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Intake Manifold and Valve Covers

Big T said:
Ted ran all the good stuff, yet he still blew his engine.
Click to expand...
Fact check:
1. 2010...Ted didn't 'blow his engine.' The builder, Jamie Avante of Diesel Depot used a substandard main bearing which failed and took out the crank. Motor was still running, poorly, when it was taken off line.
2. 2013 That motor, now with new scat crank, rods and pistons is in my truck.
3. Picture of the Harland Sharp rockers was taken in 2015, in his replacement, near stock, motor. The upgrade to HS was after he lost the rocker button on #6 in Wyoming. He upgraded to HS rockers so it wouldn't happen again.
 
I was joking about the roller rockers. That engine is too tired to justify that expense. Even bough in theory that is something that could be swapped to a new engine, I've seen rockers get damaged when old engines grenade. You could do it, but I would hold off until you do he build for a replacement engine in another 60k miles. I figure in Cali you all put on more miles than most- and I know climbing that mountain it wears a bit more also.
 
Paveltolz said:
Fact check:
1. 2010...Ted didn't 'blow his engine.' The builder, Jamie Avante of Diesel Depot used a substandard main bearing which failed and took out the crank. Motor was still running, poorly, when it was taken off line.
2. 2013 That motor, now with new scat crank, rods and pistons is in my truck.
3. Picture of the Harland Sharp rockers was taken in 2015, in his replacement, near stock, motor. The upgrade to HS was after he lost the rocker button on #6 in Wyoming. He upgraded to HS rockers so it wouldn't happen again.
Click to expand...

He texted me that he "blew" the engine towing heavy up a grade in Colorado and he was dumping it cheap. That was the last I heard from him. So did you buy Ted's truck?
 
Ah, yes, my bad. That was the replacement engine (no good stuff) to the one I got. Turned out he lost the number 6 hole due to the rocker retainer fail...limped it in to my place from Laramie WY with oil changes every 200 miles, made the repair here, finished the trip (K-2500 truck on his trailer) and when he got home, he did the upgrade to the Harland Sharp. Nah, I didn't buy it. Last year he sold the whole rig, truck and trailer to a guy in the area with a dead Ford.
Back to your situation... like Will said, with 210K miles on the clock, you might want to consider the cost to, well Bang ratio and save the upgrade for the replacement motor. I'm betting we'd all be surprised what we find, 'while we're in there' if we pulled valve covers on 200K plus motors.
 
Paveltolz said:
Ah, yes, my bad. That was the replacement engine (no good stuff) to the one I got. Turned out he lost the number 6 hole due to the rocker retainer fail...limped it in to my place from Laramie WY with oil changes every 200 miles, made the repair here, finished the trip (K-2500 truck on his trailer) and when he got home, he did the upgrade to the Harland Sharp. Nah, I didn't buy it. Last year he sold the whole rig, truck and trailer to a guy in the area with a dead Ford.
Back to your situation... like Will said, with 210K miles on the clock, you might want to consider the cost to, well Bang ratio and save the upgrade for the replacement motor. I'm betting we'd all be surprised what we find, 'while we're in there' if we pulled valve covers on 200K plus motors.
Click to expand...

Now that I have a new rocker in hand, all the rockers have shined wear spots on them. Just the two had rougher ones where the valve seemed like it punched it a bit.

I've been cleaning up everything while I'm waiting for the 2nd rocker. Cleaned up the mess in the valley, though I can't get all the way under the injection pump. Did find a bolt with 15mm head in the back of the valley. Maybe a previous drop from doing the FTB mod?

Glad I did the rocker retainer buttons, as over half of them broke off from being brittle. The new ones don't do that. They sell the rockers with, or without a retainer button, for like a $0.50 difference.

This AM I'll put the exhaust back together, connecting the down pipe. Also cut and install a new connecting hose for the turbo drain line. Then I give it a break and go visit my mother (she has cancer and is in hospice).
 
OK the second valve rocker arrived. Attached pic shows the following:

Left = regular wear that leaves a shine spot.
Middle = brand new rocker.
Right = rocker with some abnormal wear. Valve stem punching into rocker.

Engine has 210K miles. That the valve was punching into the rocker leads me to believe that there was too much play or slop there.
 

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I liked the 'normal wear,' new, and 'abnormal wear' picture you sent me today. I'm reposting the picture with the orientation changed to horizontal. Hope you don't mind.
IMG_6197.JPG
Kinda reminded me of Young Frankenstein with Marty Feldman Brain shopping, Normal, New, A B Normal.... Sorry, long day, no sleep last night.
That really made things obvious. Glad you caught it and the cost was as low as it was, money wise. Sure takes a lot of time waiting on parts now and again.
 
I don't know what to think, which is why I posted here. The wear is "abnormal", but it's not something I'm overly concerned about. Most of my experience
Is with overhead cam engines, though my old air cooled VW bigs had push rods and so don't my boat diesel engines. It did have a feint tick, but I never really thought much of that. Otherwise, this engine has been gold. Maybe new rockers cleans that up? I know some Harland Sharps would clean it up.

Thanks Paul for flipping the picture. Don't know how to do that from the iPhone. I will put the straight edge to it when I work on it tomorrow. It will be back together tomorrow. I will also take out the quick disconnect on the heater line to crossover and do that mod while I have it apart. Then the next big thing will be the GMT 800 brake conversion project for both Colby's '94 and this '99 K2500 Suburbans.
 
The reason for the straight edge is that a good valve job should have all the valve stems the same height. If you throw a straight edge on there the valves in ? Should be the same height if not it would be indicative of how much the stems have worn
 
Paveltolz said:
FWIW, To get at the injection lines, I have a sacrificial box end wrench (12pt) with a gap cut out of it to allow it to go over the lines.
Click to expand...

I made a special socket for the lower lines:



00-socket.jpg 00-socket2.jpg
00-socket3.jpg

Use(d) mine on my 6.2 engine, I suppose there's about as much room (or lack of) on 6.5 deez motors, , ,
It works really well, , ,

-corne-
 
ak diesel driver said:
The reason for the straight edge is that a good valve job should have all the valve stems the same height. If you throw a straight edge on there the valves in ? Should be the same height if not it would be indicative of how much the stems have worn
Click to expand...

I did this and there were gaps, but with 210K miles on the engine, I'd expect that.
 
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