I've decided to do a Cummin's conversion

[n8in8or]

I think somewhere in the middle - a roided up California beach bro.

 

[FellowTraveler]

I just located a 14 bolt FF w/disk brakes 3.73 from I think an 05 Silverado for a whopping $150 that is about half of what I need to replace the drum backing plates cylinders and all hardware damaged in the flood.

 

[Jaryd]

Nice find

 

[Scholioso]

Fellow Traveler, what will you be using for an alternator? I am debating on just using the dodge one & trying to wire it correctly or adapting like a CS144 onto the cummins.

Also, have you looked into making the grid heater work in conjunction with the key switch? I am currently doing this same swap on my 96 K3500. I removed all the 6.5 glow plug wiring & traced the glowplug solenoid wire back to the fuse box. I believe this thicker orange wire is what powers the glowplugs, but I am not sure. I will have to look at a diagram if I can find it.

Any other ideas or advice you've found on wiring/electrical, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

 

[FellowTraveler]

Fellow Traveler, what will you be using for an alternator? I am debating on just using the dodge one & trying to wire it correctly or adapting like a CS144 onto the cummins.

Also, have you looked into making the grid heater work in conjunction with the key switch? I am currently doing this same swap on my 96 K3500. I removed all the 6.5 glow plug wiring & traced the glowplug solenoid wire back to the fuse box. I believe this thicker orange wire is what powers the glowplugs, but I am not sure. I will have to look at a diagram if I can find it.

Any other ideas or advice you've found on wiring/electrical, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

I'm using the DENSO alternator w/remote regulator for now however; when I do my HVAC using a FUMMINS mid mount compressor mount I'll do a high output alternator and tap rpm signal from there.

I've pretty much pulled most of the harnesses and will be installing a painless harness in the end as I'm going full mechanical except for the 47RH OD/LU controller which if it ever fails I'll have back up toggle switches to manually activate OD/LU and if I have total electrical power failure the trans will revert to 3 speeds w/o damaging anything but mpg.

I'm using two momentary push buttons to the heating elements one for each element & when its real cold I'll hold both just a little bit. I've never had problems starting this 5.9 12 valve since owning it a few decades now it starts in freezing weather w/o grids too.

TACH is via a TINY TACH HOUR METER W/PM REMINDER it uses a transponder attached to an injector line.

 

[FellowTraveler]

OK! I fired up the Cummins 12 valve w/p7100 IP in SUBRUTUS 2 years 3 months & 5 days after the 6.5td drank lots of sea water. It runs & drives great the transmission shifts quick and firm but not too firm as to destroy u-joints, I don't have a youtube acct yet but soon I'll post a vid.

I do have a question for you pros; I have to remove the upper rivets 'one on each side' lowers are not the problem on the x-member that is right after the torsion bar x-member so I can remove the transmission w/t-case as a unit as opposed to installing the transmission w/o the case then fighting to install the t-case. SEE attached images of the tight area I have to work with "I need to somehow remove the bottom of the rivets so I can beat them up and out otherwise I'll need to lift the body off the chassis something I'm not equipped to do.

 

[n8in8or]

I wonder if you could get up in there with an extended reach right angle die grinder........something like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-...ed-extended-reach-air-cut-off-tool-64278.html

 

[snarl95]

air chisel the top off then drill it from the bottom

 

[Will L.]

I like both above answers. Would just add
I have had to heat and slightly bend the long air hammer bits in the past. Remember the longer the bit, and/or the more the bend, both loose hammering power.

if you can’t reach your drill in there you can get a bit extension, drop down from the top through the lower rivet hole, then attatch to drill. Or weld roundstock to the drillbit making it longer, but you’ll have to enlarge the lower hole to clear the welded joint.

I wish mag drills were cheap...

 

[FellowTraveler]

The approach to the lower part of the top 3/8" diameter rivets is angled so I'm thinking a long punch to indent it then have at it w/3/8" cobolt bit then hammer the hell out of it up and out however; the rivets expand in the hole as they are pressed from both ends....so I think it will need to drilled all the way through from bottom which will give an angled hole......man a lift would be handy right about now.

 

[snarl95]

right angle drill and a stubby bit?

 

[Will L.]

1/4 lbs of c4 ought to do it...

 

[FellowTraveler]

1/4 lbs of c4 ought to do it...

Way too much for the mission at hand.........

 

[Will L.]

No kill like over kill.
Let us know when you get it.

 

[Husker6.5]

Gas wrench!

 

[FellowTraveler]

Well, over the past few days I have been doing shakedown runs with the lockup and overdrive disconnected from Comp Mini controller and already have to get with the Comp Mini tech about some interesting issues.

The trans works fine in three gears however the controller came with a hot rod gasser tune as default which isn't diesel friendly. I've been tinkering with it and get to a point in which when I decelerate the trans dumps into 2nd from 3rd like I had engaged an exhaust brake weird however I suspect its something I did with tweaking the settings "I'll call Comp later today."

Anyway, the 5.9 12 valve idles just under 700 rpm's and runs great and the B&M coolers keep the trans Temps @ 120 deg f max running fast in 3rd gear. Interesting it starts with just one battery but I'm running two and plan on an isolator for them.

Running open downpipe but waiting on an FTE swirl core resonator to install just after the downpipe, everything I've read about it being installed just after the down-pipe is excellent for eliminating drone and other nasty resonance in the exhaust, I'll be ceramic coating the FTE both inside and out before install.

 

[n8in8or]

Running open downpipe but waiting on an FTE swirl core resonator to install just after the downpipe, everything I've read about it being installed just after the down-pipe is excellent for eliminating drone and other nasty resonance in the exhaust, I'll be ceramic coating the FTE both inside and out before install.

Good to hear you're at a point where you're doing shakedown runs!

I've been running an FTE 4" x 30" resonator/muffler on my Tahoe for 5 years now. It tames the exhaust note and I have never had any drone. I painted mine with DEI high-temp silicone exhaust paint and it is still holding up well in my climate.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Good to hear you're at a point where you're doing shakedown runs!

I've been running an FTE 4" x 30" resonator/muffler on my Tahoe for 5 years now. It tames the exhaust note and I have never had any drone. I painted mine with DEI high-temp silicone exhaust paint and it is still holding up well in my climate.

I can't wait to get it installed....the exhaust I have is stainless but low grade that held up well until the sea water ingress I drilled the lower sections of the exhaust pipes and muffler and flushed it with tap water and salt neutralizer then took my shop vac to blower side and left it blowing through the system for a few days. however: I'll determine if I need to replace it soon or not after everything is back together.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I always set the idle speed on the p7100 to 700-720 in nuetral. Set them much lower and they can stall in parking lot conditions where you're on and off the throttle.

 

[FellowTraveler]

I always set the idle speed on the p7100 to 700-720 in nuetral. Set them much lower and they can stall in parking lot conditions where you're on and off the throttle.

FERM as always thanks for your input.