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Long, slow build of my truck

With this age of vehicle, it is not about getting the money back out of it. The decisions are to either band-aid it as a beater, or invest in its future use / enjoyment and not expect to get the money back. Either approach is less expensive and just as useful compared to something new(er).
 
I agree with what Jay is saying. My stepside is worth more in parts then as a whole truck. So from a money stand point it doesn't make any sense to invest what I have in it. But it brings me a lot of enjoyment when I drive it so that's why I spend the money on it.
 
JayTheCPA said:
With this age of vehicle, it is not about getting the money back out of it. The decisions are to either band-aid it as a beater, or invest in its future use / enjoyment and not expect to get the money back. Either approach is less expensive and just as useful compared to something new(er).
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I totally agree, and Im not really looking at it from a getting money back out standpoint. If I was, I wouldnt have done PMD, turbo, injection pump, batteries, alternator, front end, and brakes in the first 2 years! Haha. I just cant see spending 5-7k on an engine that will never make more than 300hp. If I wanted to spend that kind of money, I could buy a 12 valve, and do a complete swap with 5 speed. I would rather find a good used block, stud it, give it some fuel and a turbo, and make 230-250hp and continue to tinker with it.
 
pacificdrumma said:
I totally agree, and Im not really looking at it from a getting money back out standpoint. If I was, I wouldnt have done PMD, turbo, injection pump, batteries, alternator, front end, and brakes in the first 2 years! Haha. I just cant see spending 5-7k on an engine that will never make more than 300hp. If I wanted to spend that kind of money, I could buy a 12 valve, and do a complete swap with 5 speed. I would rather find a good used block, stud it, give it some fuel and a turbo, and make 230-250hp and continue to tinker with it.
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Or get a GEP takeout and be done with it. :cool:
 
On a side note, oil cooler and lines were installed at the shop today. Thanks again Leroy.
 
Got it back same day, Tuesday, but it has since developed a leak where one of the lines goes into the cooler. Dropping it back off today for inspection.
 
Got it back from the shop, was told it was a leaky connection, retightened and now not leaking. Ill check under in the morning.
 
Okay well let's get back on the horse here. Its been awhile since I've done much of anything to the truck. The oil cooler is leak-free and works great! I took the truck out to PA and back last weekend, did about 800mi round trip, some long hills in NY and PA slowed me down considerably, and I could watch the gauge and see the oil getting hot, pressure dropping, then cooling off and pressure coming back up. All in all very satisfied.

My long-term goal is still a fairly well built DB2/NV4500 setup, but that is a ways off due to reality setting in with $ and time constraints. So, in the meantime, I will be running a Heath ECM. I called and ordered today, gave my VIN, mods, what I use the truck for, etc. I was told that the HX tune is a fairly hot one, but that it would be safe to run without studs. I specified that I do not have studs and that I don't want to blow it up (yet). Said that it will be a bit smokey down low, but will have a nice top end, and have good drivability which is what I want since this truck is 90% DD, 10% light towing, maybe even 95/5. The ECM should be here in about a week and a half, so I am optimistic it will make it here for the second weekend in May, though that is only optimistic. I chose to keep my stock ECM for diagnostic reasons and just in case. Also, I opted to not go with their turbomaster (they do make one for an HX) because I am confident in my ability to adjust the wastegate as needed. All said and done it was about $420 shipped, including me keeping my stock ECM.

Nothing else is in the works at this time, I put my 6" miter back on, which needs some paint. Boy is that sucker loud. It will probably come off fairly soon, but I am about to turn 20, so I am still young enough to be that dumb kid with the loud truck :)

I have a line on another used NV that would be removed from a running and driving truck, also with an engine, complete swap, yadda yadda for about $1200. That is awfully close to $1000 for a reman tranny with a warranty. Although, then I would still need a clutch (at least $500), pedals, etc. Weighing my options currently.

I am really excited about the tune, I think it will wake the truck up. Stay tuned.
 
You'll like the Heath tune w/what you have. I suggest you consider some type of CAC/IC for the near future before the manual trans conversion it will make the 6.5 very happy and you too.

The boneyard, CL or the bay would have complete conversion manual trans packages I see them often but a kit an be pieced together too.
 
If you've just been running a stock tune with your HX, then yeah, you're going to see a nice improvement with the tune. When I got my tune while still running the GM8 turbo it made a huge difference in the power the truck had and the way the truck felt so I think you'll be really happy with it. Congrats on the upgrade and can't wait to hear how you like it!

Hmmmm, a complete swap for $1200 is tempting. I don't recall, do you have another used NV already? If you do then I'd get this one knowing you have a spare waiting on the shelf for just in case. If you don't, I'd still think about it since you'd have everything you need and then you could save for that reman trans and put it in and save the used one on the shelf for just in case... I'm a big fan of getting a complete setup from a truck so you can get all the little, sometimes hard to find pieces all at once.
 
pacificdrumma said:
I have a line on another used NV that would be removed from a running and driving truck, also with an engine, complete swap, . . .
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If the donor is a 96+ and the seller does not mind sharing the VIN, PM it to me if you can. Am getting tired of surfing Craigs for a donor vehicle and will probably go the lazy route by waking into the dealership and buy new clutch stuff (pedal, brake pedal, cruise control switch, etc . . .). Having a good VIN will make ordering parts easier.
 
Ran into a bit of an issue tonight. In an effort to fix a persistent fuel leak, I removed the FRC10 to re-tape the fittings... What I found upon removing the feed fitting was a severe crack in the bowl. Fortunately, I still had my factory Carter pump. However, I had shortened and re-flared my stock lines to accommodate the FRC10, so I had to get creative with installing the OEM pump. A quick 10:30PM run to the local TA truck stop service dept. and I was in business with $25 worth of fittings. As it sits, the truck runs and doesn't leak, but my almost-new FRC10 is sitting on the bench. I talked to Leroy briefly, and he seemed to think that Walbro would not warranty it. I will be calling them Monday. At the very least, I will have them explain the warranty policy to the "T" so that I can weigh my options. Either 1) get another FRC10 and take my chances, 2) Holley black, 3) Raptor, or 4) say F-it and run the stock pump again.

And just days after dropping $4-- on the Heath ecm. Oh well, thats the way the cookie crumbles.
 
As I said I had just returned 4 pumps that Ive been sitting on for awhile for warranty. If you had contacted me last week I could have robed a bowl off one of those. I don't have any at this point.

The bowl is cracked/split like the fitting was tightened to tight. Pipe thread is a tapered thread, so the more you tighten it wedges in and will crack surrounding support/housing.
Post a picture of it.
Walbro may say something different, but I don't think they will warranty it.
 
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