a hx35/hx40 hybrid. Should spool like a 35 and put out even more volume of air.

Yeah hybrids are definitely a great setup for sure. I just think that if I can spool a 12cm housing as quick as I can on stock fuel, a housing that size would become a restriction at higher rpms with more fuel.
 
My HX40w CKO lites up right away w/Heath's Maxi Torque tune, bellows a good amount of black smoke when I nail it (way more than w/GM8) which soons dissipates and my Burb hauls a__ and mean really hauls. I'll be getting the HX40 specific tune Bill recently did for someone for their 6.5td w/4L80. My driving style has changed by not having the need for lots of pedal input as before.

I suspect the later smoke on your 6.5 is bypass under boost!

The easier spooling w/auto is because of tq multiplication of converter the more "X" built in the quicker the spool however a manual with a deep 1st gear should spool fast too with more pedal input IMHO.


Finally someone else who knows that a torque converter multiplies torque. You wouldn't believe the amount of explaining and arguing I have done with people over that!


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I am running a 14cm housing on my hybrid. It spools pretty dang quick with the fuel I am running. After I fixed the exhaust leak I didn't know about, it spools near as fast as the gm8 did, but is good to a much higher boost. And it sounds amazing!!


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Finally someone else who knows that a torque converter multiplies torque. You wouldn't believe the amount of explaining and arguing I have done with people over that!


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That's exactly the reason for the quicker spooling w/auto fuel is the other part of the mix.
 
Picking this up again, its been awhile since I did anything with the truck. Snow is pounding New England, so snowblower sales are through the roof. And with school being back in session, I have much less time than I used to. Also, saving for a Duramax, so money for the 6.5 is going on the back burner.

Anyways, the Carter lift pump I have been running for the last year or so has given up the ghost, no doubt in thanks to the cold weather, and does not kick on anymore. I first noticed it a couple weeks back intermittently, now it doesnt even try. On Sunday I ordered a Walbro FRC-10 with fitting kit from Leroy, and it came in the mail today. Should go on this weekend.

On a side note, with the Duramax in mind, the build is going to be a little less substantial than I had originally planned. Ideally, the Duramax will be used for the heavy lifting, and the 6.5 will be the daily driver, grocery getter, and haul-stuff-in-the-bed-so-as-not-to-beat-up-the-Duramax'er. Plans now are fresh injectors, finish the upper intake setup using the Peninsular piece, Heath tune, and gauges. Down the road, either the NV4500 or a moderate rebuild of the 4L80E, and maybe head studs.
 
Finally someone else who knows that a torque converter multiplies torque. You wouldn't believe the amount of explaining and arguing I have done with people over that!


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Why argue. Point them here and walk away if they don't get it:

[Video]

That's about as simple as it gets. First year mechanics stuff.....:)
 
What Carter pump are you using?

Napa for a '93 truck, supposedly slightly higher output vs. a '94+ pump.

Just wait until you read all of the mods possible with the DMax. :D

Yeah I have been reading up, and know enough people with them to have an idea. Really just looking to do basic stuff, intake, exhaust, egr delete, edge tune.
 
Really just looking to do basic stuff, intake, exhaust, egr delete, edge tune.

Heheheheh . . . That is where it starts. But rarely where it ends!

Shortly after going down the DMax road, one day you will wake up (probably right after pricing a set of rebuilt injectors), go running back to the 6.5, and beg for forgiveness!!! :D:D:D
 
My friend had a duramax with similar mods. He had a huge problem with the truck though. It kept wearing out the rear tires every few 1000 miles. He would buy a set and in a month they would be down to the wear bars. He couldn't figure it out for the longest time. Finally after extensive diagnostic it came down to the drivers right foot. Once that was replaced things went much smoother. He could get a set to last almost two months.
 
Heheheheh . . . That is where it starts. But rarely where it ends!

Shortly after going down the DMax road, one day you will wake up (probably right after pricing a set of rebuilt injectors), go running back to the 6.5, and beg for forgiveness!!! :D:D:D
Half the reason I want a Duramax is to take the 6.5 off the road for a bit to play the go-fast parts game :)
 
FRC-10 is in, with only one small leak which I have narrowed down to a clamp that needs to be taught a thing or two. Truck seems to run good, maybe a hair quicker than before. Hard to tell via butt dyno. I know my injectors are doing so hot and the truck pukes blow-by so its probably not a good representation of what the FRC is capable of. Either way, keeps up no problem under heavy acceleration and runs good. Havent installed a gauge yet. I will probably do that this summer when I update the rest of the fuel system. Installation was pretty easy. Utilized a factory hole, measured and drilled another. Put a piece of rubber between the frame and the pump. We used the fittings from Leroy which made things very easy. We cut the front line about 3" and re-flared it to keep the rubber hose bends to a minimum. Also, something for future reference, and maybe something for Leroy to consider is using a 90* elbow for both the intake and output ports on the pump. I will post pics tomorrow, but basically we only needed about 5" of rubber hose to complete the install. Left a very clean looking install without hoses criss-crossing each other. Just an idea. Overall very satisfied with it, and good to know it will support fuel upgrades more than my factory one ever could.
 
The straight fittings are the one that come with the pump. A 1/4" St ell is what I use for top fitting. Thank you for the referral.
 
Progress has been slow if nonexistent in the last couple weeks. Havent had time to snap any pics of the FRC-10 yet but I surely will. I think the truck is going to get an engine one way or another this year. Have a couple leads on running engines in the $400-600 range. Plan would be to clean it up, stud it with fresh gaskets, paint it, and some fresh injectors. I still want to go with a performance DB2 pump, but that would necessitate the NV4500 as well. Maybe just another DS4 engine with a Heath tune and keep the 4L80E, dunno.

In any event, I ran the truck on a dyno last night for shits and giggles, put down 160/320 at the wheels. Factor in 20% loss of power thru the auto, and it was at about 185/385 at the crank. I sold the HX40, so I will be sticking with the 35 for now, which should be plenty.

At this point, I want to pick up an engine and get started on it.
 
Couple small housekeeping things got done today. Replaced cab light bulb that was out, did 2" blocks in the back and 4' cb whips. Ill have pics tomorrow. Gonna focus a little energy on some aesthetic stuff while I save and look for an engine.
 
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