Big T
Well-Known Member
Got it most of the way....
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Lift Pump Not Working, Where to Start
- Thread starter Big T
- Start date
Big T
Well-Known Member
Will L.
Well-Known Member
happy slappy chain. Run it. And hey- I see 3 bolts in place!
Big T
Well-Known Member
Yeah, lot easier to get the pump in this way. What was I thinking trying to do the short cut?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
It’s annoying but can save time. Risk/reward thing.
Big T
Well-Known Member
And it’s a no start. Did have fuel coming out of disconnected return line at the first injector on the drivers side. Had knocked off 2 return hoses with my fat hand. Cut and reinstalled but no go. I don’t have a 2nd person to crank the engine while I inspect as my wife left for Montana this am.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Injector lines loose at the injectors ? Might have to remove as many GPz as possible to het better cranking speed.
Thats what I had to do after replacing T chain/sprockets, injectors etc.
Thats what I had to do after replacing T chain/sprockets, injectors etc.
Big T
Well-Known Member
With fresh batteries and starter, it was cranking more than fast enough. Should have at least gotten a semblance of ignition. What would removing glows do? Crank faster to get fuel through the system?
smokymtn65
Well-Known Member
No to see if fuel vapor comes out the holes
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
It also helps purge the air out of the lines. Air compresses so the pressure in the cylinder will compress the air in the lines and act kinda like a spring. So by removing the pressure in the cylinder it makes it easier to push the air through the lines.
You might also consider plugging it in, extra heat never hurts
You might also consider plugging it in, extra heat never hurts
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
After I got done with the tuneup and timing chain components on My 6.5, it would not start.
Loosened the injector tubes from the injectors and cranked until there was fuel at the nuts, tightened down those couple, cranked some more until fuel emitted from a couple more, tightened down those, cranked a little more and the engine fired up, tightened down the rest of the nuts as fuel started emitting from those too.
It did require some patience and what I thought was a very long time of cranking before fuel began to emit from the first couple of injector fittings.
I did not totally remove the nuts from the injectors, just loosened them two or three turns then tapped on them and wiggled them to make sure that they broke seal. Just because the nuts are loosened does not mean that the injector line/tube is loose. It usually takes several taps on the tube to pop them free of the flange.
Loosened the injector tubes from the injectors and cranked until there was fuel at the nuts, tightened down those couple, cranked some more until fuel emitted from a couple more, tightened down those, cranked a little more and the engine fired up, tightened down the rest of the nuts as fuel started emitting from those too.
It did require some patience and what I thought was a very long time of cranking before fuel began to emit from the first couple of injector fittings.
I did not totally remove the nuts from the injectors, just loosened them two or three turns then tapped on them and wiggled them to make sure that they broke seal. Just because the nuts are loosened does not mean that the injector line/tube is loose. It usually takes several taps on the tube to pop them free of the flange.
One thing that helps is to move the throttle half or more open when trying to prime, the pump will push a lot more fuel than the idle setting will..
Big T
Well-Known Member
I have all the injector lines connected now.
Big T
Well-Known Member
OK I will crack injector lines and crank it. Mine was cranking faster than yours.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Just crack the easiest ones to get to. Once it starts pumping fuel from four or five fittings, the engine will start after the nutz is tightened down then the air will purge from the injectors that are not so accessible and it will then run on all eight.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Be sure to tap the pipes near the nuts so that the seal breaks on the flanges.
I have glow plugs out with injector nuts tight. This is why I get the fuel mist. With the mist I put the glow plugs back in and 3rd video it lights off. (Yeah those batteries burnt the side posts out internally two weeks later. So I put top post connectors on it.)
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
With air in the lines, I have had problems with the fuel compressing the air enough to blow the fuel through the injector. Thats why I always loosen the injector end of the line nuts.
That's why you have a problem bleeding the air . Take the glow plugs out , leave the lines tight and crank it over with your foot on the floor . It's the rpms that bleed the air . I did a 95 like WW did except all the glows were out . A lot of misting . He basically had the entire fuel system apart and that means air in everything . It's going to be a PIA to get all the air out . Hook up a battery charger and crank it .