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One owned by British Army Special Forces (SAS) troops. Right Hand Drive, so it drives on the wrong side of the road, right @Will L. and @Paveltolz ?!?
As soon as he said straight axle swap I realized that I really did have a brain fart. I had a 1990 Toyota straight axle swapped truck and I loved it. It rode better than my 81 Chevy 4x4. The weight difference had a lot to do with it probably. It wasn't quite as stiff as the 81.
 
With the cummins I believe they say about 5-6" lift is minumum if you want any suspension travel. The lowest kit I've seen is 3.5", but they say it won't clear a cummins swap. And you couldn't get me to do a leaf spring swap. If I do one, it will be with an 05+ radius arm coil spring super duty axles. I would also consider a DODGE 4 link, but the CAD is a weak point, as well as there hub bearings(same size as ours), and the tiny ball joints they used.
I wonder what they mean by "won't clear a cummins swap?"
 
Well a 6.5 is 26" tall where as a cummins is 38" tall.
However, they mount at about the same height with the cummins pan being a few inches wider between the motor mounts......still wondering why the cummins is claimed to create clearance issues when going to SAS....
 
It had to do with oil pan clearance to the diff with the 32.5" wide axle. The 32.5" wide mounts brings the diff in closer to the center creating issues with pan clearance. I seen one with a small block, dana 44, and 36.5" wide perches, and they were able to get away with a 2.5" lift, but they said it didn't have much room for the axle to go up, and was really only meant for a daily driver with minimal off road action.
 
The hub bearing issue can be fixed with an aftermarket free-spin locking hub conversion that replaces the crap unit hub bearings with good old-fashioned repackable Timken bearings spaced out wider to carry the load better. There's a couple of manufacturers who make the conversion kits, just look in the ads in the back of DieselPower.
I've seen those kits as well, and most of the reviews I read on them said the DODGE version was very limited by the size of the spindle arm as to how big of a bearing you could use. And that still leaves you with the small ball joints that Dodge had put in there dana 60's compared to Ford's. You can buy rebuildable ball joints, but I believeit will run you closeto $600 for a set of 4 for the heavy duty version, $1400 for the light duty hub bearing replacement setup, and you've just put $2K into a Dodge Dana 60 to make it as strong as the Ford Dana 60. You can normally pick up a set of 05+ dana 60/10.5" sterling axles with 3.73 gears with the radius arms, springs, and mounts for $1500-1800. Swap your 8x165mm wheels(8x6.5") to a set of 8x170mm 17" wheels, and you have a tighter turning radius, stout stock components you can get parts for anywhere, and huge 4 wheel disc brakes(hence the need for 17" wheels to clear the brakes). The Dodge axles can be had for well under a $1K and retain the stock lug pattern, but that's where there advantages end from my research.
 
I've seen those kits as well, and most of the reviews I read on them said the DODGE version was very limited by the size of the spindle arm as to how big of a bearing you could use. And that still leaves you with the small ball joints that Dodge had put in there dana 60's compared to Ford's. You can buy rebuildable ball joints, but I believeit will run you closeto $600 for a set of 4 for the heavy duty version, $1400 for the light duty hub bearing replacement setup, and you've just put $2K into a Dodge Dana 60 to make it as strong as the Ford Dana 60. You can normally pick up a set of 05+ dana 60/10.5" sterling axles with 3.73 gears with the radius arms, springs, and mounts for $1500-1800. Swap your 8x165mm wheels(8x6.5") to a set of 8x170mm 17" wheels, and you have a tighter turning radius, stout stock components you can get parts for anywhere, and huge 4 wheel disc brakes(hence the need for 17" wheels to clear the brakes). The Dodge axles can be had for well under a $1K and retain the stock lug pattern, but that's where there advantages end from my research.
As always FERM your the man great info indeed.........
 
I compared the 98 and back k2500 Burb chassis layout in the official GM C/K Upfitter Manual page 90 and only difference I have found is that my 99 8.6k+ chassis has an extra x-member behind the torsen bar x-member and torsen bar rating one step below the highest rated bar for K3500.
 
Yes and no. The GMT-400 platform was still available in 99 in 2500/3500 pickups, tahoe, yukon's, and suburban's. BUT GM was rolling out the newer GMT-800 platform in 99 in the 1500/2500 pickups(yes, GM offerred 2 completely different 3/4 ton pickups for 99), and all the SUV's. So most catalogs stop at 98 for the GMT-400 platform, and pick up 99+ as the GMT-800, but there was GMT-400 platform vehicles available all the way into 00, so it is up to you to know the difference.
 
I compared the 98 and back k2500 Burb chassis layout in the official GM C/K Upfitter Manual page 90 and only difference I have found is that my 99 8.6k+ chassis has an extra x-member behind the torsen bar x-member and torsen bar rating one step below the highest rated bar for K3500.
They all have that extra cross member, my 95 has that extra cross member in it, and my 95 also has the same torsion bars in it verified by RPO code. There is no difference between your 99 and a 98 of the same platform. The confusion comes in because of the switch over from GMT-400 to GMT-800, and both being available in the same years. It was the same from 88-91 with the square body trucks and SUV's being sold alongside the new GMT-400 trucks.
 
Back to the subject of how much lift is needed, do some reading on the EXCURSION built from 99-02, or any of them up to 05 for that matter. FORD tried making them sit 2 inches lower than the super duty pickups to target the soccer moms. Well it made for some HORRENDOUS driving characteristics in them with many people calling them down right scary. FORD ended up going to squishy bump stops in the front like TIMBRENS because they spent so much time on the bumpstops. 99-02 had roughly 2 inches before hitting the bumpstops while 03-05 had 3/4" before hitting the stops in the front. It made for horrible bump steer, jerking wheel if one side hit the bump stops and not the other, wandering all over the road in the grooves down the hwy, and so on and so on. Putting a set of truck springs in them took care of most all the issues, but lifted them up an additional 2-2 1/2 inches.
 
Yes and no. The GMT-400 platform was still available in 99 in 2500/3500 pickups, tahoe, yukon's, and suburban's. BUT GM was rolling out the newer GMT-800 platform in 99 in the 1500/2500 pickups(yes, GM offerred 2 completely different 3/4 ton pickups for 99), and all the SUV's. So most catalogs stop at 98 for the GMT-400 platform, and pick up 99+ as the GMT-800, but there was GMT-400 platform vehicles available all the way into 00, so it is up to you to know the difference.
I had the new body style 99' with 6.0 for a couple years. Didn't realise they made both till I had to buy parts. Needless to say I was confused at first. [emoji27]
 
They all have that extra cross member, my 95 has that extra cross member in it, and my 95 also has the same torsion bars in it verified by RPO code. There is no difference between your 99 and a 98 of the same platform. The confusion comes in because of the switch over from GMT-400 to GMT-800, and both being available in the same years. It was the same from 88-91 with the square body trucks and SUV's being sold alongside the new GMT-400 trucks.
Now this is interesting, the images in the GM upfitter manual of the suburban chassis are missing that extra member so that's where I was misled again thanks for being on to of it, good info.
 
Back to the subject of how much lift is needed, do some reading on the EXCURSION built from 99-02, or any of them up to 05 for that matter. FORD tried making them sit 2 inches lower than the super duty pickups to target the soccer moms. Well it made for some HORRENDOUS driving characteristics in them with many people calling them down right scary. FORD ended up going to squishy bump stops in the front like TIMBRENS because they spent so much time on the bumpstops. 99-02 had roughly 2 inches before hitting the bumpstops while 03-05 had 3/4" before hitting the stops in the front. It made for horrible bump steer, jerking wheel if one side hit the bump stops and not the other, wandering all over the road in the grooves down the hwy, and so on and so on. Putting a set of truck springs in them took care of most all the issues, but lifted them up an additional 2-2 1/2 inches.
Good to know this could very well be the issue with lower suspension on SAS on a Burb too, thanks........
 
The GM upfitter info was always missing stuff. I worked off it for years when doing truck equipment stuff, and tried submitting corrections frequently. Finally gave up after 6 months of flack.
How would you know what was missing? You didn't design it.... Lol. Some people won't except help even if they're wrong. [emoji15]
 
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